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Post by mwilson on Jun 21, 2011 19:20:17 GMT -5
I needed top replace the pedal assembly because the brake pedal wouldn't return right away. I figured it was a bad spring. I called and talked with Cip1 and they didn't sell a replacement spring and I had to buy the whole enchilada. OK, by the looks of things it needed to be done anyway.
Removing the old wasn't too bad. Lots of rust and corrosion. Putting the new in was a little tricky, making sure the clutch pedal didn't flop down and lose connection with the cable. My wife helped by holding the clutch pedal in place while I connected the cable up in the rear. Even though the brake pedal works great, (so does the gas pedal), the clutch pedal wants to flop forward to the floor.
Do I have the clutch adjusted too tightly?
Did I miss a step in the installation?
Is there a way to set the pedal travel distance on the assembly?
BTW, it's an EMPI kit and just like all EMPI stuff I had to cut an area to be able to install the new gas pedal.
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Post by darrenz on Jun 21, 2011 20:18:28 GMT -5
I only had mine out knce but I think it gets stop by a piece that hits floor in front of assembly. Or. An weld a little tab. Do so
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Post by horen2tas on Jun 21, 2011 20:29:13 GMT -5
If the clutch pedal is flopping forward to the floor, it sounds like you lost the cable connection at the pedal. There is a small amount of adjustment with the pedal cluster forward and back by way of the 13mm bolt thru the floor that holds the stop plate for the brake and clutch, once that's set up then tighten the two 17 mm bolts that hold the cluster to the tunnel. It also helps if you haven't already to take out the driver's seat. If you have a VW manual there's an exploded view that show's where everything goes (including that little yoke clip for the master cylinder push rod)
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 21, 2011 21:07:52 GMT -5
Use a small zip tie and snug the cable onto the hook of the pedal assembly. That will keep if from falling off.
the small tab on the floor offers some adjustability but that keeps the pedal from falling back, not forward.
Most likely the cable came off the hook.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jun 21, 2011 21:27:52 GMT -5
I think what he means by " flops forward to the floor" he means it comes towards the seat and hits the floor. If this is the case then the floor mounted pedal stop tab is probably too low to effectively stop the pedal from coming towards the driver. It is probably worn from corrosion or it is too far towards the front of the car. Using a ziplock to hold the cable on is a great idea.
In the true sense of flopping forward {front is front} then the pedal would hit the firewall not the floor.
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Post by horen2tas on Jun 22, 2011 10:21:04 GMT -5
I installed this set-up using the extended version because my clutch and brake were too close together www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1087010For some reason I also need a slightly longer cable but I'm happy with the modification it solved the problem and it comes with its own pedal stop. Also has a youtube video to help with the install. Driver seat definitely has to come out. |
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 22, 2011 10:52:11 GMT -5
I like that! And I bet my size 12 shoes would too! Definitely going on my Deserter.
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Post by mwilson on Jun 22, 2011 21:24:38 GMT -5
Believe it or not the cable is still attached. My wife pushes on the clutch and I can see the cable in the back move - thank God! I'm getting too good at taking this pedal assembly out and in. BTW I LOVE the zip tie idea! Yes, by flopping forward I meant toward me and the seat (which I removed). I see the tabs on the bottom of the pedals but on the old pedals - tabs weren't necessary - probably rusted in place. : ) Another thing to consider is I'm using fiberglass pans which means there are no pedal stop pads. However, I bought this to fix it. www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-2170The only problem is it doesn't fit my 1967 chassis. The main hole is off by 1.5 inches. (Ok, a 1/4 inch is due to the body lift I installed) I do believe I can cut this and mount the pedal stop tab to the fiberglass to make the pedals work. I didn't realize there was so much of a difference between the chassis years. Thanks for all the advice. |
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Post by mwilson on Jun 22, 2011 23:26:34 GMT -5
After spending about an hour whittling down this metal piece it didn't work because it wouldn't fit under the pedals.
Here's what did work - a 2 1/4 inch piece of 2X4 wedged between the firewall and the tabs on the bottom backside of the pedals.
OK, probably not a permanent solution but what I need is something using those dimensions.
For the time being, I'm happy.
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