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Post by pushnfords on May 30, 2010 22:52:32 GMT -5
I'm looking for a performance carb for this '78 GT2 with a '72 1600. Most performance setups I've seen are dual carb...but will a setup like that fit in a Bradley's engine compartment? It looks too wide to me. If I need to stay with a single carb, what type would you recommend? I've never messed with Webers or the other carbs I saw on samba...I've mostly dealt with domestic carbs. I'd like something with improved performance but reliability is very important.
I don't mean to overload the board with questions...it is just that you all have been very helpful and seem 200% friendlier than a certain other forum I joined.
Derek
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Post by mj on May 31, 2010 6:04:42 GMT -5
GT or GT II?   I wrote earlier that I'm running dual Webers in a GT II and I can put the engine right in without any trouble, and there is room to spare BUT there are variations of GT II engine bays. What does your engine bay look like? (Measure it side to side). |
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Post by smyrnaguy on May 31, 2010 9:36:07 GMT -5
Can we assume you have dual port heads? Twin carbs can add more power but there is always a trade-off. Too much carb and economy goes out the window. You also lose preheating when going with twins. Cold weather and low speeds can be trying. 36 or 40 Dellortos/ Webers are good for a stock engine as are 40 or 44 (if jetted right) Kadrons. Another route that you might want to consider is a single progressive 2 barrel. A Solex, Weber, Holly or Carter wouldn't present the side clearance problems, the setup ordeal or linkage difficulties and would also allow you to keep the preheater. You still have to change the manifold or get an adapter (but that might present height problems).
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Post by mj on May 31, 2010 10:07:12 GMT -5
Can we assume you have dual port heads? Twin carbs can add more power but there is always a trade-off. Too much carb and economy goes out the window. You also lose preheating when going with twins. Cold weather and low speeds can be trying. 36 or 40 Dellortos/ Webers are good for a stock engine as are 40 or 44 (if jetted right) Kadrons. Another route that you might want to consider is a single progressive 2 barrel. A Solex, Weber, Holly or Carter wouldn't present the side clearance problems, the setup ordeal or linkage difficulties and would also allow you to keep the preheater. You still have to change the manifold or get an adapter (but that might present height problems). Yes, dual-port heads so that each cylinder literally has its own carburetor. And those are big heads, ported, big valves, and displacement is 2165cc with compression of 10.2:1, machined aluminum nickelsil coated cylinders, roller rockers, squish pistons, split cam, all balanced to perfection, and a full-flow oil system with filter and dual oil coolers with fans (switched). Believe me, this is not an over-carbed engine. A progressive two-barrel sucks for anything but wide-full-open. Even the one with a pre-heater (which usually chokes up with soot and crap in no time.) I know. I've had one. There is not enough manifold vacuum to support it at moderate speeds, especially with an engine below 2000cc. Oh, and mileage will suck, too. You want trouble, run one! I have no clearance issues whatsoever. In one of my Bugs I have a nice little 1776 with dual Kadrons and it is fine. Oh, and you CAN activate the chokes in Weber IDF carbs, but with the healthy accelerator pumps, a choke is not necessary. |
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Post by vallyr on May 31, 2010 11:41:22 GMT -5
Didnt read the above posts too closely , but I remember b ack in the day one of my baja buddies ran a preformance single progressive carb from weber that chirco.com still carries last i checked
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Post by jspbtown on May 31, 2010 13:37:10 GMT -5
I say go dual carbs. They will fit.
Plenty of choices. Dual webers or dual kads for a stock 1600cc motor.
Nice used sets come up on the Samba or EBAY regularly. New sets are available from just about anywhere.
Progressives can be made to run, but the dizzy choice is critical, and watch out for used ones. The shafts get worn and leak like crazy. You'll never get a leaking one to run correctly.
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Post by pushnfords on May 31, 2010 20:24:07 GMT -5
GT or GT II? I wrote earlier that I'm running dual Webers in a GT II and I can put the engine right in without any trouble, and there is room to spare BUT there are variations of GT II engine bays. What does your engine bay look like? (Measure it side to side). It is a GT II. Here's a pic of the engine/bay before I pulled it:  |
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Post by mj on Jun 2, 2010 12:29:50 GMT -5
Your engine looks pretty much like what I had when I got my GTII - one rusted, ugly lump. About all you know you can keep is that chrome nut on the alternator.  |
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Post by didget69 on Jun 2, 2010 14:28:47 GMT -5
If you've got a good compression stock 1600 dual port engine, keep the stock carb & add a set of 1.25 ratio rockers, SVDA distributor, 1 3/8" header & muffler system from CB Performance.
Hot VW's magazine had an article some months ago about add-on power enhancing parts for a 1600 motor. The goal was to increase power without 'opening up' the engine.
Yes - you can run dual carbs on the stock 1600 without heat-riser issues - chokes (or lack of) might be of concern in cold weather starts. I'd add a set of Weber 34ICT carbs, or you might go with Kadrons. I liked the Weber twim 34ICT setup that I ran on my mild 1776 motor...
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 2, 2010 17:46:50 GMT -5
Your engine looks pretty much like what I had when I got my GTII - one rusted, ugly lump. About all you know you can keep is that chrome nut on the alternator. Yea I just keep going deeper and deeper into it. Mouse nest throughout the tin, intake seals split, no air cleaner and leaves in the intake, rust holes in the heat exchangers, muffler clogged with mud dauber nests, and I'm sure I'll find more wrong. If you've got a good compression stock 1600 dual port engine, keep the stock carb & add a set of 1.25 ratio rockers, SVDA distributor, 1 3/8" header & muffler system from CB Performance. Not sure about the compression yet...going to have to tear down, clean, and reassemble first! Could do the rockers easily. I've already ordered a Pertronix distributor. My understanding is the headers do away with the heat exchanger = no heat correct? The owner wants heat in the car...and he likes the Monza dual outlet type muffler that was on the car...so we may be working with those. Hot VW's magazine had an article some months ago about add-on power enhancing parts for a 1600 motor. The goal was to increase power without 'opening up' the engine. Yes - you can run dual carbs on the stock 1600 without heat-riser issues - chokes (or lack of) might be of concern in cold weather starts. I'd add a set of Weber 34ICT carbs, or you might go with Kadrons. I liked the Weber twim 34ICT setup that I ran on my mild 1776 motor... I'm thinking we might be better off going with a single carb. The owner wants to keep a heater in the car...he intends to drive it as much as possible. Just not sure which one! I'll probably end up getting all of the bolt on stuff done (distributor, carb, etc.) and putting the engine back in and seeing how it runs. We'd talked about making it a 1776 before going back together but this thing has only had 2500 miles since '78...if I go into the engine I'd like to go through the ENTIRE engine. We might be better off having a spare redone over winter and running the stock + bolt on setup this summer. |
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Post by didget69 on Jun 2, 2010 20:22:05 GMT -5
Not sure about the compression yet...going to have to tear down, clean, and reassemble first! Could do the rockers easily. I've already ordered a Pertronix distributor. My understanding is the headers do away with the heat exchanger = no heat correct? The owner wants heat in the car...and he likes the Monza dual outlet type muffler that was on the car...so we may be working with those. Hot VW's magazine had an article some months ago about add-on power enhancing parts for a 1600 motor. The goal was to increase power without 'opening up' the engine. Yes - you can run dual carbs on the stock 1600 without heat-riser issues - chokes (or lack of) might be of concern in cold weather starts. I'd add a set of Weber 34ICT carbs, or you might go with Kadrons. I liked the Weber twim 34ICT setup that I ran on my mild 1776 motor... I'm thinking we might be better off going with a single carb. The owner wants to keep a heater in the car...he intends to drive it as much as possible. Just not sure which one! I'll probably end up getting all of the bolt on stuff done (distributor, carb, etc.) and putting the engine back in and seeing how it runs. We'd talked about making it a 1776 before going back together but this thing has only had 2500 miles since '78...if I go into the engine I'd like to go through the ENTIRE engine. We might be better off having a spare redone over winter and running the stock + bolt on setup this summer. Ditch the Monza exhaust as well; they are a very restrictive design... go to a single turbo muffler or duals; anything other than a Monza or other named '4-tip' style exhaust. Headers will work with stock heater boxes - bnc |
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Post by mj on Jun 4, 2010 9:21:21 GMT -5
What kind of headers will work with heater boxes? Certainly not performance headers.
OP - I am getting the impression that the owner of this car is either very rich or very foolish. His expectations are huge. Does he know that he's probably looking a a very large bill?
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Post by pushnfords on Jun 4, 2010 23:25:52 GMT -5
His expectations are huge. Does he know that he's probably looking a a very large bill? Yes, he went through catalogs to get an idea of parts prices before we started. He wants it to be mechanically excellent and reliable. |
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Post by jspbtown on Jun 5, 2010 9:41:44 GMT -5
CB Performance or Chico...those are your best bet for a Type 1 motor..in my opinion.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 5, 2010 11:58:33 GMT -5
After 17 years on the stock 1600 DP top end, I switched from the stock carburetor to the dual Kadron setup (from Gene Berg) in 1994, and have had no problem since. I also switched to an alternator and the Pertronix Ignitor electronic ignition. These were installed during the engine's only rebuild at 340,000 miles, and the clock is now nearing 630,000 -- that's almost 300,000 miles without a glitch and only one carburetor cleaning in 2003 or '04.
No more flat spot, no more worn points, no more sh*tty VW voltage regulators and no more headaches. These are three excellent additions that I highly recommend for trouble-free operation and relatively no maintenance.
Warmest...
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Post by mj on Jun 5, 2010 16:54:13 GMT -5
Jeff Troy's mantra of a modest build should be gospel. Built it right and be as happy as he has been.
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