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Post by pushnfords on Nov 16, 2010 23:54:31 GMT -5
The owner of the Bradley I'm working on came to look at it tonight and asked if it was possible to lower the floor in front of the seat for more leg room. We haven't had the car assembled with the seat in it so I really don't know if this would be a benefit or not. Any thoughts?
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Post by don29163 on Nov 17, 2010 7:19:33 GMT -5
I know it is covered on jefftroy.s CD Try a search here also
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Post by smyrnaguy on Nov 17, 2010 7:40:52 GMT -5
You can drop the pans up to a point a few inches behind the pedal cluster. You need some floor to rest your heels on. Go all the way and you'd have to hold your feet in mid-air to drive. Very tiring.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Nov 17, 2010 9:43:40 GMT -5
I had to do this on my 68 Ghia. I just dropped where the seat sits. I went down 3" and it works great for me. Also it does not look weird having a drop at the pedals.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 17, 2010 11:36:34 GMT -5
You can also raise the body.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 17, 2010 13:41:05 GMT -5
You can also raise the body. I thought I read that the seat overlapped the side rail of the pan so you couldn't drop the pan under the seat with a GTII seat installed. Wouldn't that mean the seat also overlaps the edge of the body? I've asked the owner to bring me the seats but he didn't remember on his last trip so I can't mock it up. I know it is covered on jefftroy.s CD Try a search here also I didn't get the CD because Jeff told me most of his info related to the first version...and I thought I had the chassis licked!  Haven't figured out a good way to search this forum...."pan" is too short of a word and is thrown out by the search engine. |
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 17, 2010 23:46:43 GMT -5
Hi, Fords,
There are two CD's. One is for the GT and the other for the GTII. Both CD's cover all variants of that particular car, except for the electric-powered versions.
The GTII does not include my personal building experience or images because I never built my GTII kit, so I certainly could not have driven it for 600 thousand-plus miles as I did with my GT. Still, the GTII CD has a lot of useful information, including the complete build manual (called Structural Plans) pages and all the upgrades. Note that the wiring instructions and upgrades are in a separate manual for the GT, but are included in the Structural Plans for the GTII. That's the way Bradley published them and that's the way they are on the CD's.
The pan drop section is on the GT CD and the GTII CD, but some members have mentioned that the sides of the GTII seats overlap the outside frame rails. If that is so, the pan drop mas Bradley describes it ay not be a practical solution to the headroom problem in the Twoie.
Perhaps someone who has actually performed a pan drop for a GTII will chime in and give that point a yes or no from personal experience. I think that would be most helpful to everyone concerned.
Warmest regards,
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Post by topdude on Nov 18, 2010 19:05:54 GMT -5
Working on the chassis and engine right now. On my GT II I've dropped the pans 3 inches and will remove the outside lip on the seats for the fit needed. Welded in new support rails. Not home enough to move very fast on the car! Attachments:
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 18, 2010 19:45:54 GMT -5
I'm going to pick up a Crown Vic I'm buying this weekend and will be somewhat close to the Bradley owner's house...I'll try to pick up a seat so I can mock it up and see what I'm facing. Just need to get the suspension back together first. Well...and make some kind of a stand to hold the body. I only have one garage bay free so I need the body high enough I can store the pan under it and wheel it back and forth as needed. And I just send money for a CD.  |
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Post by horen2tas on Nov 18, 2010 21:33:57 GMT -5
Hey Brian Boggs, it's time to republish those pix and description of your amazing "Boggs Bradley Lift" Pushinfords could benefit greatly!!! It's helped me more than words can describe!
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Post by Wyn on Nov 19, 2010 0:46:50 GMT -5
If you use the orginal GT II seats. You can only drop the pans 1" as the outer edge of the seats will sit on edge of the glass body mount. Or use a spacer to raise the body. I used 1" thin wall square tubing. The following pics shows the spaceing around my seats. One pic shows the slider resting glass body mount, that is under that side extension on the drivers seat.    I was using fiberglass floor pans on this chassis. At this time I'm trying to get the AC evaporator coil install into the dash, I having problem lines taking up too much space where the assembly will no seat properly in the dash. Wyn |
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Post by brianboggs on Nov 19, 2010 15:54:16 GMT -5
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Post by brianboggs on Nov 19, 2010 16:01:12 GMT -5
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Post by mwilson on Nov 23, 2010 23:37:01 GMT -5
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 26, 2010 16:11:00 GMT -5
The owner decided not to mess with dropping the floor pans due to the time and expense involved so I'll just be putting in rear 1/4 patches. I've got a new front axle ordered (shipped today from cip1) and I'll hopefully be working on building a rack for the body this weekend. I'm hoping that if I get the body stored high enough I can wheel the pan in and out as needed to either work on the pan inside or move it outside to work on the interior. I picked up the seats so I'll still investigate raising the body. Looks like the seats would be easy to trim down but I need to see what I'd run into for mounting. I'm also a little worried about trimming the seats leaving a sharper edge that would make sliding in and out uncomfortable. We'll see once it is mocked up....
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 26, 2010 16:15:44 GMT -5
Expensive...but if you were already needing to replace the pans due to rust the price is about what you'd have in some lighter gauge pan halves. |
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Haven't figured out a good way to search this forum...."pan" is too short of a word and is thrown out by the search engine.
