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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 18, 2011 23:20:48 GMT -5
Hello All, I was glad to find this site. There is a wealth of information here. I have just acquired a GT2 I am in the process of striping the interior so I can remove the body to repair the rusted out pan.
My question that I have is this, Dose anyone run a A-arm suspension up front? I would like to do auto cross and had heard the standard front end dose not fair well in this application. Any help would be great. Thanks again for a great sight and forum.
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Post by jspbtown on Mar 19, 2011 16:23:11 GMT -5
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 19, 2011 22:54:12 GMT -5
Thanks for the links jspbtown. I don't have a large wallet, more like a medium size wallet as long as my wife doses see how much I am spending.
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Post by jspbtown on Mar 20, 2011 8:47:07 GMT -5
I feel your pain.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Mar 20, 2011 21:57:06 GMT -5
I really don't see a problem with the front end holding up. My front end only weighs in at 600 pounds even. That is not enough to stress anything. If I recall correctly, it weighed in at less before I moved the battery to a location in front for the torsion bar housings.
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 20, 2011 23:53:25 GMT -5
I wasn't worried about the stock front end on reliability. The main concerns were the issues with taking turns at speed. The stock front is is great for going straight and over hills. I just had heard there were issue if you push hard in turns. The articles that jspbtown posted help a lot. I am going to get ever thing ruining and fixed. Then I will see for myself how it handles.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Mar 21, 2011 21:41:09 GMT -5
Please post pics....titles here are getting confusing.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Mar 21, 2011 21:50:17 GMT -5
jdhicboy Although not the same car, I own 3 street legal dunebuggies which are lighter than the GT2. I have taken many high speed hard corners and never had an issue with it. The only thing I have heard of is the older swing axle rear ends would tuck the outer wheel and cause a roll over. This does not happen as easily with the lighter body and the lower center of gravity and wider track of the GT2 or other kits. I have gone into 90* turns at 60mph on flat offramps that are only 100 feet long. Like driving a go cart. I agree with your decision "I am going to get ever thing ruining and fixed. Then I will see for myself how it handles. "
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Mar 21, 2011 23:16:03 GMT -5
Don't worry, the back end will break loose WAY before the front end does. the only exception is if you install a disc conversion in the front. Then it tends to lockup while braking in turns. Rear discs are (still) in the plan for the future.
these things really have a poor weight distribution. 580 on the front and 1020 on the back axles. At least that is what mine weighed in at. It is a real challenge to get the ground pressure the same front and rear with starting numbers like those.
Of course mid engine conversions would help the weight distribution then the 'A' arms would help the handling but at that point a cheap Corvette would make more sense moneywise.
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 22, 2011 8:46:38 GMT -5
Sorry about the messy garage. Just a comparison, the Miata is about 2 inches taller. I think the seat from the Miata may be a solution to the drop pan issue on the GT2 Buckets. The seats are almost 7 inches narrower. Will take a pic this weekend when I have one out.
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 22, 2011 8:49:11 GMT -5
Wow I really need to learn how to resize the pic.
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 22, 2011 10:44:14 GMT -5
Your pix look fine! I like the portable grinding wheels! Generally I reduce a pix that I want full screen to 72 ppi (pixels per inch) at 12" width that seems to work fine in most situations. I'm enjoying reading the thread keep it up!!
all the best Mike Horen
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Mar 22, 2011 16:23:04 GMT -5
Sorry about the messy garage. Just a comparison, the Miata is about 2 inches taller. I think the seat from the Miata may be a solution to the drop pan issue on the GT2 Buckets. The seats are almost 7 inches narrower. Will take a pic this weekend when I have one out. What mess, have you looked at my thread? Now that is a mess.
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 22, 2011 17:49:43 GMT -5
Dan for all the work you have done on your GT2 a little mess is understandable. By the way Dan thanks for you post since I stole with pride from yours. I have been working nights this past 2 weeks and have not quite got use to it. I am going back to day in another week. I expect more work will be done then.
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 22, 2011 18:01:58 GMT -5
I would also like to point out that I am doing my best to make this project a all family thing. If you have small children at home please print out the above Pic.
Tell them to find the hidden objects. A Giraffe, A Rake, Engine Stand, Colman Thermos, Red tool box, a silver ladder and fishing poles.
See fun for the hole family.
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 23, 2011 4:51:52 GMT -5
I was also wondering how rare is AC equipped GT2s are? I have AC on mine and I don't think I have ever seen a bug with one.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 23, 2011 14:33:17 GMT -5
If you drive a Bradley where the sun is, you really should have air. There is little-to-no cross-flow ventilation in a Twoie, and none at all in a GT. Those two screw-vents up front are worse than a bad joke, and they bring in more bugs, dirt and pebbles than fresh air.
Worst air-less condition is a summer rainstorm - hot, humid and no relief. The sliders do little to bring anything into the car with enough volume to cool you, and removing the sun panels in rain is not a viable option.
The GT is even worse than the GTII because nothing opens while you drive. The up side to the GT is that the gulls and (Sundowner) rear window are removable. Unless you're stuck in rain, the GT is much "cooler" sunshine car than the GTII.
I had air in my GT from the day I built it, but in my 2000 (fourth) rebuild, I thought that I could do without it. Three months later, the body was off and air went beck in.
I had an air-co kit for my new-in-box GTII kit, but decided that I'd much rather build my Fiberfab MG-TD than the Twoie. I had the GTII kit for seven years without drilling a single hole, but I did a ton of research and collected a lot of nice optional parts. Building the car without air was unthinkable
Short story -- ABSOLUTELY air - in ANY and EVERY Bradley car.
Regards,
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 23, 2011 22:45:19 GMT -5
Thanks for the info Jeff. You FiberFab looks great by the way. I was impressed. I look forward to more post on that. I will be add a few more pic here in the morning. I almost have the pan un bolted. I only had to cut on bolt. I also hope to have pic of the Miata seat next to a GT2 seat for comparison. If the seats work I plan on just doing the 3" pan drop.
Does anyone have pics of a roll cage in a GT2? I plan on putting one in and was looking for pic for examples.
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Post by leonardabell on Mar 24, 2011 15:47:35 GMT -5
Not having a GT2, I can't give any advise on it. I do have a GT w/o air and it is not nice. I did find a way to provide a little ventilation, by snapping open the front clip on the window, and sticking a wedge in it to funnel the air into the car. The wedge was my foot. :-). I have since taken the doors off of the car and have installed snap on plastic and now unsnap the back corner of the "door" and let some air in. I also have half windows to snap on the bottom and leave the top open like a sun roof open.
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 24, 2011 19:54:29 GMT -5
Thanks everyone for the advice on the A/C. Sorry I have not posted any pick today. Wife went on a trip with the camera. So Monday maybe pics then.
I am working on removing the body from the pan now. Left off with the front bumper being the only thing left holding the body on. Possibly a few wires here and there. Not too worried about the electrical. We will do a complete rewire of the car. It is like a rats nest of wires, or maybe that is a real rats nest.
Well thanks again for all the support and thanks to Jefftroy for sending the CD manual so quickly.
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Post by jdhicboy on Mar 27, 2011 7:56:29 GMT -5
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Post by mwilson on Apr 1, 2011 0:05:54 GMT -5
Why was the back seat cut out?
My GT II had terrible rust as well. Having replaced the pans, I don't envy what you are about to do. I think if I ever do this again, I might just look for a rebuilt chassis first. I lifted my body up by using a motorcycle jack and some blocks of wood under the bumpers.
Cheers,
Matt
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Post by jdhicboy on Apr 1, 2011 1:19:12 GMT -5
I think a previous owner did this to get access to the motor. The spark plugs are easy to reach from inside the hatch. I don't know if I am going to fix this opening or leave it and put a hing on it.
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Post by jdhicboy on Apr 2, 2011 21:09:48 GMT -5
Well got the front end unbolted and the body lifted about 4 inches. Next will be putting the body up on the saw horses. Back on day shift now. This should help on getting further along. I will post some pictures soon.
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Post by swatcop on Apr 3, 2011 0:51:32 GMT -5
I am so glad to see someone else doing what I am about to start myself. ;D I too am also brand new owner of a few Bradley GT's 2 which are GT2's (me and my father went in on them). Nothing will be the same after I am done on mine though (ie. suspension, chassis, engine, trans, or the rearend) basically just the GT body on a chassis. I'm not sure how far you plan on going with your Bradley but I plan on using a IFS front suspension www.fulltiltstreetrods.com/frontsusp.htm like this on a tube chassis I am going to build. **I think this is a better and cheeper alternative than the expensive alternatives above especially if you are able to do the work yourself. I'll start a thread here soon then start posting more when I actucally start on my Bradley projects (about a month or so from now because I need to finish my Jeep project first). Good luck!!! I am looking forward to watching your progress maybe I get more ideas.
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Post by jdhicboy on Apr 3, 2011 18:53:56 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 3, 2011 19:58:46 GMT -5
I've said it before....the way these need to be reclined makes them not that great for this car.
In the side by side comparison you can see how the original seat offers some head support in the laid down position. Without it your back is laid down but you need to keep your head lifted forward.
Thats fine for a 5 minute drive, but your neck is gonna be sore after any distance.
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Post by jdhicboy on Apr 4, 2011 19:04:27 GMT -5
It would not be to difficult to ad more padding to the head rest like the original seats. I rarely ever use the head rests. My miata is my daily driver. So I really did not think too muck about the head rest. I have the seat reclined pretty far back to clear the top on the miata. I am 6'1" and the head rest hit the lower part of my head. I will probable try a set with a drop pan. With all the rust I know I will have to replace almost all of the floor pan. I figured the pan drop would be the way to go. I don't want to mess with the steering yet so the body lift is off the plate for now.
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Post by mwilson on Apr 4, 2011 22:58:27 GMT -5
I chose to go with the 3 inch lift. With the roads we have here in WA state - potholes the size of Rhode Island and rocks all over the road every morning from the crumbling hillsides, dropping the pan for me just wasn't an option.
Good luck.
Matt
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Post by jdhicboy on Apr 6, 2011 18:09:56 GMT -5
Well I don't recommend adjustable saw horses. They had a load rating of 400lb extended. I assume now that rating is for 2 of them. As they cracked before I even got the full weight of the body on them lucky for me I need a good arm work out. ;D No damage nothing fell just need to go to the old reliable 2x4 saw horses. On a different note what are your guy's thoughts on electric heaters and AC. I found a place that specialized in EV cars. www.electricbluemotors.com/CoolBlue8000AirConditionerSellSheet.pdf is a ac unit and I know ford had an electric heater for a truck.
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