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Post by jspbtown on Jun 18, 2018 11:55:26 GMT -5
Let me dig around in my parts stash. I am heading out for business for the week right after I get out of work today so it won't be until the weekend.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 18, 2018 11:05:27 GMT -5
Did you try ebay?
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 18, 2018 10:27:29 GMT -5
Well...let me try to struggle through explaining one thought.... I like using things readily available (and often CHEAP) to find solutions. Things that don't have to mar surfaces whenever possible. So...my list of things needed: Resin and matt Epoxy adhesive 4 small wooden blocks Steel tube from local home improvement center (maybe 1/4", 3/8" or even 1/2" ID) 2 hitch pins of appropriate OD (Like this www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-x-1-3-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Cotter-Less-Hitch-Pin-815578/204276315)So take the wooden blocks and glue two at the upper corners of the rear gate on the body side. Glue two corresponding blocks onto the back side of the gate at the upper left and right sides. With hatch secured into the appropriate location, cut short segments of tube that bridge the two wooden blocks that you have already attached. Glue and fiberglass over the tubes and the blocks. Maybe some kitty hair to smooth the transition from the round tubes to the flat blocks and then matt & resin over that? Then cut each tube in half at the junction of the hatch and sides of the body. This ensures that they are perfectly aligned. Remove hatch and make sure they are fully secured at the hatch and the sides with more glass if appropriate. Using the removable hitch pins, this creates a new hidden hinge which can easily be removed by pulling the pins and totally removing the hatch for ease of working on the motor. I would also slide a thin nylon washer to keep the hatch centered and moving freely. On the Bradley I built I used locks like this: www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-5-8-in-Chrome-Drawer-and-Cabinet-Keyed-Cam-Lock-U-9941/100173693 to lock the hatch at the bottom. You can use two (one at each corner) or just one by using two sections of flat material to reach from the left and right sides (I might have pics if you need them) Is all that confusing?
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 7, 2017 11:19:17 GMT -5
Seems like a spot for a lot of dead air in that location. Plus what ever air would be moving there would be going right toward the passenger compartment which might make it awfully hot.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 30, 2017 18:17:20 GMT -5
Yes it "can" be done but it is labor intensive, expensive, and ultimately a waste of money. Its not just like bolting up a water cooled motor and off you go. There are LOTS of things that need to be worked out in spaces that really just don't exist.
Like I said...it can be done...but you will likely lose interest well before you finish it so don't spend too much $$.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 12, 2017 19:34:24 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 12, 2017 10:43:19 GMT -5
Well there are many ways but the easiest will be the doors.
Fiberglass doors = GT2 Plexiglass doors = GT
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 8, 2017 10:33:23 GMT -5
I have used everything from 6 circuit harnesses which are available on EBAY to 18 circuit harnesses (my Avenger build which has power windows and front and rear linear actuator assisted hoods).
Generally, since a Bradley GT is essentially a dunebuggy, people have been speaking well of the Rebel wiring harnesses. I have never used one but, like I said, others have spoken positively about it.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 3, 2017 9:39:04 GMT -5
Send them to jspbtown@aol.com and I will post them
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 30, 2017 8:58:19 GMT -5
Oh...you wanted "best price' not best pans.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 29, 2017 19:15:36 GMT -5
You really need to post pics. You will get lots of hits then. Follow the link Gary identified.
It might just be a Bradley GT that someone removed the roof section. Often times these are done in truly awful ways which causes the windshield frame to just drop.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 29, 2017 19:13:02 GMT -5
Welcome to the hobby. To answer your questions:
1. I like to build perimeter frame rails out of 1x2 or 1x3 stock and then install flat or dropped floor pans. A body lift or floor pan drop is really a good idea if you are over 6 feet tall. It also allows use to reposition the rear lip (it rises up along the back part of the tunnel bt a couple of inches) and that gives you a nice flat floor. 2. If you decide to go with stock pans I have heard the best pans come from Wolfsburg West. I do not have any experience with them personally but have heard this recommendation repeated often. 3. The pan VIN number will be located at the rear of the tranny tunnel just in front of the transmission coupler access plate.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 26, 2017 10:11:51 GMT -5
Consider Autozone for the alternator. Its about $80 and has a lifetime warranty
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 26, 2017 8:59:24 GMT -5
Its really hard to say. It could be a lot of things. Might be a piece of debris stuck to the fan. Might just be a loose fan nut. Could be a bad bearing on the alternator or maybe a wallowed out groove where the key goes into the fan mount or the alternator shaft. Might also be a wallowed out fan hole.
It should become obvious when you take it out as an assembly. Just take your time looking at things before you start disassembling. Look, remove one piece, look, remove another piece, look again.
And consider other parts stores other than Jbugs...I have found them very expensive
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 4, 2017 8:49:05 GMT -5
I believe Skip modified the windshield opening to fit a 280zx windshield.
Either way I am sure this is an abandoned project by now. I hope he didn't sink too much money into it before realizing the challenges.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 28, 2017 8:42:12 GMT -5
^^^Yes^^^
As a general rule of thumb....you should never have an open vacuum port. They should all be in use or capped.
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 20, 2017 12:15:36 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 30, 2017 22:44:53 GMT -5
Well what do you want out of the car? What are your plans for it? What is your mechanical skill level?
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 28, 2017 10:15:57 GMT -5
Unless you are very very short your best option is the Bradley seat. The sitting position in the Bradley is very reclined. The stock Bradley seats have the headrests tilted forward which makes driving the car much easier.
They can be recovered to look quite nice.
If you are tall I would also suggest either a body lift and/or a floor pan drop.
But generally speaking there are really very few factory seats that will work.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 30, 2017 10:26:10 GMT -5
Just use the "search" tab in the top blue box of the forum and you will easily find your answers.
The 280zx (I believe it must be the zx) windshield can be made to fit with modifications to the Bradley body. I know of no other alternative that has been discovered.
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Post by jspbtown on May 17, 2017 12:32:00 GMT -5
Sounds like fun and challenging as well.
Bodies are pretty much a dime a dozen. They are tight so it will probably be a challenge getting a good cage in there. What the plan for the suspension/steering/chassis set up?
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 22, 2017 7:27:47 GMT -5
Please post a link.
Individuals considering a product like this should be aware that they would be illegal for street use in many states.
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 22, 2017 7:25:12 GMT -5
I went to their site and could not see a "Universal Formed Windshield". Can you post a link?
Also, as kitcarguy already posted, many states would not accept this.
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 14, 2017 12:44:36 GMT -5
You found "many" people with "a windshield or two" for a GT2?
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Post by jspbtown on Mar 17, 2017 22:01:56 GMT -5
"I have heard that the windshield from a mid '60s corvette or a pinto may fit the Bradley+ = Yes...late 60's corvette fits a Bradley GT
"does the GT and the GT2 use the same windshield?" = No..the GT2 used a proprietary windshield made exclusively for the GT2. It is NOT from any production car.
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 12, 2017 17:29:52 GMT -5
Get a bare beam with Avis style adjusters already installed. Then just swap over everything you have. Replace parts that are old/worn
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 21, 2017 18:19:07 GMT -5
"So I see 3 solutions 1) Get a glass manufacturer to make a new run as suggested earlier. Expensive and hard to organize. 2) Get a aircraft or motorsports windscreen supplier to make a small run in Plexi-glass. Also expensive but much weight savings, may be some legal issues in some states. 3) Modify an existing production glass to fit. What about contacting a high end Hot Rod / Custom car shop. They are always moving rooflines around and needing to cut down glass. "
Pretty much...and those have been the solutions that have been identified for probably 10 years (or more) now.
None have worked to date....other than probably Skip's 280ZX approach.
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 20, 2017 10:08:50 GMT -5
It was made for Bradley Automotive specifically for the GTII. It was not used in any production car.
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 19, 2017 11:05:03 GMT -5
Agreed....The car has AC, looks pretty well done so I see it in the 45-$6k range. The rest is the booze induced Barrett-Jackson influence
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 10, 2017 9:34:18 GMT -5
I use photobucket.
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