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Post by pushnfords on Apr 25, 2011 20:09:23 GMT -5
I'm getting ready to rewire the GTII. I'm comfortable enough with physically running wires and making connections but I'm not sure how to figure out how many circuits I need. I realize it is by amps and I'd have fuses with corresponding ratings...but where would I find the information on how to set it all up? As for grounds...should I just run a decent sized wire to a couple of different terminal blocks and run my individual grounds to those? For the wiring kits themselves, this is the 12 and 18 circuit kits I'm looking at. Any reason not to get the 18 circuit so things can be added at a later date? www.speedwaymotors.com/Economy-12-Circuit-Wiring-Harness,2352.html www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Roadster-20-Circuit-Wiring-Harness,42872.html |
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 25, 2011 20:24:45 GMT -5
I have run basic dune buggies with as little as 6 circuits. My current Avenger has a 21 circuit and I have lots of extras like power windows, linear actuators, a stereo, etc. I think I might have 4 left over after I ran everything. I have posted some pictures of the wiring in my build thread. I run all my grounds to one spot. There were about 20 separate grounds and I used about 275 feet of ground wire. I like them in all one place so its easy to chase gremlins. You can certainly split them up if you want. If you buy one of those kits you really don't have to worry about setting anything up. Each circuit is fused and marked. Another good source is www.rebelwire.com. I like the fuseblocks that have the flashers attached. Just a little cleaner looking in my opinion. |
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Post by pushnfords on Apr 25, 2011 20:39:09 GMT -5
I have run basic dune buggies with as little as 6 circuits. My current Avenger has a 21 circuit and I have lots of extras like power windows, linear actuators, a stereo, etc. I think I might have 4 left over after I ran everything. I have posted some pictures of the wiring in my build thread. Part of my problem is I'm building this car for someone else...and the guy keeps changing his mind on me. Last I knew he wants a big stereo I'm planning on a linear actuator for the headlights. For things like that how do I know what size of fuse to go with? Hmmm...those kits are made in the US...might go with them instead. |
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Post by mrbigh on Apr 25, 2011 21:25:59 GMT -5
Rebel wire kits look to be very complete and affordable
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 26, 2011 7:56:22 GMT -5
I know in my EZ Wire kit many of the unused circuits (like power door locks for some reason) were of very significant gauge wire.
The actuators take very little power really. I bet the wire is 16 or 18 gauge on the 3 actuators I have. You will certainly have high amp (20+) circuits left over for anything like a high end stereo. One common left over circuit is the electric fan.
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Post by smyrnaguy on Apr 26, 2011 9:49:12 GMT -5
I used an 18 circuit fuse panel in my GT and it wasn't enough. I've added another 8 circuit panel at the battery box. Most fuses are only 5 amp as I'm using LED lighting and digital gauges and I never double up circuits to one fuse. I'm also using a circuit breaker for headlights. Of course I have a lot of accessories that most do not like door poppers, remote start, cruise control, anti-tailgating device and electronic heat and air controls. I used a section of 1 1/2" square tubing under the dash as a grounding busbar. The tubing also supports the dash and steering wheel. No matter which wiring kit you use you'll find some wires too long and others too short. Crimps and heat shrink tubing are a must.
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 26, 2011 10:10:34 GMT -5
I used over 20 feet of heat shrink tubing.
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Post by pushnfords on Apr 26, 2011 18:15:07 GMT -5
I used over 20 feet of heat shrink tubing. Yep...I called a company today about buying a 25' roll. Also ordered a starter Weatherpack kit and a set of crimpers today. We stock Weatherpack connectors at work so I'm hoping I can use out of my kit at night and refill when I go into work the next day. |
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Post by rebel67 on Apr 26, 2011 19:14:57 GMT -5
I used an 18 circuit fuse panel in my GT and it wasn't enough. I've added another 8 circuit panel at the battery box. Most fuses are only 5 amp as I'm using LED lighting and digital gauges and I never double up circuits to one fuse. I'm also using a circuit breaker for headlights. Of course I have a lot of accessories that most do not like door poppers, remote start, cruise control, anti-tailgating device and electronic heat and air controls. I used a section of 1 1/2" square tubing under the dash as a grounding busbar. The tubing also supports the dash and steering wheel. No matter which wiring kit you use you'll find some wires too long and others too short. Crimps and heat shrink tubing are a must. I need to know.... What, exactly, are you using for an " anti-tailgating device" ? Sounds like somthing one of my projects could use. ;D The only item I was to put in my Bradley that would require a new circuit is a rearview camera system. Since you all tell me floor drops are a must, I figure it would be easier than trying to turn around to see behind me. I assume the product installation will tell me how many amps I would need. |
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 26, 2011 20:50:07 GMT -5
I get my shrink tubing at Harbor Freight. 8 foot rolls in many different sizes and darn cheap. It shrinks up quite well too.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 26, 2011 20:58:37 GMT -5
The camera on mine ties into the backup lights, no extra circuits or fuses, if you use it for a rearview mirror just tie it into park lights and run the park lights on ign power {daytime running lights}. The display just piggybacks on any ign controlled circuit. It has it's own fuse. Mine is wireless. Wireless ones pick up stray signals..toy dept in Walmart, washroom in meth clinic...you see many strange things in your. I once pulled up behind a guy who had his as a rear view mirror. When my display turned on it was weird seeing the front of my car in my rear view display.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 26, 2011 21:02:12 GMT -5
When buying heat shrink, spend the extra and get the type with glue inside it. The plastic is thicker and the glue seals out moisture.
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Post by mwilson on Apr 26, 2011 22:42:58 GMT -5
I'm also in the process of completely rewiring my GT II. Trying to figure out what to keep from the original design and adapting to something more modern was confusing. The biggest headcahe was trying to figure out what goes to the original steering column. (Special thanks to the Bradley GT folks here that helped me) I bought the EZ wire harness with 21 fuses - more than what I will use. I found a great diagram that didn't come with the harness. www.goindesign.com/w4r/EZ2Wire-Manual.pdf This helped to clear things up for me. I've already spent an additional $100 on ground wire, buss bars, connectors, etc. Not too mention over $300 in LEDs - flashers, side lights, dome light, 3rd brake light, 7 inch stop/turn/tail, back up lights. Mine is getting there, slowly but surely. Good luck on yours. |
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Post by smyrnaguy on Apr 27, 2011 13:26:06 GMT -5
My backup camera is wired into the dash computer/entertainment system and roof mounted. The anti-tailgating device is actually only a dual pump 1 1/2 gallon windshield washer. One pump washes the windshield. The second is plumbed to the rear just behind the back window and aimed at about a 40 degree angle rearward. A pushbutton will let me soak the windshield of the car behind. Silly maybe but I get paranoid when I can no longer see the front end of the car behind. I've been hit in the rear 4 times in the past.
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Post by buffalobradleygt2 on Apr 27, 2011 16:22:47 GMT -5
mwilson
thank you for link to EZwire, exactly what I needed.
I also sent a PM for a couple other questions, did not want to hijack this thread.
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Post by rebel67 on Apr 27, 2011 19:37:14 GMT -5
My backup camera is wired into the dash computer/entertainment system and roof mounted. The anti-tailgating device is actually only a dual pump 1 1/2 gallon windshield washer. One pump washes the windshield. The second is plumbed to the rear just behind the back window and aimed at about a 40 degree angle rearward. A pushbutton will let me soak the windshield of the car behind. Silly maybe but I get paranoid when I can no longer see the front end of the car behind. I've been hit in the rear 4 times in the past. Cool. Might be better than the high-power lights I was thinking of...  |
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Post by mwilson on Apr 27, 2011 22:17:53 GMT -5
Soaking the car behind reminds me of how I used to get into trouble in high school for soaking guys on the street with a water fire extinguisher. Not the same application and definitely off topic, but nevertheless-funny!!!! With today's road rage out of control, I'd be careful.
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Post by thehag71 on Apr 28, 2011 2:31:38 GMT -5
Windshield washer fluid for an anti-tailgating device?? Great idea, I like it and way less hi tech and more legal than the Speed Racer smoke screen generator that I was thinking of making. I still might make some "flamethrowers" for the exhaust tips though. Nothing says get off I disagree like some huge ass flames shooting straight at ya. Maybe I could put both systems on, then once I catch the front end of your tailgating vehicle on fire, I can push another button and squirt ya with windshield washer fluid and put it out for ya. Now that would be a viral video for sure.  |
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Post by thehag71 on Apr 28, 2011 2:34:23 GMT -5
wow, thats weird. Where I typed "my a**" , it was replaced in my post with "I disagree"
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 28, 2011 11:00:08 GMT -5
Windshield washer fluid for an anti-tailgating device?? Great idea, I like it and way less hi tech and more legal than the Speed Racer smoke screen generator that I was thinking of making. I still might make some "flamethrowers" for the exhaust tips though. Nothing says get off I disagree like some huge ass flames shooting straight at ya. Maybe I could put both systems on, then once I catch the front end of your tailgating vehicle on fire, I can push another button and squirt ya with windshield washer fluid and put it out for ya. Now that would be a viral video for sure. I can set you up with the flamethrower exh schematics if you wish. I saw a photo of Jay Leno's turbine powered motorcycle. He had a small sign on the back. Something like caution..stay back 30 feet. The guy behind him moved up to close to read the sign. Today's cars melt fast. |
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Post by Wyn on Apr 28, 2011 17:06:05 GMT -5
I used the E-Z Wining harness with 21 circuits in my GTII. The engine wiring just made it inside the engine compartment. The harness is made for front engine hot Rods. All the wires are color coded and each wire is labeled to its function. Which is fantastic so when it’s been a while before I get back to the wiring, I don’t need to retrace the wiring to figure out where I’m at. There is a 12V keep alive circuit for your Radio memory and anything else that need power when the ignition is off. And that extra fan wire that Jeff mentioned is handy for the Air Conditioner Condenser coil Fan. I had positioned the Condenser under the cargo shelf in the back just over the rear torsion assembly. I have seen where some aftermarket AC installation companies have mounted the condenser at that location in the Bugs. So I had made a shroud so the fan will draw all the air through the condenser. As for the tailgaters I think I place a port just in front of the engine compartment door spoiler, and use bird crap paint balls, you know the black ones with the white crap in them. It should loft it up, just enough to catch the windshields.  Wyn |
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Post by pushnfords on Apr 29, 2011 12:40:35 GMT -5
The windshield washer nozzles on my old '71 GT were angled high enough they'd catch the slipstream and hit the car behind me. I used them a couple of times.
I called Rebel Wire...guess their roof and front porch is gone from a tornado this week! Anyway the guy said if I wanted to go with the VW Beetle harness (12 circuit) the wires for the engine would be long enough and they could add an extra 4 circuits onto the side of the fuse block for around $15. I'd just need to tell them what the circuits would be fore and they'd use the appropriately labeled wire. Might be a good way to go.
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 29, 2011 13:27:51 GMT -5
Sounds like good people to work with.
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Post by bobevans on Apr 29, 2011 15:11:02 GMT -5
Definitely my kind of folks...Do you have a contact for "Rebel Wire"
;D I am beginning to wire my Mini T and I really need the help...
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Post by pushnfords on Apr 29, 2011 17:58:38 GMT -5
Definitely my kind of folks...Do you have a contact for "Rebel Wire" ;D I am beginning to wire my Mini T and I really need the help... I called today and got an answering machine...same message as if they were closed. I was a little put off but I got a call back later in the afternoon. The guy said they were closed...he lost the roof and porch of his house, the business is beat up, and the yard is trashed. Guess a tornado hit them pretty hard. He said they hope to be up and running full speed Monday though. That reversed my first impression...I'm impressed that they called back so soon given the circumstances. |
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 29, 2011 18:03:49 GMT -5
Agreed. Some people had some serious devastation. Making a harness might be not high on the list given the circumstances.
Nice that he took time to call back.
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Post by mwilson on May 16, 2011 22:45:28 GMT -5
Since we are on this topic... I'm finally into the dash. My question is in regards to wiring the wiper motor to the switch. I have bought a new switch with two speeds. I have four wires coming out of the wiper motor - Black, green, blue and yellow. The VW diagrams I can find, only show three and they aren't those colors. From what I can tell the black wire is low speed and the yellow is high speed. The blue might be spliced into the power source, but what to do with the green???
Thanks,
Matt
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Post by jspbtown on May 17, 2011 6:08:22 GMT -5
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Post by mwilson on May 21, 2011 16:49:56 GMT -5
The problem is I'm not using any of the switches that are listed on the Samba site discussion. My colors don't match the ones in the diagram and I guess I'll just use trial and error or, in the worse case scenario, punt and buy one of the switches that are in the discussion site.
Thanks,
Matt
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Post by mrbigh on May 21, 2011 17:33:27 GMT -5
Since we are on this topic... I'm finally into the dash. My question is in regards to wiring the wiper motor to the switch. I have bought a new switch with two speeds. I have four wires coming out of the wiper motor - Black, green, blue and yellow. The VW diagrams I can find, only show three and they aren't those colors. From what I can tell the black wire is low speed and the yellow is high speed. The blue might be spliced into the power source, but what to do with the green??? Thanks, Matt Ground or negative? |
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