questions about the Bradley GT

Hi Chad,

Welcome to the Bradley club! ;D

Most of your questions are the frequently asked ones. These have all been answered many times on the old board which unfortunately crashed last month!!

The original fuel tank was a metal (steel) boat tank. You may be able to have it boiled out at a radiator shop and then pour in a liquid plastic liner material that sets up. I did this to mine and it worked ok.

You might also be able to find a new fuel cell or fuel tank about the same size from a boating supply house. I think Summit and Jegs also have tanks or fuel cells about this size. You can also fabricate one from scratch or have one custom built to your specs.

As for the brakes, it's best to just replace all the parts with new ones. That means all the wheel cylinders, rubber lines, metal lines, and master cylinder. Also the shoes, drums, springs, and retainers if needed. The parts are rather inexpensive and available from several sources.

The bottom body flange is attached to the floor pan by several bolts around the inside perimeter (passenger area) of the body.
The steering column must be removed from the dash, the front body support tubes have to be unbolted from the body, and the headlight door cable removed before the body can be removed. If your car has a center console under the dash, it will probably need to be removed as well. And the wiring, fuel line, and heat ducts will all need to be unfastened from the engine. (If you remove the engine first, this will already be done.)

Lift the body only at the wheel wells when removing it. The nose piece is pretty weak and can be damaged if you lift it from the front. One person at each wheel well is the suggested method.

When reassembling, be sure to replace the rag or rubber joint between the steering shaft and steering box. This is a safety issue.

And be sure to get a copy of Jeff Troy's CD. It will address nearly every issue you will be confronted with. Here's the link for the CD
www.bradleygt.com/manuals.htm

Gary Hammond,

Hi Chad,



The front bumpers mount inside the two front body support tubes. The tubes are 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" ID pipe that bolts to the bottom of the floor pan and is then clamped to the lower torsion tube on the front suspension. The lower body nose piece is then clamped to these tubes to help support the front of the body. Here's a couple of pics of mine. (I notched mine to provide clearance for the front sway bar.)





The headlight door cables are boat steering cable that goes from the headlight doors to an overcenter handle that is bolted to the tunnel of the floor pan where it can be reached by the driver.

I modified the support tubes and also the headlight door cable handle on mine. The original set up is shown in the assembly manual which is just one of the many items in Jeff Troy's CD.

I made a bell crank and rod assembly (for the headlight door cable) that extends through the center console I also made.





Gary Hammond,