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Post by buffalobradleygt2 on Jul 20, 2010 15:44:10 GMT -5
New GTII owner.
I found mine at the scrap yard last fall and it was destined for certain destruction.. Basically the car has sat since 1986 (per registration sticker) and I was told it was in a barn until last fall when someone called the scrap yard to come and get it. That’s where I stumbled upon it. Because of other commitments, this past week is the first chance I have really had to get into it
The interior is in bad shape (dry rot) but the body is in good shape. Previous owner had already dropped the pans and glass is in good shape except side door windows are broken. I have learned a lot from this board I have also purchased Jeff’s CD. My plan is to get it running, clean it up, and fix just what is needed to make road ready. If it is as fun to drive as it looks then I will consider dumping more money into it.
I was thinking of applying a bed liner type coating to the floor instead of replacing the carpets, any thoughts? Pros - quick, easy, durable and easy to clean (I understand these have a tendency for leaking water). Cons- possible road noise and heat.
Also are there any patterns available for the interior and carpet? I did see Skip’s post with what interior parts he has for sale and am contemplating that but not exactly the color I was looking for.
Any thoughts comments are appreciated!
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Post by brianboggs on Jul 20, 2010 16:07:06 GMT -5
For the floor you could do what I did on my buggy. First do the bedliner deal after a good clean. Get some carpet runner material from the Homey Depot/Lowe'st. Cut a couple of pieces that just fit in there then use velcro strips to hold it down. When it rains in the car just pull the carpets out to hang dry and your done.
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Post by buffalobradleygt2 on Jan 1, 2011 22:36:24 GMT -5
Update, Car was a lot worse shape than I had originally thought. When I started to take apart I found about ½ dozen mice nest. Also as I have found out Bradly wiring isn’t great to start with and mice had chewed through most of it anyway. I also got the carpeting up and found what was supposed to be dropped pans was actually a disaster of rust and fiberglass and seat mounts about the only thing holding it together. When I pulled the seized engine apart (1600 DP) I found a cracked head. So as I was looking through craigs list (this is where the story gets better!). I found and purchased a running 1973 Beetle titled from NC so frame and pans in great shape. Previous owner had tried (unsuccessfully) to turn this car into a convertible. This is where today’s question comes in, for the $500 I paid for the car the owner through in a couple of brand new rail supports (can be seen in attached web site). Owner said they were used to stiffen the frame on convertibles? Has anybody used these? What are Pros/Cons? Thank you for your responses Dave www.mamotorworks.com/acvw-air-cooled-vw-beetle-cabriolet-support-rails-1-72-4639.html
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jan 1, 2011 23:13:08 GMT -5
I installed a set on my friend's 72 VW convertible. They are relatively easy to do, lots of welding, and can be done on a Beetle without removing the body. They add a lot of strength to the chassis, needed on the Beetle as there is no roof structure to hold the sides apart when the doors are open. The GT2 has very deep sides and a roof structure so these rails are not needed. Since you already have them and have to remove the body, I would go ahead and install them. They will only help with the structure and as a bonus you will be able to safely lift the car on a 2 post hoist {most shops use these} without fear of damaging the fiberglass.
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Post by smyrnaguy on Jan 3, 2011 9:53:10 GMT -5
You will most likely have to remove the jack support tubes from those rails. I've installed a set in a convertible and it can be done with removing the body but its not easy. Usually if those rails are gone the heater channels are too so there's very little body with which to deal. That being said and since you are going to replace the pans anyway I would suggest a perimeter frame of 1 1/2" square tubing instead. This will give you a sturdy support to attach new dropped pans and allow you to use captured nuts in the rails to bolt the body down. The main advantage to this is that you can reattach or re-remove the body by yourself. Unless you have rubberband arms it is not possible for one person to reach both sides of the body bolts. I used 1/8" steel for my dropped floor. I can jack the car up from any point underneath. Yeah if I were you I'd turn those rails you have into money on Ebay or the Samba. Of course all of this is moot if you don't do your own welding or have a good friend that does.
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