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Post by mrbigh on Apr 6, 2011 20:42:53 GMT -5
That's only half the equipment needed to set-up a car Air Conditioner system........and very pricey. You better go with a standard cheap window AC, modify the mechanicals a little bit and ad a 12V to 110v converter for 1/4 the cost of the electric blue motors thingy . EDIT I just re-read the full specifications and it does require R-12 refrigeration gas, an already banned gas to use for consumers applications and very expensive for the trade. |
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Post by jdhicboy on Apr 7, 2011 17:37:25 GMT -5
Thanks for the idea mrbigh.
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Post by smyrnaguy on Apr 7, 2011 19:36:45 GMT -5
Unless you are building an EV, an engine powered AC compressor will be easier and cheaper to do. I see you have a York type compressor. If its still functional it can be changed over to R134 easily. If it doesn't work a York to Sanden bracket adapter would allow a smaller, more efficient Sanden R134 compressor to be used in its place. I bought my new compressor on Ebay for $69 w/shipping. I had no AC system at all but have pieced one together from scratch. The most expensive parts of my AC system were the hoses.
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Post by jdhicboy on Apr 26, 2011 0:37:12 GMT -5
Sorry, I haven't post any new pics. I have been side tracked by honey do lists. I will try and put some new pics up this weekend.
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Post by kitcarguy on Apr 26, 2011 10:28:42 GMT -5
There is a company in Florida that does A/C for bugs. If I am not mistaken last weekend I was told it was 1200 or 1600 Installed. I know you are in Kansas but its worth a call to pick their brain a bit www.gilmore-enterprises.net/ |
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Post by jdhicboy on Apr 28, 2011 18:40:02 GMT -5
Thanks for the link kitcarguy.
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Post by mwilson on Apr 28, 2011 23:25:28 GMT -5
I just put together an electric heater for my GT II. I haven't installed yet, but I have tested it. Since my Bradley will be an EV, the main power for the ceramic heaters will be 156V. The fans are from a marine business and they blow 220 CFM. 4.bp.blogspot.com/-ps6F5Jd0iNM/TaJqgaVmGXI/AAAAAAAAANk/YR0t9_n4mpI/s1600/DSCF1829.JPGAnother Bradley GTE owner has 12V ceramic heaters in his, but he lives in CA and I live in WA. Big difference between the two climates. The coolblue is intended to plug into an existing AC unit that was in the car previously. So to build this from scratch would be expensive. I own their Bluewindow and I have to say, they are nice folks to deal with. |
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Post by jdhicboy on May 17, 2011 19:12:28 GMT -5
Sorry no new updates. I have been working too much. I am looking forward to the next few weeks of warm weather and more time for the GT2
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Post by jdhicboy on May 23, 2011 14:41:28 GMT -5
Evidently I am not offering up enough beer to my buddies here. Second time I have tried to have a body lift party and on a few show up.  So maybe this Thursday I will have better luck. As soon as I get the body off . If this does not happen, I am going to rent a gantry and do it myself. Anyone have a recommendation for a wiring kit? I have looked a painless Kits just wandering what everyone else has used. I am relocating the fuse box to the engine compartment, so I need longer wires than normal. I hate having to crawl under a dash for fuses, or should I say my Back hates me crawling under a dash for fuses.  p.s. to whoever is readying this sorry the rapture didn't work for you. At least you in good company. ;D |
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Post by jdhicboy on May 27, 2011 15:32:58 GMT -5
 it's a start!  |
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Post by jspbtown on May 27, 2011 16:02:03 GMT -5
Geez...that horizontal board looks awfully bowed.
Make sure your secured..I would hate to hear an awful story of that falling...and breaking the windshield.
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Post by kitcarguy on May 27, 2011 16:08:50 GMT -5
Bad Idea you have right there. Thats a lot of weight on those 2x4 horses
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Post by dawgdk on May 27, 2011 20:29:34 GMT -5
put cross braces on the legs of yo mule before she does the split and double up the 2x that spans the car the rest should be ok I've built houses all my life and know that the saw horse is stronger than it looks and i've also learned looks can be deceiving !!!! I can pick up the gt2 body from the side and roll it over by myself so it shouldn't be too awful heavy I have seen people work with just 2 saw horses 1 under the hood and 1 under the trunk !!!
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Post by jdhicboy on May 27, 2011 21:35:52 GMT -5
We moved out the the chassis. Then we moved the saw horses in to better support the body. I was more worried about the bow on the 4x4s before I was worried about the 2x4 horses. I am going to redo the supports haven't decided how yet. I have seen a few neat ideas around on the forum.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on May 28, 2011 13:16:37 GMT -5
What type of wood are those cross braces? Are they that garbage wood made of finger jointed scraps they sell as studs?You mention they are 4x4's. When I had mine up on the manual list with 2x4 crossers there was no bowing.
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Post by jdhicboy on May 28, 2011 22:01:52 GMT -5
No Dan, they are solid 4x4 for fence posts. Hind site I should have used two 2x4s and nailed then together for more rigidity. The bow is gone now that the saw horses are moved closer to the center. Here is more pic after cleaning the chassis off.   There was a lot of mud and dirt build up on the chassis. So I vacuumed it off then washed it down. |
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Post by horen2tas on May 28, 2011 23:16:57 GMT -5
You need to track down the thread originated by Brian Boggs who invented the very best Bradley lift in the world!
I've used it and it's rock solid allows you to raise and lower the body yourself in increments and you can also freely wheel the chassis in out from under the body. Check it out!
Cost is about $35.00 money well spent for the security and safety
Brian if you're watching this thread please help this poor guy out with the pix before something bad happens!
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dean
Junior Member
Posts: 77
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Post by dean on May 28, 2011 23:55:25 GMT -5
Yes use Brian's lift its the best out there.
Dean
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Post by jdhicboy on May 29, 2011 0:55:12 GMT -5
If you have the information about the lift great. I ended up using 9 people to make sure lifting the body would be safe. I also followed this pics for reference.   I am going to add cross braces to the saw horses for added strength. I am making sure everything is sturdy and well supported. The windshield's safety and my own are top priority. |
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Minax
Junior Member
Posts: 61
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Post by Minax on May 29, 2011 1:06:40 GMT -5
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Post by jdhicboy on May 29, 2011 13:58:46 GMT -5
Thank you for the link Minax!
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Post by jdhicboy on Sept 5, 2011 16:49:19 GMT -5
Wow it has been three months with no update. Time really flies. Well the chances of getting the motor to run slim to none. One of the sparkplug holes is stripped out. Almost all studs on the exhaust snapped off. and looks like a few rats tried to make a home in the cooling fins. Here is a few pics.     |
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 5, 2011 18:46:46 GMT -5
You would be amazed at how tough those old engines are. Every single one I have torn into had the same nests in it. You may be able to helicoil the plug hole, or just pick up a new head. Drill and tap the exhaust studs out (or if there is some stud left then weld a nut to it...I just did that this weekend)....and away you go.
I am tearing into a old motor I had for my Avenger project. They clean up pretty quickly.
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Post by kitcarguy on Sept 6, 2011 9:42:40 GMT -5
Wow i thought my motor looked bad
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Post by jdhicboy on Jun 17, 2012 13:24:05 GMT -5
Wow 8 months go by fast. Just started working on the engine and wiring. Will post pics soon.
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So maybe this Thursday I will have better luck. As soon as I get the body off . If this does not happen, I am going to rent a gantry and do it myself. 
