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Post by mwilson on Jan 9, 2011 20:00:32 GMT -5
OK, when I replaced the rear shocks I was able to take out the bottom bolts with the frozen bushing sleeves attached. Now, I'm on the front shocks and guess what? That's right the sleeves are frozen to the bottom bolts on both sides. I have tried penetrating oil - no luck, tried a vice grip with a sledgehammer to see if it would break up the rust - no luck. My chassis is a 1967 and the bolt is either screwed in or a permanent part of the bottom control arm. I don't know which it is, do you? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Matt Wilson
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Post by don29163 on Jan 9, 2011 20:14:47 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 9, 2011 22:28:05 GMT -5
Heat. A MAP torch for the home enthusiast will work.
If not...you can CAREFULLY slice it lengthwise with a dremel cut off wheel and use a cold chisel to spread the cut.
Pretty common issue.
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 9, 2011 22:53:39 GMT -5
i had the same problem but on the top, so i got out my 3 ft beaker bar and torqued it until the top of the shock bolt broke off....but you cant do that......so i say WD-40, and a torch in turns. (and a hammer)
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Post by Wyn on Jan 10, 2011 0:14:39 GMT -5
jspbtown has the best way, an acetylene torch works good, but watch your heat.
I had the threaded part of the stud brake off, the stud is held in by a pin, if you can find the pin just drill it out remove the stud. Get a shoulder bolt cut the head off, use the old hole as a guide and drill a new pathway througt the bolt add a new pin and set it. You now have a new shock stud on your control arm.
Wyn
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Post by thehag71 on Jan 10, 2011 5:44:41 GMT -5
This exact problem is the perfect excuse to go buy a set of oxy-acetylene torches! Or as my dad calls them "heat wrenches." You WILL catch the rubber bushings on fire, keep a bucket of water close by, or a fire extinguisher, or both. Once you get them melted out of the way the shock will slide right off. Then you have a few options. Heat the sleeves up cherry red but don't melt them, pour cold water on them, heat again, cold water again, usually 3 or 4 times does the trick. The heat/cool cycle breaks the rust bond between sleeve and bushing and then you can slide sleeve off. Sometimes. Or, CAREFULLY use a cut off wheel and cut a slit into sleeve lenghtwise, Don't go all the way through sleeve into stud, but almost all the way, then use chisel to split. Keep us informed as to how it works out.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jan 10, 2011 16:05:03 GMT -5
Those shock sleeves usually have a slot in them on one side. You can grind the opposite side to weaken the sleeve then spread them open.
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Post by mwilson on Jan 15, 2011 16:20:51 GMT -5
I found the pins and yes, they were too rusted to try and get out.
No luck on finding a slit in the sleeve either, these were a solid cylinder.
Next, I tried heat. A full minute with my butane torch - no luck there except to cause some smoke.
Finally, I ground down a portion of the sleeve to the bolt and used my favorite gripping tool and 3lb sledgehammer to rotate it. Once I saw rust, I dowsed it with penetrating oil. Using the same sledgehammer and gripping tool, I continued to turn and twist off until I could grind down the end that I couldn't reach before. I then was able to pry open with a large screwdriver that acted as a chisel. The new shocks look good!
Thanks for the advice everyone.
Matt
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Post by 48flatbed on Jan 15, 2011 23:52:54 GMT -5
Heres a method I picked up off a Tractor forum. It has worked for me many times on stuck bolts and even a rusty brake bleeder screw on a 62 galaxy 500.
Heat the area slightly, just enough to melt candle wax. Touch a candle to the rusty joint and let the wax melt and wick into the joint. As the wax cools it expands and breaks the grip of the rust. If it is a long area of contact (such as a hinge pin) apply heat and wax several times and from both ends if possible. I use birthday candles because they are small and easy to direct the wax to the proper point.
It sounds silly but works well.
Jon
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