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Post by Charlie on Oct 30, 2010 20:24:12 GMT -5
My Bradley GT1 has a 1500cc signal port, it need some work but it runs. Earlier today I was talking to someone and he toled me he had a 1973 vw 1600cc dual port engine but he had started to take it apart so he can rebuild it, but sense I was planing to rebuild mine and put dual port heads on it sense I am going to make it a 2027cc engine, he wants mine to put on a rail buggy and would be willing to trade his for mine!
I went and looked at it and it is part way taken apart, but the tins are rusted up a little one exhaust manifold is rusted throw and the heat controller box on one side is practically destroyed! But the engine case, jugs and heads look fairly good, but I can not heat it run and some parts he dose not have like the carb for one. He wants the whole engine as it is now with everything but the clutch and the flywheel, he is giving me a 12v alternator, "same as on my engine now"
I am wondering if I should trade and if so what should the trade difference be?
I would appreciate any advice? I am also sorry for such a long post.
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Post by Charlie on Oct 30, 2010 20:30:34 GMT -5
Also keep in mined that this car is not a winter or a year project, but I am aiming to be finished within 5 years, so this is a long term project for me! I am doing it this way because I do not have lots of money and I would like to rebuild it right the first time and get every thing I would like to be done at the same time!
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Post by don29163 on Oct 30, 2010 21:30:01 GMT -5
ask bor enough bucks to replace the missing/rusted parts.
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 30, 2010 23:50:23 GMT -5
Also keep in mined that this car is not a winter or a year project, but I am aiming to be finished within 5 years, so this is a long term project for me! I am doing it this way because I do not have lots of money and I would like to rebuild it right the first time and get every thing I would like to be done at the same time! A 5 year project? Dude, In 5 years you can save enough to buy a monster crate engine. This engine that you are talking about is in pieces, is broken and rusted, and the seller sounds like he is just trying to swap his junk for your running engine. Walk away from this one bud...... |
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 31, 2010 13:44:40 GMT -5
Is your 1500 a H case by any chance? Is so then your not gonna build a reliable 2027 out of it. I am pretty sure its a single relief case, and am very sure that its one of the weakest cases ever produced.
Who cares about the carb. Your gonna need dual carbs of very good size to feed a 2027. I see no need for you to be worried about having no carb.
You say the heads look good...How did you come to that conclusion? By looking at the outsides? Thats not gonna tell you anything. All the seats could be cracked, the guides pounded, etc etc.
How is the end play on the 1600? Did you check it? If its hammered the case may be worthless anyways. What is the engine number? An AE case is a good case for your build.
Heater control boxes are cheap, as is new tin. I wouldn't say yes or no to any engine based on the shape of the tin.
What kind of alternator? The old Motorola style or the newer version with the internal regulator? I wouldn't touch the old Motorola versions.
If your "5 year plan" is to build a big motor (like a 2027) I would just install the running 1500 into your car and start collecting parts for a new motor build. Basically nothing you have now is transferable fom the 1500 to the 2027 (except for the old rotten tin you have)
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Post by Charlie on Oct 31, 2010 20:22:10 GMT -5
jspbtown: Yes my 1500 is a H case and the 1600 he has is a AH case. Thank you for telling me that it would not make a good 2027 because most people I have talked to said their is no major difference in the 2 cases. I do not care to much about the carb, heater boxes and the tins I am more interested in the trade difference because my engine runs and is in fairly good condition. His dose not run at the moment, and in total not so good looking at first glance and is missing a few things but they are very miner. As I said the engine is part way taken apart already, but to revise a little the outside of the engine case, jugs and the heads look fairly good. I removed the valve covers and the upper parts of the heads look good to me but I can always be wrong. I did check for end play and if I remember correctly their was not any play in it, but to make sher I will check it again tomorrow. I do not know what alternator I have but I think it is internally regulated. I have looked and I can not finned a regulator, but I went and took a lousy pic of it and hopefully you could tell me? My 5 year plan is to rebuild the whole car from the ground up. Attachments:
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 31, 2010 21:23:10 GMT -5
The alternator you have a picture of is internally regulated
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Post by Charlie on Oct 31, 2010 21:46:58 GMT -5
Thank you for your help jspbtown!
How good are the AH engines for upgrading?
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Post by brianboggs on Nov 1, 2010 4:40:03 GMT -5
Tell him you'll sell yours outright for $500. Take that money and start a motor fund. Add to it with paper route money and lawn cutting fee's. In four years you'll be able to buy a good reliable 1776 which is plenty for that car and built right will last a long time. I wouldnt waste my time with his motor.
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Post by smyrnaguy on Nov 1, 2010 6:35:36 GMT -5
An AH case is one of the better cases. It is dual relief with 8mm studs and case savers installed. Of course anything can be or could have been abused, misused or infused with the wrong oil or water. To paraphrase Forrest "engine cases are like a box of chocolates, you never know what you got until you open 'em up".
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Post by big bob on Nov 1, 2010 10:27:09 GMT -5
i'll chime in here, although i have no experience in rebuilding engines...
first, jsp (jeff) seems to have a lot of experience. he's certainly helped me. but i think his best advice is this: basically keep the motor you've got and finish the build. then, on the side you can start saving for the hot rod engine.
here's why: if you never get to drive the car, your enthusiasm and interest will fade. settle for "good enough" and move forward with the car. i've seen lots of faded projects where stereos, brakes, super engines and other things were added. but in the end, they didnt see the road. at least on their own.
i know all those things were important to the owners who installed them, but i'm just saying make sure you keep your goal in sight. sounds like you have a workable engine and thats easy on the wallet.... big bob
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Post by Charlie on Nov 1, 2010 20:28:43 GMT -5
Thank you all for your advice! I am going to keep my engine for the time being, it runs and I can drive it from time to time, but the whole car is in need of restoring!
First thing I need to do is to fix any body damage and weak spots! At the same time work on replacing all the wiring, because it is horrible to many splices and I can not make heads or tails of any of it, so I think I should start their!
Then up-grade the chassis with disk brakes, polyurethane bushings and some other new parts!
Last will be the engine and transmission! By the time I get to them I should know what route I want to take with them!
Thank you all!
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Post by thehag71 on Nov 2, 2010 4:26:18 GMT -5
Just remember, make it driveable then make it pretty. At the minimum, with a running engine in the car you can drive it, which is more than a lot of us can say. I would keep the running engine and work on the rest as time and / or money allow.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 2, 2010 8:23:12 GMT -5
Sounds like a body off restoration to me. Consider fusing the upper and lower halves when you are doing your repairs. Its not hard and gives the car a more finished look.
A total re-do of the wiring is very smart. My biggest pet peeve is hacked wiring. Its not hard to do correctly and also neatly. It just takes a little time.
Disc brakes are an OK upgrade. The car doesn't reall need them, but it won't hurt.
I would stay away from the polyurethane bushings as the sqeak an make the ride more harsh. Trust me...you don't need anything that will make the ride more harsh.
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Post by Charlie on Nov 7, 2010 22:44:57 GMT -5
I installed my new ignition switch today and I am happy to say it works! But I still have a long way to go!
Any advice on a wiring harness? I am thinking of using a 18 circuit harness, but would a standard universal harness work or should I get a fuse box then get a wiring harness specifically for a beetle then go from their?
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Post by mrbigh on Nov 7, 2010 23:22:59 GMT -5
The beetle pre-made wiring harness do come with very short wires for the Bradley GT-GT II body; meaning not much slack at all.
I would get a fused (blade type fuse) 18 circuit.
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Post by don29163 on Nov 7, 2010 23:45:24 GMT -5
I can't imagine trying to wire a Bradley from scratch. That has to be a pain.
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Post by jspbtown on Nov 8, 2010 12:21:58 GMT -5
Agreed....especially when it can be accomplished with a simple 8 circuit harness. Granted...thats for the bare bones, but it will have everything needed for operation as well as a standard stereo.
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stevevw
Full Member
Part VW part Porsche , all Bradley
Posts: 117
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Post by stevevw on Nov 9, 2010 21:08:44 GMT -5
Just remember, make it driveable then make it pretty. At the minimum, with a running engine in the car you can drive it, which is more than a lot of us can say. I would keep the running engine and work on the rest as time and / or money allow. do not know if I will ever get to the pretty part . I love to drive it too much ): |
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Post by thehag71 on Nov 10, 2010 5:14:25 GMT -5
I am jealous. I have never driven mine. Yet. The PO took me for a ride one time about 15 years ago, before he parked it to redo the electrical system, (which he never did and it sat nicely wrapped up in plastic sheeting and tarps in his dads backyard for about 10 years before I finally talked him into selling it to me.) Kinda funny though, I have put more miles on it trailering it up and down the east coast than I think it was ever driven. Used to be in the 1 year plan (bradley money went into remodeling house), then got bumped to the 3 year plan,(divorce), then bumped to the 5 year plan (moved to florida), now it has been 5 years, and it still isn't done ( I was on spring break), bumped to the whenever I get to it plan (Baby on the way) BUT, I still have it, I still think it is one of the coolest cars ever, it needs less work than it did last year, my fiance' likes it and doesn't mind when I spend time working on it, I have a son on the way that can help me with it as soon as he is able to, and it only cost me a tablesaw that I got for free and didn't need anyway. Sorry about the change of subject.
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Post by Charlie on Nov 26, 2010 23:10:48 GMT -5
I drove my Bradley GT to storage to put it up and get it out of the elements so that I can start disassembling it. on another note, I have been looking for some kind of back-up lights for my Bradley and I came across some monstrous lights that are similar to the brake/turn signal lights that came with the car originally, and I am going to see if I can make them fit some how. 5 1/2" in diameter outside to outside, 4 1/4" in diameter lens and 1 5/8" in depth Attachments:
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