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Post by leonardabell on Jun 17, 2011 10:39:19 GMT -5
I have a leak inside the tunnel and dripping brake fluid out of the hole in front of the horns. Can this line be pulled and replaced? If so, what is the best way?
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 17, 2011 11:42:23 GMT -5
Normally the brake line does not run in the tunnel. They usually run along side the tunnel on the drivers side.
The fuel line does run inside the tunnel and it exits the tunnel through a hole in the left frame horn. Are you sure its a brake line leak?
If someone did run it in the tunnel it would be a pain to replace. I would either run it down the side of the tunnel inside the drivers compartment or run it under the car. I ran it under the car with my Manx and Avenger and its just fine.
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Post by leonardabell on Jun 17, 2011 12:26:27 GMT -5
Yes, I traced it from the Master cyl to the place where it goes in and also I can see where it comes out. A hole with a grommet and goes to a splitter for the back wheels. This is a 1970 frame.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 17, 2011 13:08:35 GMT -5
Must have been done by the origial builder. I have never seen a brake line run inside the frame. Does it come out the left or right frame horn? Is the fuel line on the other horn or did they run the fuel line somewhere else?
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Post by Jeff Lande on Jun 17, 2011 13:46:37 GMT -5
Mine's a '70, definitely not inside the tunnel... that would be near impossible to run.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 17, 2011 14:05:17 GMT -5
I ran a new fuel line in the tunnel for my Avenger project....but I had 16" of tunnel removed while I was relocating the shifter. It still wasn't fun.
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Post by Wyn on Jun 17, 2011 14:14:37 GMT -5
Every VW chassis I have seen the brake line runs down the out side of the tunnel on the drivers side. These pics are from one of the tunnel I worked on. The brake line was probley added to the inside of the tunnel and over years of vibration may have beat a hole in it, since it was not supported properly. A new one can be added, but you would need to cut holes in the sides of the tunnel so the line can be attached at points so it does not vibrate. Wyn
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Post by leonardabell on Jun 25, 2011 21:19:22 GMT -5
I give up. I made an appointment with a Volkswagen dealer/service center to have all new brake lines put on. As some one said, the car has to stop!!!!
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Post by leonardabell on Jun 30, 2011 7:55:10 GMT -5
I got the Brad into the VW dealership by using the emergy brake and down shifting. They tried to sign me in with my VIN number, but since it is a Bradley VIN and not a VW, it wasn't in the system and they had a heck of a time getting me in the computer. Then finally faked a number. ;D It cost $105 for a brake inspection. They will call today with an estimate on the total cost. I think the price on my Brad just went up another $1000. More later.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 30, 2011 8:12:03 GMT -5
Ouch! And I would make a modest wager that it isn't going to be run in the tunnel!
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Post by mj on Jun 30, 2011 9:23:19 GMT -5
I got the Brad into the VW dealership by using the emergy brake and down shifting. They tried to sign me in with my VIN number, but since it is a Bradley VIN and not a VW, More later. If it's on a VW chassis then the VIN is where it is on any VW Bug - on the hump under the rear seat. Course, someone might have carpeted it over but it's not hard to find and remove with an Xacto knife.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jun 30, 2011 12:02:29 GMT -5
Odds are your vin is the original Beetle vin, problem today is all VIN's follow a specific 17 digit format. They are full of information and follow a specific mathematical formula to stop people from making their own.
Your dealer's system probably does not recognize anything other than a proper current vin.
Add that to the fact that most people that work in the trade as parts or service counter people are young and clueless. The computer is always right, if it is not in the computer it must be wrong or not possible. Most cannot help you out unless the part you want has a specific application. How many times have you went looking for a part that you know exists but do not know what year and model it came from? The first thing they ask is year and model, 76 Bradley is of no use to them.
I was in Princess Auto last week. They had 2 racks of 2 wire horns. The signs said "12v electric horn $2.99". Perfect, I need a few so I grabbed them. While waiting at the cash I noticed they were all factory stamped 24v. I went back and checked them all. All were 24v. I mentioned to the employee from that section that the sign was wrong and they should change it to read 24v, so that future customers will realize why the "12v horn" they just bought and returned 10 times does not work. Her reply to me was "That is what it scans in the computer it is right" and would not change the sign.
I cannot believe they are charging you for a brake inspection. That should be free. $105.00 is enough to buy all of the lines and many of the brake parts. Enough of my rant.
VIN info
The first three characters uniquely identify the manufacturer of the vehicle using the World Manufacturer Identifier or WMI code. A manufacturer who builds fewer than 500 vehicles per year uses a 9 as the third digit, and the 12th, 13th and 14th position of the VIN for a second part of the identification. Some manufacturers use the third character as a code for a vehicle category (e.g., bus or truck), a division within a manufacturer, or both. For example, within 1G (assigned to General Motors in the United States), 1G1 represents Chevrolet passenger cars; 1G2, Pontiac passenger cars; and 1GC, Chevrolet trucks.
The Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) in the U.S. assigns WMIs to countries and manufacturers.[5]
The first character of the WMI is the region in which the manufacturer is located. In practice, each is assigned to a country of manufacture, although in Europe the country where the continental HQ is located can assign the WMI to all vehicles produced in that region (Example: GM Europe cars whether produced in Germany, Spain, UK, Belgium or Poland carry the W0 WMI because GM Europe is based in Germany).
In the notation below, assume that letters precede numbers and that zero is the last number. For example, 8X-82 denotes 8X, 8Y, 8Z, 81, 82. In particular this does not include 80. [edit] Country codes A–H = Africa J–R = Asia S–Z = Europe 1–5 = North America 6–7 = Oceania 8–9 = South America
AA-AH South Africa AJ-AN Ivory Coast AP-A0 not assigned BA-BE Angola BF-BK Kenya BL-BR Tanzania BS-B0 not assigned CA-CE Benin CF-CK Madagascar CL-CR Tunisia CS-C0 not assigned DA-DE Egypt DF-DK Morocco DL-DR Zambia DS-D0 not assigned EA-EE Ethiopia EF-EK Mozambique EL-E0 not assigned FA-FE Ghana FF-FK Nigeria FL-F0 not assigned GA-G0 not assigned HA-H0 not assigned
JA-JT Japan KA-KE Sri Lanka KF-KK Israel KL-KR Korea (South) KS-K0 not assigned LA-L0 China MA-ME India MF-MK Indonesia ML-MR Thailand MS-M0 not assigned NF-NK Pakistan NL-NR Turkey NS-N0 not assigned PA-PE Philippines PF-PK Singapore PL-PR Malaysia PS-P0 not assigned RA-RE United Arab Emirates RF-RK Taiwan RL-RR Vietnam RS-R0 not assigned
SA-SM United Kingdom SN-ST Germany SU-SZ Poland S1-S4 Latvia TA-TH Switzerland TJ-TP Czech Republic TR-TV Hungary TW-T1 Portugal T2-T0 not assigned UA-UG not assigned UH-UM Denmark UN-UT Ireland UU-UZ Romania U1-U4 not assigned U5-U7 Slovakia U8-U0 not assigned VA-VE Austria VF-VR France VS-VW Spain VX-V2 Serbia V3-V5 Croatia V6-V0 Estonia WA-W0 Germany XA-XE Bulgaria XF-XK Greece XL-XR Netherlands XS-XW USSR XX-X2 Luxembourg X3-X0 Russia YA-YE Belgium YF-YK Finland YL-YR Malta YS-YW Sweden YX-Y2 Norway Y3-Y5 Belarus Y6-Y0 Ukraine ZA-ZR Italy ZS-ZW not assigned ZX-Z2 Slovenia Z3-Z5 Lithuania Z6-Z0 not assigned
1A-10 United States 2A-20 Canada 3A-3W Mexico 3X-37 Costa Rica 38-30 Cayman Islands 4A-40 United States 5A-50 United States
6A-6W Australia 6X-60 not assigned 7A-7E New Zealand 7F-70 not assigned
8A-8E Argentina 8F-8K Chile 8L-8R Ecuador 8S-8W Peru 8X-82 Venezuela 83-80 not assigned 9A-9E Brazil 9F-9K Colombia 9L-9R Paraguay 9S-9W Uruguay 9X-92 Trinidad & Tobago 93–99 Brazil 90 not assigned [edit] Vehicle Descriptor Section
The 4th to 9th positions in the VIN are the Vehicle Descriptor Section or VDS. This is used, according to local regulations, to identify the vehicle type, and may include information on the automobile platform used, the model, and the body style. Each manufacturer has a unique system for using this field. Most manufacturers since the 1980s have used the 8th digit to identify the engine type whenever there is more than one engine choice for the vehicle. Example: for the 2007 Chevrolet Corvette U= 6.0L V8, E= 7.0L V8. [edit] North American Check Digits
One element that is fairly consistent is the use of position 9 as a check digit, compulsory for vehicles in North America, and used fairly consistently even outside this rule. [edit] Vehicle Identifier Section
The 10th to 17th positions are used as the Vehicle Identifier Section or VIS. This is used by the manufacturer to identify the individual vehicle in question. This may include information on options installed or engine and transmission choices, but often is a simple sequential number. In North America, the last five digits must be numeric. [edit] Model year encoding
One consistent element of the VIS is the 10th digit, which is required worldwide to encode the model year of the vehicle. Besides the three letters that are not allowed in the VIN itself (I, O and Q), the letters U and Z and the digit 0 are not used for the model year code. Note that the year code is the model year for the vehicle.
The year 1980 was encoded by some manufacturers, especially General Motors and Chrysler, as "A" (since the 17-digit VIN wasn't mandatory until 1981, and the "A" or zero was in the manufacturer's pre-1981 placement in the VIN), yet Ford and AMC still used a zero for 1980. Subsequent years increment through the allowed letters, so that "Y" represents the year 2000. 2001 to 2009 are encoded as the digits 1 to 9, and subsequent years are encoded as "A", "B", "C", etc. Code Year Code Year Code Year Code Year A = 1980 L = 1990 Y = 2000 A = 2010 B = 1981 M = 1991 1 = 2001 B = 2011 C = 1982 N = 1992 2 = 2002 C = 2012 D = 1983 P = 1993 3 = 2003 D = 2013 E = 1984 R = 1994 4 = 2004 E = 2014 F = 1985 S = 1995 5 = 2005 F = 2015 G = 1986 T = 1996 6 = 2006 G = 2016 H = 1987 V = 1997 7 = 2007 H = 2017 J = 1988 W = 1998 8 = 2008 J = 2018 K = 1989 X = 1999 9 = 2009 K = 2019
The US National Highway Traffic Safety Administration proposed rule NHTSA-2008-0022 in April, 2008, with several changes to the VIN requirements to all motor vehicles manufactured on or after April 30, 2009. There are three notable proposed changes in the new VIN structure that affect VIN deciphering systems:
1. The make may only be identified after looking at positions 1–3 and another position, as determined by the manufacturer in the second section or 4–8 segment of the VIN. 2. In order to identify exact year in passenger cars and multipurpose passenger vehicles with a GVWR of 10,000 or less, one must read position 7 as well as position 10. For passenger cars, and for multipurpose passenger vehicles and trucks with a gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 lb (4,500 kg) or less, if position 7 is numeric, the model year in position 10 of the VIN refers to a year in the range 1980–2009. If position 7 is alphabetic, the model year in position 10 of VIN refers to a year in the range 2010–2039. 3. The model year for vehicles with a GVWR greater than 10,000 lb (4,500 kg), as well as buses, motorcycles, trailers and low speed vehicles may no longer be identified within a 30-year range. VIN characters 1–8 and 10 that were assigned from 1980–2009 can be repeated beginning with the 2010 model year.
[edit] Plant Code
Another consistently-used element (which is compulsory in North America) is the use of the 11th character to encode the factory of manufacture of the vehicle. Although each manufacturer has their own set of plant codes, their location in the VIN is standardized. [edit] Check digit calculation
If trying to validate a VIN with a check digit, first either: (a) remove the check digit for the purpose of calculation; or (b) utilize the multiplicative property of zero in the weight to cancel it out. You should later compare the original value of the check digit with the calculated value. If the two values do not match (and there was no error in the calculation), then there is a mistake in the VIN. However, a match does not prove the VIN is correct because there is still a 1 in 11 chance of any two distinct VINs having a matching check digit: an example of this would be the valid VINs 5GZCZ43D13S812715 (correct with leading five) and SGZCZ43D13S812715 (incorrect with leading character 'S'). [edit] Transliterating the numbers
Transliteration consists of removing all of the letters, and substituting them with their appropriate numerical counterparts. These numerical alternatives (based on IBM's EBCDIC) can be found in the following chart. I, O and Q are not allowed, and can not exist in a valid VIN; for the purpose of this chart, they have been filled in with N/A (not applicable). Numerical digits use their own values. Transliteration key: values for VIN Decoding A: 1 B: 2 C: 3 D: 4 E: 5 F: 6 G: 7 H: 8 N/A J: 1 K: 2 L: 3 M: 4 N: 5 N/A P: 7 N/A R: 9 S: 2 T: 3 U: 4 V: 5 W: 6 X: 7 Y: 8 Z: 9
S is 2, and not 1. There is no left-alignment linearity. [edit] Weights used in calculation
The following is the weight factor for each position in the VIN. The 9th position is that of the check digit. It has been substituted with a 0, which will cancel it out in the multiplication step. Position 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 Weight 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 10 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 [edit] Worked example
Consider the hypothetical VIN 1M8GDM9A_KP042788, where the underscore will be the check digit. VIN 1 M 8 G D M 9 A K P 0 4 2 7 8 8 Value 1 4 8 7 4 4 9 1 0 2 7 0 4 2 7 8 8 Weight 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 10 0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 Products 8 28 48 35 16 12 18 10 0 18 56 0 24 10 28 24 16
1. The VINs value is calculated from the above table, this number will be used in the rest of the calculation. 2. Copy over the weights from the above table. 3. The products row is a result of the multiplication of the vertical columns: Value and Weight. 4. The products (8,28,48,35..24,16) are all added together to yield a sum of 351 5. Find the remainder after dividing by 11 351 MOD 11 = 10 351 ÷ 11 = 31 10/11 6. The remainder is the check digit. If the remainder is 10 then the check digit is X. In this example the remainder is 10, so the check digit is transliterated into X.
With a check digit of 'X' the VIN: 1M8GDM9A_KP042788 is written as: 1M8GDM9AXKP042788.
Straight-ones (seventeen consecutive '1's) will suffice the check-digit. This is because a value of one, multiplied against 89 (sum of weights), is still 89. And 89 divided by 11 is 8 with the remainder being the fraction "1 over 11," thus 1 is the check digit. This is an easy way to test a VIN-check algorithm.
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Post by leonardabell on Jun 30, 2011 16:23:17 GMT -5
Bad news. They said the master brake cyl is bad and since it is in a bad spot, it will take 10 hours to replace and cost 1500. I told them to forget it. Now, any suggestions?
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stevevw
Full Member
Part VW part Porsche , all Bradley
Posts: 117
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Post by stevevw on Jun 30, 2011 18:34:21 GMT -5
a vw repair shop would do it for way less . If I was any where need you I would do it for nuthing but parts . #1 reason I wrench on my owne stuff
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Post by mrbigh on Jun 30, 2011 19:25:07 GMT -5
Bad news. They said the master brake cyl is bad and since it is in a bad spot, it will take 10 hours to replace and cost 1500. I told them to forget it. Now, any suggestions? How about recurring to an small mom an pop car repair shop, this type of job is not such a big thing, cumbersome yes. While the place has a lift to work comfortable, is more than sufficient. It is about a 3 hours job having all the parts on hand.
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 30, 2011 20:32:25 GMT -5
3 hours max...including bleeding the brakes. And its not in a bad spot at all. 2 bolts from inside the car and remove it from behind the front left wheel.
They are hosing you with that quote. I bet they realized they can't run the brake line in the tunnel so they are trying to make some cash. Where are you located ?
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jun 30, 2011 20:34:12 GMT -5
Hi Leonard, Bring it down to my shop in Macomb and I'll help you do it. It's not that hard to do. I replaced mine when I first got it going as well as all new shoes, drums, and flex lines. Bring Sharon along and spend a weekend! ;D Gary Hammond,
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Post by thehag71 on Jun 30, 2011 22:30:35 GMT -5
I agree with Gary. For $1500, trailer it down to sunny florida, spend a week with my family and I, and you and I can fix it for way less than the repair shop wants. You get your car fixed, your wife and you get a vacation, and you still got money in the bank.
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Post by leonardabell on Jun 30, 2011 23:38:25 GMT -5
All good ideas. I live in Northern Illinois. I just might take Gary up on his offer later in the year. I just put my wife in the hospital today with a case of food poisoning or something on that order. I spent 6 hours there and they couldn't get the trots under control, so will spend the night and tomorrow.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jul 1, 2011 0:12:11 GMT -5
Hi, Leonard,
Gary's got talent and he's a good guy. Take him up for sure.
I just had my dual master cylinder replaced and it cost less than $150, parts and labor. My local ACVW guy is awesome.
As for your tunnel line, the easiest solution would be to ignore the tunnel option and just run a new line -- outside and alongside the tunnel on the driver side -- where it belongs. End of problem.
I'm not a mechanic and I don't want to be one. I love building anything I can get my hands on and I do everything on my Bradley myself, except tie-rod, spindle, steering box and brake issues.
A stuck engine gets you coasting to a stop. Failed steering or brakes gets you hurt - or worse.
Sorry you're having such a sh*tty time with your car.
Warmest...
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Post by rebel67 on Jul 1, 2011 6:58:29 GMT -5
Leanard , Sorry your wife is feeling ill, hope all is well. I have a couple VW projects going on, and all hadnt been driven in some time. I went to NAPA auto parts and got 2 dual cyl. master cylinders for $ 15.99 each. On my daughters Bug it took me 15 min to change the cylinder and 1/2 hour to bleed. Since you dont do that stuff yourself, take Gary up on his deal, sounds like a good time. I am always amazed at what shops get for simple jobs, and the sad fact is that most "mechanics" these days dont know how to "fix" anything, but just change parts until the problem goes away. WAY different than the way I was trained. A decade or so ago, I was re-building Master cylinders. New parts were for when you didnt HAVE a part to start with.....
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 1, 2011 8:12:11 GMT -5
Hi Leonard, Sorry to hear Sharon is sick and in the hospital. Hope she recovers quickly. Gary Hammond,
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 1, 2011 8:18:57 GMT -5
Jeff: As to the meaning of "outside". Do you mean outside the tunnel on the inside of the car or underneath the car. I am afraid it might get pinched under the car. Inside the car, it means tearing out my glued down floor covering. Just asking.
"As for your tunnel line, the easiest solution would be to ignore the tunnel option and just run a new line -- outside and alongside the tunnel on the driver side -- where it belongs. End of problem."
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jul 1, 2011 12:13:31 GMT -5
Hi, Leonard,
Outside and alongside the tunnel, not the pan. All one thought, no comma. Sorry if it was vague, but "where it belongs" should have made that clear - inside the car, next to the tunnel, just like the original.
Sorry I missed the line about Sharon. Please give her my best for a much quicker fix than your brake troubles!
Warmest...
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stevevw
Full Member
Part VW part Porsche , all Bradley
Posts: 117
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Post by stevevw on Jul 1, 2011 15:35:22 GMT -5
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 1, 2011 18:10:52 GMT -5
thanks SteveVW. My master is in the center of the car and not at all like the skematic. It looks like I need to start from scratch with it. I retreived the Brad from the VW dealer and he all but admitted he had no idea what to do with it. He suggested I go to a local shop and get it fixed. Most honest thing he said. I am not at all sure the master is bad. I cannot see any leak at the master, and of course it will not hold if there is a break in the rear line. $114.95 for a verdict I really don't believe.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 1, 2011 18:12:22 GMT -5
Thanks for all the good wished for my wife, Sharon. She checked out of the hospital at 3:30 today, and is feeling almost 100 %.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jul 1, 2011 19:07:30 GMT -5
There is no reason why you cannot run the lines under the car if it is easier to do. Your master sounds like it is not in the stock location. Any pics? All cars produced today run the lines under the floor on the outside. It is easy to run them inside the outer floor pan lip where the floor bolts to the body. Even if the fuel and brake lines were fastened to the outside of the floor under the tunnel, they would not get pinched or damaged.
The law states that fuel lines cannot enter the passenger compartment, Only VW has a "sealed" tunnel, other RWD cars that had the "tunnel" used it to cover the driveshaft so it had no bottom, that meant all lines followed the perimeter of the floor.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 2, 2011 9:08:18 GMT -5
All great ideas. Thanks. I really liked the pictures from another post, it showed the brake lines really good.
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Post by leonardabell on Jul 2, 2011 9:41:44 GMT -5
I hope this is a picture of my Master Cyl. Looks like it is in the correct place.
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