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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 12, 2013 22:10:01 GMT -5
My corvair engine really stands out... No, I mean it really does. I want to cover up that big gaping hole at the rear of my GT. I could use some ideas. Brainstorming. Attachments:
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 12, 2013 22:11:49 GMT -5
I picked up an engine cover (thanks to Bob's ad on the Bradley GT website) however it won't fit given the motor really stands out. Attachments:
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 12, 2013 22:15:44 GMT -5
Working with the engine cover I picked up, I thought I might cut out a hole for the portions of the engine that really stick out. Attachments:
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 12, 2013 23:08:04 GMT -5
I personally don't like holes. Why not make cuts to expand the cover out and fill in the gaps with fiberglass.
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Post by whcgt on Feb 13, 2013 5:21:02 GMT -5
Pretty easy just to cut & section/lengthen the Bradley GT rear body area. Just mark an accurate line along the sides & upper rear area, ahead of the rear lip spoiler. Then die grind the line & cut the entire rear body area off. The only thick areas are the bulkheads. Anyhow, cut through those areas, then get some sheetmetal steel. Feather back the fiberglass on the remaining rear body piece & the body cutline. Then fiberglass in the sheet steel, extending the length of the rear body as far as is needed. Then do your finishing layers of fiberglass work , then gelcoat the area & sand & paint. Please do wait for decent weather & temperatures. As fiberglass work is temperature sensative, to cure up correctly. The 1st generation Bradley GT is not exactly a compound curve nightmare in the rear body area. It is pretty slab sided & simple, with a little bit of curvature. You can do this work, I know you can. Then your engine will fit nicely within the body.
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 13, 2013 9:18:52 GMT -5
Whcgt....a questions on your repair technique: 1. Why gelcoat before paint? Seems like a waste of time. Lay the glass down, shape, finish with filler, shoot a hi build poly primer and paint. Why would you add gelcoat if you plan on painting?
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 13, 2013 12:59:39 GMT -5
I personally don't like holes. Why not make cuts to expand the cover out and fill in the gaps with fiberglass. I apprecate the ideas. Extending the body would be the the nicest end result. As I am not that experienced with major body modifications and don't want to really mess up, I think I will try expanding the engine cover out over the engine components. I agree that just a hole would look almost as bad, as the alternator and oil filter are not a really attractive view sticking out of the engine cover. If I mess up the engine cover, that is easier to replace or redo than messing up the body. Appreciate the thoughts and input.
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 13, 2013 13:03:38 GMT -5
You may surprise yourself on how successful you can be with fiberglass. Its a very easy material to work with.
Supplies are readily available and re-doing things over and over is really no big deal.
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 13, 2013 16:37:07 GMT -5
I need to make cuts only as large as needed for a balanced pop out on the engine cover. I may want to consider air flow as well. In So. California we have lots of warm days and good air flow will be essential too. I also need to keep in mind where the License plate will attach. Can't have a nice engine cover and dorky License plate location. I will need to run electrical to light it up as well.
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Post by smyrnaguy on Feb 14, 2013 16:28:00 GMT -5
How about adding to the engine cover at the top and sides, making it more box-like?
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 14, 2013 17:25:45 GMT -5
How about adding to the engine cover at the top and sides, making it more box-like? That was actually my first idea. I considered just making my own box, like a rectangular extension. I mocked it up out of cardboard and did not like the appearance. Then I tried just using some flat pieces cut out so the engine stuck out with the sides and top enclosed. Just did not look right. That oil filter sticks out the most and just needs to be hidden from view. I gave up on my limited ideas and purchased a Bradley engine cover and I want to keep as much of it in appearance as possible. I am going to try to make a center small rectangle cut out and box it to cover the engine. Will post photos as I make progress. Might take a few trys to get it right
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Post by skip20 on Feb 14, 2013 18:20:20 GMT -5
Using the stock cover, cut out what you want with a jig saw w/metal blade. Go to a sheet metal or A/C shop & ask them to bend up a piece of thin sheet with the spacing you need with 90 degrees bend on each sides. I would slope the top down to shed water & fill in the sides. Leave the bottom open for cooling. Use pop rivets to mount to body cover the to you cut out. You can fiberglass if you want or just paint it with spray cans.
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 15, 2013 9:46:27 GMT -5
Using the stock cover, cut out what you want with a jig saw w/metal blade. Go to a sheet metal or A/C shop & ask them to bend up a piece of thin sheet with the spacing you need with 90 degrees bend on each sides. I would slope the top down to shed water & fill in the sides. Leave the bottom open for cooling. Use pop rivets to mount to body cover the to you cut out. You can fiberglass if you want or just paint it with spray cans. Now that is a great idea, an A/C shop works with sheet metal all the time to fabricate connections and flashings for installing ducting. They would have the tools to fabricate the entire bump out and I could attach my cut out piece to the end keeping the appearance of the engine cover intact. The bottom being open keeps the air flowing.
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 15, 2013 9:50:50 GMT -5
Now you know why that Skip20 guy is one of our five star generals with 13 Karmas and the G-d title!!
That boy sure does think on his feet!!!
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 15, 2013 11:26:37 GMT -5
I guess its just me but I like to do as much in house as possible.
I would cut the hatch up and use duct tape, cardboard, wax paper, resin and glass to get the shape I want. The cost is low, its so much easier then trying to convince soem HVAC guy to bend up something for a car, and you can learn alot.
Just my 2 cents worth.
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Post by smyrnaguy on Feb 15, 2013 14:41:26 GMT -5
I had a corvair 140 engine in my Kellison GT40 years ago and had to modify the engine cover to fit. I cut some panels out of a derelict boat and glassed them to the cover. I sloped them to each side and at the top. When I was done only a purist could tell the difference. It looked great if I may pat myself on the back. Sorry no picks. It was 1980.
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 15, 2013 17:29:21 GMT -5
While having an A/C shop fabricate some sheet metal would be a quick and easy process, jspbtown has a point... its about building it yourself. It is the process and small victories along the way that bring pleasure not to mention some pride when you get it running and on the road. I am going to do a mock up from stuff I have laying around, like chicken wire
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 15, 2013 17:47:22 GMT -5
Use anything you want to form the shape. Cover it with wax paper so you can release it from the glass.
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Post by eieio79 on Feb 15, 2013 22:26:21 GMT -5
Big Bird: I have used 2 part polyurathane foam and shaped it with a rasp and coarse sandpaper into the shape I want, fiberglass over and once the part is finished used a wire brush to remove the foam from the inside leaving a hollow fiberglass shell. And your car looks really cool. Bob N. in Benson.
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 16, 2013 22:26:48 GMT -5
Have measured out the area I need to open the engine cover, made the cut. Using aluminum flat rods I have made a basic framework moving the cut out away from the cover. Attachments:
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 16, 2013 22:30:02 GMT -5
I used some chicken wire to form out walls and next will fit it over the engine to see where else I may need to cut or trim. I figure I should have a good idea what I need space wise before starting to fiberglass it in. Still need to make a few minor adustments. Attachments:
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 17, 2013 11:24:54 GMT -5
Make sure you properly prep the section of the fiberglass panel to accept the new glass.
Personally I would lay up a couple of layers of cloth to get the basic shape, let it dry, scuff it real good (40 grit) and then finish with matt.
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Post by skip20 on Feb 17, 2013 13:28:47 GMT -5
Thought you didn't want to do Fiberglass!
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 24, 2013 0:31:00 GMT -5
It seems like I can manage the pop out... I just didnt want to tackle a whole body extension. Gotta start somewhere. After looking at Batdudes website it kinda makes one want to give it a try I have worked on my El Camino but thats not fiberglass Attachments:
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 24, 2013 0:33:58 GMT -5
Did some body work and made it look nice. Attachments:
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 26, 2013 23:21:42 GMT -5
Final fitting of box/engine cover before I start to fiberglass it in. Had to make several adjustments of positioning the distance top and bottom, and making it square. I placed the licence plate and light as well to be sure I did not overlook anything. next - start laying out the mat and build up the wall thickness. Attachments:
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 27, 2013 9:46:17 GMT -5
Are you going to use different hinges?
Be sure to properly prep the existing glass so the new material bonds correctly.
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Feb 27, 2013 13:18:33 GMT -5
The engine cover came with this type of hinge, the six holes drilled in the cover countersunk somewhat to allow a more flush appearance for the screws/nuts. I thought of other hinge options, however, with the corvair engine pushing up against the rear body I really lack room for bolting/screwing the engine cover to the body. These hinges actually provide an answer to that problem. They attach much higher, where the fiberglass is built up thicker and gives more strength to hold the weight of the cover. Part of the problem of placement of the hinges is that the carburator linkage buts right up against the inside of the body near the opening. It blocks the area. The photo attached shows an example of the linkage and the rotating bar that goes between the carbs. This is the same setup that I have. That linkage bar is up against the body right at the engine opening. Thanks for the reminder to properly prep the fiberglass Attachments:
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Mar 7, 2013 17:40:05 GMT -5
Who told me that working with fiberglass would be eazy... the smell of the resin alone is awful. My first attempt at building the box pop out for the engine cover was a failure. The walls were not straight and sagged inward hitting the alternator and distrib cap. I am going to give it one more try and if not successful its sheet metal. Or maybe just double layers of chicken wire, I have lots of that laying around.
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Post by skip20 on Mar 7, 2013 18:03:01 GMT -5
Use heavy card board & cover with Alum Tape found in the air duct section of hardware store, brace it with wood glued to the inside it needer, or sheet metal NOT chicken wire, . I think you would want to extend the sides of the whole door. Use 1.5oz Mat or 8oz choth. Juct soak the resin, don't drown it. Have all the mat ripped (NOT CUT) to basic size for the whole lay up. Lay up 3-4 layer of mat one time. If you stop, will need to sand it. Sand the gel coat off about 3-4 " where the mat will go & each layer should be 1-2 " longer the the last one. You will be able to put the card board off when cured. Go 2-3" past the edge you want for the body & trom it to fit after it's cured. Sorry lost all the pictures on my post as ther way ALOT of fiberglassing info there.
PS: all corner MOST BE ROUNDED OVER 1/8" - 1/4" for the mat/cloth will fold over
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