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Post by don29163 on May 21, 2010 20:15:34 GMT -5
I have my front suspension finished.
Now for the rear, I notice if I jack up one rear wheel, it will lift the whole rear end of the chasis with no movement from the suspension. Even jumping on that side don't move a thing. The engine is out. Shocks may be froze up or just too long, not sure yet.
My 68 has single CV Joints, But, I have another bug that has 2 CV Joints on each side. Is that a better set up, or would it even interchange?
Any tips or tricks for removing the CV Joints for inspection and repacking?
Do the springs inside the rear tube need any type of service? I see a cap bolted to each end.
THanks, Don
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Post by didget69 on May 21, 2010 21:44:34 GMT -5
'68 Beetles with 4-speed transmissions were Swingaxle, not IRS cars. Swingaxle rears don't have CV joints... they won't interchange.
The rear is set up with a torsion bar, not leaf spring packs like the front beam has - get yourself a Bentley manual for Beetles; it'll cover this info...
bnc
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Post by don29163 on May 21, 2010 22:28:55 GMT -5
Not to be smart, But I had rather have people who have already done this stuff give me the benefit of their experience than to read it out of a book. That is part of the fun of these forums.
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Post by mj on May 22, 2010 8:49:44 GMT -5
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Post by didget69 on May 23, 2010 10:22:46 GMT -5
Don - Not being a smartass here in regards to mentioning that you get a book... merely stating that it will help you see the differences in the two rear suspension setups. The IRS rear is the better setup, used in 1968 & up AutoStick transmission setup cars & 1969 to 1977 Beetles/Ghias with 4-speed manual trans. The swingaxle cars do not use CV joints. If you opt to use the weld-in IRS conversion adaptors, it'll take a good bit of effort. How are your welding skills? You WILL need to be careful if you try to remove the torsion arms in the rear; you'll need to get a torsion spring plate removal tool to do it safely - www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC-C10-7047- even though some has done this with a chain & jack, I don't recommend it. In my 31 years of wrenching on VW's, I've seen a couple guys get injured while trying to remove the torsions without proper tools... bnc |
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Post by don29163 on May 23, 2010 14:50:29 GMT -5
OK, Thanks...thats what I needed to know. I will assume that I would be better off just using the the later model chassis. I have both.
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Post by big bob on May 24, 2010 8:42:29 GMT -5
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Post by pushnfords on May 27, 2010 11:54:39 GMT -5
I'll be tearing into the trans & rear suspension asap on a '72 chassis. If I end up buying the special tool it would be for sale as soon as I'm done with it. I'll also have a lot of pictures uploaded to my Photobucket page. Check my signature for the link.
Derek
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Post by jspbtown on May 27, 2010 12:05:54 GMT -5
There is really no need for the special tool for the rear torsion arms. Some common sense, some caution, and a myriad of methods makes removing them very simple.
I have used long clamps that are designed to hold wood together in woodworking project. Other people have used chains. And I have even just used a floorjack.
They key is to remember to be above the work. They want to snap downward.
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Post by didget69 on May 27, 2010 19:01:27 GMT -5
$30 tool is cheap....
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