scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 10, 2010 19:39:45 GMT -5
Good evening. Ive been looking for another project and picked up this stunning purple monstrosity today. She cranks over but wont fire. I plan on spending all winter going over her part by part. Now here is my question: Are there ANY parts left available for this car? Ive been searching all night and cannot find a SINGLE source for body parts. The base car is a 63 Beetle and a 1200 cc motor (from what the owner tells me, but Im brand new to this car) I know Im going to have to fab most everything but Id like some more access to the engine bay and was wondering what options I have. Im by NO means new to cars, Ive rebuilt a 82 Camaro over the last 4 years. Shes pushing almost 400 HP (as a daily driver) and I need another toy.....  Uploaded with ImageShack.us |
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Post by leonardabell on Oct 10, 2010 22:37:01 GMT -5
Hi and welcome to the site. There are many folks here that can help, but I will give you a quick answer to your question. To have more access to the engine, you have two options. Drop the engine and work on it on a bench, or take the body off and go from there.
Parts for the engine are available many places that sell VW parts, and the body is a more difficult problem. The Front glass is available, and the side doors are also available. Some of the fittings are from a boat supply house. If the body needs work, better bone up on fiberglassing. Jeff Troy had a CD that will give a wealth of Info, make a search for it. Good luck.
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 10, 2010 23:00:29 GMT -5
Thanks much. So now that Ive gotten my first response, let me tell you more about the car. The seller has 2500 obo on the windshield, and had it listed on CL for 550. I worked him down to 500. Im pretty sure this guy is a sheister because he told me 1) parts are readily available from JC Whitney and 2) that the engine runs fine (but it wont fire...he blames a loose coil wire and points, however the gas smells like varnish) I took all this into account when I offered him 500. He also offered to trailer the car to my house which saves me another 100 bucks. I figure what the hell, used 1200 CC engines seem to cost less than the Holley carb on my camaro, so Im gonna give this a go.
So, the wiring is a mess. Electrical tape and zip ties everywhere. Given its only got the most basic of wiring, Im probably going to start fresh. Im no master electrician but shoddy wire work drives me nuts.
My windshield is broken and the thought of tracking down a mid 60's Vette windshield doesnt please me. The seller also told me it took a mid 70's windshield, which made me think "oh, there are plenty of trashed 75-77's around here I can pull from. Not so much with an early 60's model.
Im really looking forward to gutting the car and starting new.
Are there and cheap, run of the mill seats that will work? (Im in upstate NY, junk yards are a precious commodity up here and I know Im not going to find any crushed Miata's. )
Question: Does the body just unbolt off the frame? Is it a 2 man operation?
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Post by centralvalleygter on Oct 11, 2010 1:40:08 GMT -5
Hi Scott, Welcome to the board. Any glass shop can get you (and install, if you want) the windshield from the 64-67 Corvette coupe you need. Seats can be difficult because they must be only about 19" at the base, most are 20"-22". From time to time members will sell the stock fiberglass bucket seats. The following link has info about an aftermarket seat that works: bradleygt.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=366&page=1All the chassie and engine stuff is air cooled VW, which makes parts easy to get and fairly economical (which JC Whitney does have a lot of). The guy who originally made the doors and rear windows for Bradley is again fabricating and selling them. Use the search feature on this board and you can find most information you need. Just change days to something much more than the default seven days. And yes, get Jeff Troy's CD, it is valuable when working on Bradleys - he has the original assembly manual scanned in and lots of photos of his several times rebuilding his own car. Lifting the body works best with 4 people, but several members have fabicated systems that allow them to do it by themselves. Use the search feature & you should find some posts. If you can't let us know and some of those of us who have been around a while will try to locate them for you. Warmest Regards, |
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Post by brianboggs on Oct 11, 2010 5:29:46 GMT -5
Just a word of caution here. Make sure and use the KISS concept or you will never enjoy driving it. Keep. It. Simple. Silly(Sucker). Get it running and driving before you tear it all apart with dreams of making it a hot street car. It's just a VW with a fancy body. Vette(63-67) coupe windshields are readily available for less than $200. The Gullwing doors are in the $500-600 range for the pair. I just sold a set of original seats for $100. Like I said just try to get it running first then decide what you want to do to make it yours. Good luck. BTW, the first thing you should do is contact Jeff Troy for his manual on CD. It's the best $35 you'll ever spend.
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Post by thehag71 on Oct 11, 2010 5:34:03 GMT -5
Welcome to the boards. All of the chassis is air cooled volkswagen. (frame, brakes, suspension, motor, etc.) Available from JC Whitney and about a million other places. All of the body is bradley, which is made up of a lot of marine hardware, a few items that were specially made for the bradley ( like the original wiring harness, seats, doors and rear windows.) Nobody makes a direct replacement wiring harness, but you can make one yourself as most of us here have done, are doing, or should do. You can get the doors and rear windows from Ray Tierney at Sunray (do a search for "windows" on this site and you should find the info, if not post a message and someone here will get you the info.) and last but not least, is the windshield, which is actually a REAR window from a late 60's corvette COUPE. 1964 - 1967 are the years I believe. I would highly recommend the cd from Jeff Troy, it has a lot of information that is worth more than the purchase price. This is the best place to get any kind of info on the bradley, so don't be afraid to ask. Best wishes on your new toy,
Jim
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Post by brianboggs on Oct 11, 2010 7:30:04 GMT -5
The windshield is actually the FRONT windshield from the Corvette. I dont know where you came up with it being the rear windshield?
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Post by Jeff Troy on Oct 11, 2010 7:32:19 GMT -5
Hi, Scott,
"Windshields" are only in front. The glass in the back is called a rear window.
The GT windshield is standard-issue 1963-67 Corvette coupe, available at any auto glass shop in the $200-250 range. Side (gullwing doors) and rear (long fastback or short "Sundowner") Plexiglas windows in clear (bronze) or tint (smoke) are available from Ray Tierney at Sun Ray Products in Minnesota. Most other GT parts are reasonably easy to find from other kind and generous members here on the board.
If your electrical system is as buggered as you describe, the easiest way to correct it is with the body separated from the chassis and flipped inverted over a pair of sawhorses.
Working upside-down with your legs over the seat backs will infuriate you in a matter of minutes - and you will never have the tools and connectors where you can reach them when you need them.
While the body is off, you'll have full access to the chassis, engine, transmission, brakes and anything else that might require mechanical attention.
Separating the body and chassis is really pretty easy; just follow the assembly directions in reverse. In addition to the fasteners along the sides, you must disconnect the steering shaft from the VW rubber biscuit, and remove the brake reservoir and AC
lines (if you have AC). Then disconnect the wires at the steering box (primary ground), engine, transmission (reverse switch) and any other obvious locations. The speedometer cable must also be disconnected from the left front wheel hub.
My CD is easy. Send $35 through PayPal to jefftroy@aol.com or mail a check or money order to Jeff Troy, 759 New Holland Ave., Lancaster PA 17602. The CD is set to print assembly and wiring manual pages on standard 8.5 x 11-inch paper. Mess a page up in the shop and just print another -- much better than soiling and ruining those original, rare and costly Bradley manual pages.
Good luck with the car, and warmest regards,
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 11, 2010 8:44:33 GMT -5
I'll throw in my 2 cents worth: 1. Great advise on all the above posts. If there is ever a difference of opinion on Bradley history, parts or assembly then Jeff Troy is THE tie breaker. 2. Consider the Volvo 240 reservoir upgrade 3. Trash the wiring harness. Jeff likes the flip the body over, I like to just elevate it on some saw horses and use my little mechanics seat to wire it. Trying to fix/repair a hacked wiring system will leave you stranded in your driveway or the road. 4. My preferred parts suppliers include: www.cip1.com www.cbperformance.com www.aircooled.net www.socalautoparts.com5. www.thesamba.com is a great place for VW based info/parts 6. Well upholstered original seats are in my opinion the best for the Bradley given its very unique sitting position. 7. Strongly consider either a body lift or a pan drop (or both) if you are over 6' tall. 8. You may want to check your chassis VIN for the year. I see 4 lugs front wheels. I don't think (I could be wrong...someone chime in) that 4 lugs were available in 1963. 9. I would also check your engine # to see what you have (a pic would help too). You may want to do a simple 1600cc upgrade if the 1200 is trashed. If you have an old 6 volt system and swingaxle tranny it will fit but you will have to clearance it. 10. Brian's advice to keep things simple is simply the BEST advice you will get. |
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 11, 2010 8:57:08 GMT -5
Jeff, paypal will be on its was as soon as the seller delivers the car to me today.
Ill take pictures tonight when it gets here so you guys can help me discern year and engine size. I have to say, for such a small forum you guys came up with a lot of knowledge very quickly. I can see Ill be spending loads of time here asking all sorts of newbie questions.
Are replacement 1200 jugs available?
Is the 1200 to 1600 conversion just bolt on (jugs and pistons) or does the block need to be machined)
I cant find much on the way of rebuild kits for the 1200 cc engine. Im not looking for performance, but if I have to rip her open for rebuild and the conversion is CHEAP.......
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Post by thehag71 on Oct 11, 2010 12:53:29 GMT -5
I came up with it being the rear window from a corvette cuz I was just a littlle bit over my legal limit, and shouldn't have been trying to think, let alone type  |
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 12, 2010 20:22:31 GMT -5
Well Ive been playing phone tag with the seller for two days. Hes always busy, doesnt return my calls, puts me to voice mail......I want to start shopping for some seats but Im worried that Im never going to even get this car!
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Post by don29163 on Oct 13, 2010 7:33:34 GMT -5
I found a GT II local (SC) that caught on fire. the engine area is burned away, but from the side windows forward looks good. it has good doors, seats,etc. Pretty sure it can be had cheap if someone needs the parts. let me know. Also, I have a complete set of new glass for $400.00
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Post by dawgdk on Oct 13, 2010 9:23:54 GMT -5
Don, What part of SC would the gt11 be in I might be interested if not to far.
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Post by Wyn on Oct 13, 2010 15:56:10 GMT -5
I have a rear end for a GTE if anyone is interested. The GTE is the same as a GT II but a wider engine compartment. I am in central Ohio. My wife wants it out from under her Deck. ;D
Wyn
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 13, 2010 20:19:08 GMT -5
Wow, you guys really know how to hijack a thread. 8*p
So I got the car tonight. With a healthy dose of starting fluid I got her started.....but not running. The gas smells like varnish, Im sure the inside of the carb doesnt look any better. Man this little engine cracks me up. It sounds like an overgrown lawnmower. Guess its time to start buying parts.
Is there any way to check engine codes to verify that it is a 1200?
You should see the VIN plate on the car. Its a small aluminum tag with 6 digits.......
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Post by Tony O. on Oct 13, 2010 20:34:47 GMT -5
Hi Scott,
Get a Haynes repair manual 96008 VW Beetle & Karmann Ghia 1954 thru 1979. There is a section on engine ID.
Lots of good info on the VW engine / chassis / drive train.
I have a GT2 and live near Brockport NY.
Tony O.
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 13, 2010 21:54:52 GMT -5
Oh holy hell.....my Vin dates to 1952 and is just a small metal tag with 6 numbers stamped in it. I hopes its even a VIN tag.
My Engine, B6 xxxxxx appears to be 1970 1600cc? Can anybody verify my stupidity?
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Post by Jeff Lande on Oct 13, 2010 22:09:00 GMT -5
yep, B6 is 1970 1600cc single-port.... (assuming someone didn't replace the heads).
Bug engines have to be about the easiest thing in the world to work on. I hadn't so much as looked at the inside of an engine for almost 20 years, and I got mine working again... I had to replace one jug, the starter, the exhaust, re-gap the valves, added a breakerless ignition, put on a new oil pump with filter, etc.
I'm having a blast!!! Hope you do too!
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Post by don29163 on Oct 14, 2010 5:11:58 GMT -5
Don, What part of SC would the gt11 be in I might be interested if not to far. It is in Eutawville, SC Close to SAntee, SC |
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Post by brianboggs on Oct 14, 2010 5:37:43 GMT -5
I am thinking all VW VIN's on the chassis were stamped into the tunnel and not a tag mounted to it. It might be an assigned title or the previous owner had a title from a 52 and not for that particular chassis and just made up some tag in case the po-po stopped him. Did you get a title with the purchase?
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 14, 2010 9:50:56 GMT -5
4 bolt rims would suggest it was not a 52. They could have changed the frame head for a ball joint front, but thats unlikely. The VIN is located toward the rear of the pan right in front of the shifter access plate. If you look at this picture you will see a small gray area right in front of the diamondplate coupler cover (round disc). Thats the VIN location.  Go here to date the chassis: www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/bugchassisdating.php |
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Post by mrbigh on Oct 14, 2010 15:06:54 GMT -5
JSPB, is this a swing or IRS chassis?
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 14, 2010 23:21:30 GMT -5
VIN: The transmission housing is covered by a battery box and tons of fiberglass. I will rip it open just to see.....
Lug nuts- Shes got 4 up front with 13 inch wheels and 14 inch in the back with 5 lugs.
Tonight's progress: I got her to fire up last night with starting fluid. Runs for about 5 seconds and dies. TONIGHT: Pulled the carb. Gas is full of water. Accelerator pump was stuck, linkage was bent. Entire carb full of yucky. I dropped all the parts in a bucket of solvent. Im hoping to find a rebuild kit soon. Do these carbs take to rebuilds well or should I just find a new refurb model?
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Post by brianboggs on Oct 15, 2010 5:51:46 GMT -5
The area for the VIN number is pretty much between the seats. I dont see how a battery box would fit there? Does the Vin plate say Bradley on it? You might be looking at the Bradley supplied body tag?
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Post by Jeff Lande on Oct 15, 2010 6:43:10 GMT -5
no, right here... right in front of where you would lift off the little access plate to get to where the shift linkage connects to the tranny.  |
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 15, 2010 11:27:49 GMT -5
I am thinking all VW VIN's on the chassis were stamped into the tunnel and not a tag mounted to it. It might be an assigned title or the previous owner had a title from a 52 and not for that particular chassis and just made up some tag in case the po-po stopped him. Did you get a title with the purchase? No title. The seller was a real shady character and lied to me about most everything on the car, but he was willing to fill out all the DMV paperwork with me so Im not worried about it being stolen. I did mange to find the frame VIN after I air chiseled away a bunch of fiberglass. Its a 67! Is my engine supposed to have a voltage regulator? There isnt one on my generator, there is a new one in a box thrown in the back of the car.....Im probably only going to run lights and MAYBE a radio. |
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Post by smyrnaguy on Oct 15, 2010 11:42:19 GMT -5
If you have a generator it has to have a regulator. The newer alternators use internal regulators.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 15, 2010 11:45:29 GMT -5
Mr. Bigh...its a swing axle. The chassis was for my Manx.
67 chassis is most likely a ball joint front end and a swing axle tranny.
Yes..it requires a regulator. An alternator swap is always a good idea.
Carbs can be rebuilt bit look for play in the throttle shafts.
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scottd
Junior Member
Posts: 76
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Post by scottd on Oct 15, 2010 12:31:28 GMT -5
Alternator/generator swap just a bolt on operation? Ill probably keep the generator until Ive got it running. Ill ask the stupid question.....without the regulator hooked up, can I damage the ignition system or does it just protect the accessories?
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