glenn
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by glenn on Jul 6, 2009 14:55:11 GMT -5
need help i can not find a hazzard switch or firgure out how the brads switch worked ( 3 wires) and yes i have troys cd any body have a extra switch ? thanks glenn
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jul 7, 2009 9:18:16 GMT -5
Hi, Glenn,
GT or Twoie? The switches are different.
Pete (www.BradleyGT2.com) had GTII rocker switches available, but i don't know if he has any left. If not, I'm pretty sure they are Lucas switches from a Jaguar XKE. You can find them, but Jaguar items will be costly.
I think Pete may have also had a few odd GT switches. Pull switches like that are still available, and I know that MG Magic has similar and inexpensive switches for the Fiberfab MG kit. The knobs are different though. It's remotely possible that I have one in my GT junk pile. Let me know which car you have, and if it's a GT, I'll look. All my Twoie stuff is long gone.
I never built my Twoie, but can help clarify the circuit if you're unclear and you have a GT.
The GT wiring all works if you wire it as shown in the wiring manual.
Warmest regards,
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glenn
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by glenn on Jul 7, 2009 16:24:15 GMT -5
it's a gt 1
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glenn
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by glenn on Jul 7, 2009 16:26:32 GMT -5
forgot to mention oe wireing harness is long gone having to start from scratch thats why im having some problems figuriong it out thanks glenn
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jul 7, 2009 20:07:33 GMT -5
Use the page with the FULL SCHEMATIC, and wire one circuit at a time.
There are pages for dash and switch wiring. Go slowly and follow the diagrams without modification, and use the test page at the rear of the manual to verify your work.
I've done five or six GT re-wires, and the manual has almost all of it correct. The flasher circuit is fine. If yours isn't working, look for something you missed, or some terminal not connected correctly.
Warmest regards,
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glenn
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by glenn on Jul 8, 2009 7:50:57 GMT -5
Jeff what i have is 6 spools of wire some gauges and 1 headlight switch and lots of Patience but i do not have a hazzard switch or any idea how the 3 wire Bradley switch works would appreciate any help
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gunny
New Member
Posts: 5
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Post by gunny on Jul 11, 2009 9:39:25 GMT -5
Glenn, I have good news and bad news.
1st the good news, I have an extra switch.
2nd bad news, i am in Iraq for another 6 months.
I will have my wife go out and see if she can find it. If she can its yours.
Gunny
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glenn
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by glenn on Jul 11, 2009 9:53:01 GMT -5
thanks
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jul 12, 2009 12:12:47 GMT -5
Hi, Glenn,
I'd like to help but I really don't know how. If you have the CD, the written and illustrated wiring instructions are all in the manuals, and all I could do is repeat them by typing them out. That wouldn't help, eve if I had that kind of time.
The best advice I can give is what I've already typed: Handle the wiring by tracing and installing one circuit at a time. Use the Full Schematic page to follow every single wire, and refer to the individual pages when detail is needed.
It's all there. Just work slowly and carefully, and if something doesn't operate when you hit a switch or make a contact, go back and trace your wiring again. If there's an error you will find it. If there is no error, it will work.
Six spools won't get you all the colors you need, but you can tag your wires with strips of masking tape to make them identifiable.
"Some" gauges makes it seem like you haven't got the whole instrument complement. Figure out what you are missing and try to replace those gauges. Oil pressure is optional, but positively helpful to have on board, same for the ammeter. You can live without a tach and use your ears to figure out when to shift, but it's a good instrument to have when you want it. Speedometer and tank gauges are mandatory for almost every state inspection. Lights, hazards, reverse lights and turn signals are also mandatory for most inspections.
Figure out what you have and what you willl add later, and trace your wiring accordingly. If you plan to add something later on, put the wiring circuitry in now, and add the item later. Just tape off the wire ends to prevent shorts, and remember that the best way to wire a GT is with the body separated from the chassis and upside-down on sawhorses. Getting under the dash in any other way is no less than insane.
Best I can do for you.
Warmest regards,
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doug
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by doug on Jul 12, 2009 14:58:16 GMT -5
Jeff is right, unless you are of very small stature, underdash repairs is very....very....very tough, I did it once repairing my headlight wiring and I really dont want to do it again unless the car is broke down- side of the road type of problem I had to slide in on my back with my feet hanging out the car. once you finally get in is when you notice you don't have the tool or part or flashlight or what ever you needed with you
DOUG
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doug
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by doug on Jul 12, 2009 14:59:21 GMT -5
and getting out is just as hard or harder
Doug
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 13, 2009 8:21:46 GMT -5
I don't turn mine over like Jeff Troy does, but I do seperate the bodies and put them on my body dolly. I can then get under them with my little height adjustable stool and wire them quite easily. You can also test almost all the systems with just a wire or two connected to the battery before you put the body back on.
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glenn
Junior Member
Posts: 68
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Post by glenn on Jul 13, 2009 10:37:43 GMT -5
i've got all gauges and headlight switch& will order vw hazard switch today. i will follow vw wiring diagram. just not sure how to wire hazard switch. when i did my sandrail i had the turn/hazard switch made into one that straped to streeing coloum. i,m using vw coloum and switches for this one (looks better) i have a setup like jsptown just bigger wheels , easer to roll around in grass and at painters thanks for help
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jul 13, 2009 14:30:30 GMT -5
Hi, Glenn,
Great. best of luck.
Jeff -- Car looks super. Interesting color!
Warmest...
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