scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Nov 1, 2010 15:54:06 GMT -5
What are you guys using for the master cylinder reservoir relocation, in the way of hoses? Im pretty sure brake fluid is going to eat most bulk rubber hoses out there. Any suggestions? (The hoses that run from the cylinder to the reservoir)
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Post by smyrnaguy on Nov 1, 2010 17:09:42 GMT -5
The best, easiest fix I've found is to use a Volvo 240 reservoir directly on an aftermarket vw dual master cylinder. No hoses to leak or brackets needed.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 1, 2010 17:33:01 GMT -5
X2!   |
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Nov 2, 2010 21:44:10 GMT -5
Just got one on ebay for 10 bucks. A little dirty, but so is my Bradley. I see you are running those in line residual valves. Are they necessary or just an upgrade? Im pretty sure the check valves I omitted served the same purpose.....
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 3, 2010 8:28:21 GMT -5
Scott,
That second picture was hijacked. I believe that application has disc brakes which can sometime require those check valves to keep some pressure on the caliper piston.
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Post by pushnfords on Nov 4, 2010 19:25:14 GMT -5
Scott, That second picture was hijacked. I believe that application has disc brakes which can sometime require those check valves to keep some pressure on the caliper piston. Do all systems need the check valves? This Bradley is the first car I've converted to disc brakes without using a factory setup. Going with disc front and rear but none of the kits mentioned needing check valves. |
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 4, 2010 19:50:17 GMT -5
From what I have read many people operate without them. I would build it without, test it, and if pedal firmness is not adequate then install on on the disc side of the circuit.
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 5, 2010 1:41:51 GMT -5
I have front disc brakes with drums in the rear. I do not have any device on any of the lines and use a standard master cylinder. It works fine, with the only issue being that the disc brakes lock-up much quicker than the rear brakes. My understanding is that they put devices on the brake lines (or use special master cylinders) that help control how much pressure goes to the front and rear separately, so that it balances out the braking and they work more in unison.
Hope this sheds some light on the situation.
Regards
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 5, 2010 9:08:43 GMT -5
I was under the impression that the valves are residual pressure valves which keep the caliper piston from retracting too much into its bore and giving you too much pedal travel.
They have adjustable bias control units that allow you to dial in the pressure differntial (front to rear) to prevent wheel lock up. I do not think these valves perform that role.
Of course I could be totally wrong.
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Post by don29163 on Nov 5, 2010 9:18:50 GMT -5
One is for the brake lights, the other is for the brake warning light on the dash according to my schematic.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 5, 2010 9:24:39 GMT -5
No. Those are the brake light switches. Some switches have two terminal and some have three. They are wired in a way that activates your rear brake lights and a warning light if you should lose pressure.
The discussion has been about residual pressure valves which are placed eith in line or between the master cylinder and brake line.
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 5, 2010 10:21:39 GMT -5
I changed from all drum to front disc twice (BAHA & BRADLEY), and had no notable difference in pedal travel at all in either install (after proper line bleeding, of course). Who knows maybe there are devices for both what I said and what jsbtown brought up.
Regards...
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stevevw
Full Member
Part VW part Porsche , all Bradley
Posts: 117
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Post by stevevw on Nov 9, 2010 20:52:12 GMT -5
Back to the origenal question the hose you want to use is the VW type blue hose that can be found at the vw parts houses .
I have ghia front disk brakes and 944 porsche rear disks with a stock master cylender and no valves . The pedal has a bit more travel but will stop on a dime .
Cheers,
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