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Post by skip20 on Aug 16, 2012 17:09:57 GMT -5
Batt. bracket is finished & painted. All welded with edges sanded & rounded over all of them.  Showing off '06 Ford Ranger before I rub out the paint job. Remember, it was Yellow, then Blue & now Honda Grey met. |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2012 5:44:24 GMT -5
Been working on the AC lines using what I have, so take some boring time tying to make things fit. So have a few pictures of the rear whit the body down.   |
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Post by dawgdk on Aug 17, 2012 9:31:50 GMT -5
Skip, You can use hardware cloth and paint it to match you can bend it to match the contour of the body and it would look nice when finished
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2012 12:34:59 GMT -5
Skip, You can use hardware cloth and paint it to match you can bend it to match the contour of the body and it would look nice when finished Thanks, but what is hardware cloth |
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Post by dawgdk on Aug 17, 2012 16:50:12 GMT -5
Hardware cloth is sheet metal that is perforated It's simular to the gutter guard but thicker. It can also come in differant patterns. Check it out online you can get it at any hardware store
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Post by skip20 on Aug 17, 2012 20:50:23 GMT -5
Hardware cloth is sheet metal that is perforated It's simular to the gutter guard but thicker. It can also come in differant patterns. Check it out online you can get it at any hardware store So that's hardware cloth!  I always thought that was Holly Metal, remember this is "god" |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 19, 2012 16:40:42 GMT -5
God here !  Took most of the weekend off from the Bradley. But this afternoon did get the Rad Water inlet to pump started. It's the silver pipe in the picture.  Need to find a hose from the pump to the pipe, but everything else is setup, but not painted yet. This was not cheap! $80.00 tube bender, on sale + 20% off $15.00 for the pipe $45.00 3 - hoses & 6 - cramps Will weld the dimple on the ends & paint them Yellow later. |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 20, 2012 13:15:10 GMT -5
Top & bottom of the rad cooling lines are finished. Went though the rear end instead of over it. Again painted yellow to match the top & no rusty pipes later.  |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 20, 2012 17:26:06 GMT -5
Started to work on the rear firewall. This is plywood. Will be glassing the front & rear of the panel to seal it. There will also be a seal lip for the center cover. Then it will be glassed to the body.Well then be able to bolt to the roll bar for mount support on the body.   You need to be a Jack-of-All-Trade to build a kit car this way.  |
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 20, 2012 22:41:42 GMT -5
Dear Jack-of-All-Trade,
you better watch out!
When Skip be comin home from the auto parts yard
and sees what you done with his car
he gonna be hoppin' ass mad!
Goin and puttin all that wood in his nice car!!
tsk tsk tsk!
I sure wouldn't want to be in your shoes Jack
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Post by skip20 on Aug 21, 2012 7:57:43 GMT -5
Dear Jack-of-All-Trade, you better watch out! When Skip be comin home from the auto parts yard and sees what you done with his car he gonna be hoppin' ass mad! Goin and puttin all that wood in his nice car!! tsk tsk tsk! I sure wouldn't want to be in your shoes Jack  |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 22, 2012 16:05:27 GMT -5
No luck at all at 4 different junk yards  A little hard getting my butt in gear, but have been doing a few small things, like finishing hosing up the AC to engine. And a lot of coffee & brain power! Thinking of putting the Mustang side scoops on the rear lower rocker panel. These are the open ones, so will be able to get air to the engine. Here a picture showing the molds I made for these.  What they look like finished.  Also thinking of doing the body work on the rear of the yellow one & make a mold of it for the Firebird/Trans Am tail lights & trunk w/ lid. Then put in on the White one.  Would nee to figure out air flow for the rad with these lights. |
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Post by 48flatbed on Aug 22, 2012 23:41:40 GMT -5
Skip, nice work going on on the white one. I am sure you will figure something out for the airflow. I dont know how the firebird tail-lights are made but maybe you could cut them in half using only the outer portion and then make a grille for the center. You could paint it black to sort of look like the lights. Jon
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Post by trimagnum on Aug 23, 2012 2:09:21 GMT -5
Could you make the tail lights a floating design ? A uniform gap all around with the light housing "floating" in the center. The gap wouldn't need to be huge to provide the venting area needed.
Rich
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 23, 2012 14:08:11 GMT -5
Now look here Mr.Skip,
you got these guys making all kinds of suggestions for you
and while yer runnin around to all those junk yards,
why not let this guy Jack (the ones who's puttin all the wood in yer car)
take care of the loose ends and you get busy and finish this thing
I mean that's what we're paying you for!
Now get back to work!
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Post by skip20 on Aug 25, 2012 12:06:39 GMT -5
OK, been goofing off past few days. Firewall is giving me headaches. But the Rat Rod CHEAP ass coil over shocks came in yesterday, soooooo! 1st they don't fit! 1/2" bolt to mm. So I knocked out the bolt bushing in the stock shock & cleaned off all of the rubber. Drilled out the one on the new shock & pushed in the mm bushing. Sound easy, huh?  Then had to do a little mod to the lower A-arm mount to fir the spring cup, moving the assy to the rear a bit to clear A-arm. Both the top bolt in with the mount will use to weld in. Will weld a thick wall 2"x3" tubing to the top of the front cradle to weld the upper shock mount. Will need to trim the wheel well to clear the 2"x3" tubing. Problem is the spring are 200lbs I think & may be to strong for the light front end.  More to come after my break. |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 25, 2012 14:53:19 GMT -5
OK, right side is done, Left side may be a little easier as I think I know what to do.  Trimmed the wheel well frame for the 2"x3" tubing to fit.  |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 25, 2012 21:02:50 GMT -5
Well I was right, got the other shock mount in less the 1.5 hours.
She is now standing on her own legs ( tires ).
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Post by cocacoladodge on Aug 26, 2012 12:22:23 GMT -5
That yellow paint you like using on your parts, is that the "Daytona Yellow" high heat engine paint you find in cans at autozone?
As an observation, with the much added power I assume the subru has over vw, wouldn't the extra 200 lbs on the front end be a good thing to help keep the nose down and give better handling in the long run? I just know my gt would loose feel around 65 (before my brakes began giving me issues, I'm not crazy enough to do it now...) so I now I need more weight in front with only a 1500 in it.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 26, 2012 15:06:13 GMT -5
The other VW that starts with a "P" had lead weight in the from bumper.
The gas tank will be up front & maybe the Batt.
The paint is Rust-oleum. Hope it will hold up on the top pipes, bottom should be ok.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 26, 2012 20:19:39 GMT -5
The front of mine has the battery, heater core, master cyl, vacuum cannister and hanging off the lower torsion tube is a 12x22x2 inch 1/8" steel tray that contains about 80 lbs of lead wheel weights and filled with cement. Works great.
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Post by skip20 on Aug 28, 2012 20:08:43 GMT -5
Been have knee problems, so not working on the Bradley GT II
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Post by skip20 on Aug 29, 2012 17:00:48 GMT -5
Can't do much with this bum knee, so waxed the 2 scoop molds & laid up 3 layer of mat on each & rolled them out to get any bubbles out & extra resin. Tomorrow will pop them off, re-wax & laid one more set in case anybody wants them as long as the molds are out. PM me for info.  |
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 29, 2012 18:09:26 GMT -5
hope you Feel better Skip, knees are the worst!
Maybe try shooting in some WD-40?
All the best Heal Quick!
Mike
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Post by skip20 on Aug 30, 2012 5:09:53 GMT -5
Popped out the 2 Mustang side scoops, slipped out like butter. Applied 1 wax & buffed. Ripped up some more mat & did 3 layer on each mold. Will trim the 1st one's this afternoon. Going back to bed!   Will be showing how to mount to the rear rocker panels on the GT II Already did a post for them on the GT. Found it way over on page 11. bradleygt.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=354 |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 30, 2012 10:42:36 GMT -5
Here they are trimmed & the scoop hole out out. Still to do the drilling holes.  A rare find, These Mustang scoops are OPEN, they are blocked most the time. They dumped into the rear wheel will. If you looking for the scoop be sure to have a 9mm wrench & 1/4" drive socket. It's a pain in the butt to get them out also, rear seat needs to come out.   Here it's mounted in the driver side.   EST. place on the body of GT II  I know they fit as had them on the Yellow GT II before changing to the MR2 model.  |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 30, 2012 12:50:41 GMT -5
Step 1 on mounting the side scoop. Slowly cut the hole so the scoop area will clear the body. Hold the panel to the body & trace the outline, then slowly out, test fitting many time so not to cut out to much. This was done in steps. The plywood support will need to be cupped out to clear also, no to much.  |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 30, 2012 20:39:15 GMT -5
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Post by skip20 on Aug 31, 2012 11:13:53 GMT -5
OK, change my mind again! Moving the scoops up which makes more sense for my App. They will now be more in line with the engine & air intake. Slowing cut the hole for the scoop. Had to remove some of the plywood for clearance.  Then fitted the scoop in as best I could.  Then laid one layer of mat to hold it in.  When cured will take another look to see whats up with it. Most of the fiberglass support will be done on the inside. But the guy that assy. this Bradley undercoat everything, which I have to remove to do any glassing. Remember, these were made for the GT model. Nothing is easy when your have fun.  |
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Post by skip20 on Aug 31, 2012 13:35:48 GMT -5
It's now glassed in with 2 layer of mat.  After cured sanded it down & mix up some resin putty & filled in the low spot. Will glass of it later.  |
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