r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Jan 19, 2021 1:52:01 GMT -5
Got around to buying a Bradley with fast-back rear.
It is claimed to have a rebuilt engine and brakes, repaired pan.
Hope to go get it on Wednesday.
Pretty much complete except for doors which I will have to fabricate.
Thinking Vinyl or Canvas with Isinglass windows over simple fabricated frames.
Only needed in winter anyway.
I will leave the VW engine in it for now, but expect to convert to Geo 1.0 when the VW dies or I need better mileage.
Also recently found a trick to dramatically improve suspension geometry that I hope will work with the Bradley body.
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 19, 2021 8:35:53 GMT -5
Whats the plan for the suspension?
Given the cost and complexity of an engine swap you will probably be better off with the VW until it dies versus swapping it to save $ on fuel.
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Jan 20, 2021 0:41:22 GMT -5
Geo 1.0 engine has to be rebuilt before swapping. KEP makes the adapter.
50+ HP and 6K RPM but with TBI F.I. so gets about 50 MPG in the Geo.
Bradley should be lighter and about equal or maybe better aero.
Planning to do it the easy way with the Bug trans, using the whole Geo drivetrain would be trick but complex.
With most of my cars getting only 20 - 30 MPG or less, a mile-master in the stable would be a good thing.
Bradley is intended as a pretty mundane, but more interesting than a Geo, daily driver while I work on my classic car restorations.
It will never be so valuable that I end up selling it and then regretting the sale like so many other cars I have had and not been able to replace.
If it does not blow up too soon, as VW's do so well, I may put the VW engine into a vintage Tatum "Formula Vee" project I have.
The F-Vee would be a great Auto-X and Hill-Climb car.
Suspension trick is to copy what was done for a Formula-Vee many years ago.
Steering box was inverted and centered, steering arms changed to front steer.
This drastically reduced bump-steer.
If that does not work I have a short R&P steering rack to use.
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 20, 2021 10:07:13 GMT -5
So....a KEP adapter, new clutch, rebuilt geo motor, cooling system design you are probably looking at say $2500 if you do all the fab work yourself?
And lets say you double the mileage from 25 mpg to 50 mpg. Now lets also assume you might put 10,000 miles on the Bradley per year and gas at $2.50 a gallon. You will save about $500 a year in gas...about $10 per week and recover your investment in 5 years of putting 10,000 miles per year.
That would be quite unusual for the typical Bradley owner.
Have you considered the body mods and you will need to clear that steering set up? Very little room up front for moving things around.
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Jan 21, 2021 0:14:23 GMT -5
Geo engines are incredibly cheap to rebuild.
I would put conversion cost at about $1,500 or less.
Compare that to the price of a Type 1 VW rebuild every couple of years.
Geo engines go 200K miles easily.
I made it home with the Bradley.
'68 pan so swing axle, kind of a bummer there.
1600 DP engine, nothing fancy, claimed to be rebuilt.
Brakes are rebuilt and work, even the parking brake.
Corvette windshield glass is not broken but may be fatally pitted.
Body is going to be the big job.
Need to get rid of the faded flake paint and fix somebodies attempt at bonding the rear fast-back plexigalss to the rear deck.
So it's less of a project than some of my other cars but not as simple to make a driver as I had hoped.
Pics once I get it off the trailer.
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Jan 21, 2021 23:04:12 GMT -5
Pics, if I may link them successfully. 
 IMG_0501, on Flickr IMG_0500, on Flickr IMG_0499, on Flickr |
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 22, 2021 10:09:08 GMT -5
I can see 3 pics. And yup...thats a project for sure  To me the best seats have always been the factory GT seats. Those poly seats are not made to lay back at the angle needed for the Bradley. Looks like the tried to bond the plexiglass to the fiberglass....that ain't gonna work. Do you have the headlight covers? I think I have a set if you are interested. |
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Jan 22, 2021 20:24:36 GMT -5
Thanks, I do have the light covers/mounts.
DPO* hacked off the mounts for the mechanism to raise/lower them, then sort of started to mount rectangular lights on the body.
I see three ways to deal with this, two should be legal.
1. Use short gas struts to raise the original mounts, with latches to keep them down when not in use.
That retains the original look but still requires getting out of the car to raise them unless I get more complicated with servos or similar actuators.
2. Replace the original covers with clear plexiglass and mount the lights to the body.
Probably not really legal due to low height.
3. Mount 5" lamps into the fenders, use clear curved plexiglass covers.
Probably the most attractive and would be high enough to remain legal.
Changes the look a bit, probably for the better.
Would you believe I have already had offers on this car for significantly more than I paid?
Tallied up what I have into it, the offers are still too low.
Think I will just buy an EMPI type "Buggy" harness to do the wiring over.
Once my new concrete floor is done I will pull the body off to make it easier to work on.
* DPO - Dreaded Prior Owner.
Seems they are always incompetent at best.
EDIT: Just remembered that we may now use very small projector lamps.
That would make fitting them into the fenders even easier but might look odd.
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Jan 23, 2021 1:01:31 GMT -5
OK, after looking at way too many pics I have decided to fit 5.75" Cibie's to a new location much further outboard, in front of the wheels.
They will eventually get clear covers to fair them in.
Surprised no one else has done this before.
Eliminates all the hassle of "Hidden" lamps and I am sure it will look a LOT better too.
I will 'glass-in the original headlamp openings.
Not sure what the original purpose of the more or less rectangular openings down low was but they will now become driving light mounts.
I have the original tail lamps with the angled bases but do not like them so looking for something else to use.
I think I found some nice seats too, but pricy at $500.00, so those are one of the last items to get once I'm happy withy the rest of it.
My original light blue interior vinyl is trashed, anyone have a fresh set for sale? Blue not required.
As long as I am dreaming of new parts, how about a replacement rear window in the same style I have now?
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Post by jspbtown on Jan 23, 2021 9:01:59 GMT -5
I would stay away from those Bag-o-Wire kits. They suck.
Pulling the body off makes great sense.
Does your state require hi/low beams?
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 27, 2021 23:17:08 GMT -5
I have a pair of custom-upholstered aftermarket fiberglass bucket seats that I recently removed from my GT. Send me your email or cell and I will send pics. Seats are medium gray tuck & roll velour with gray Naugahyde trim. Passenger side is excellent, driver is very good. Upholstery attaches with snap buttons and studs. Seat backs are carpeted gray. Headrest portions were designed out to allow easier access to the jump seat (package shelf). Email to jefftroy@aol.com or call 717-917-3670. My phone won't put through calls from unrecognized numbers, so please leave a message if you choose to call. I will get back to you ASAP.
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Mar 10, 2021 2:07:21 GMT -5
Still waiting to hear back from CA DMV.
Not putting time or money in until I have an idea what is going to be needed to title it.
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Mar 25, 2021 12:59:38 GMT -5
Finally got a reply from CA DMV. A couple more forms and another $46.00 will get me a new title. So now I may get back to working on this one without fear of it being taken away from me. |
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on May 2, 2021 20:33:14 GMT -5
Ack! Finally got around to playing with the Bradley a little.
I do not fit. My Lotus Europa has more room!
Yanked out the silly plastic "Racing seats" and sat directly on the floor.
Yah, that could work if I can fab up some sort of backrest.
Shame to cut the new floors but if I am going to drive this I expect to have to drop the floors.
I may try a set of Triumph GT6 seats.
Wiring is hopeless, I will have to start over.
Engine sounds really good for VW.
Stock exhaust probably helps a lot with that.
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Post by jspbtown on May 3, 2021 9:36:41 GMT -5
Bradleys respond well to body lifts. I lifted the one I built about 3". Factory Bradley seats with sliders are the best. They are laid back and have the correct upright head rests built in.
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on May 9, 2021 15:46:06 GMT -5
Even Triumph GT-6 seats are too tall.
Going to look into just fabricating some seats as I really do not want to cut the floor or raise the body.
$500 for a set of Bradley seat shells needing to be recovered is just too much.
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Post by jspbtown on May 10, 2021 9:17:16 GMT -5
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Post by zeitgeist93 on Jun 5, 2021 0:13:18 GMT -5
I'm 5'7" and I barely fit in my Bradley. My body has a 1/4" wooden spacer between the frame in the front. I'm in the process of putting in a 3/4" spacer all the way around right now for more engine bay space to fit an air filter. You might consider something similar. I just went to Home Depot and bought some wood. I only spend maybe $20? I'm working on drilling holes and cutting the wood to the proper lengths. If you have a bit of free time it's definitely worth the investment. I would check the spacing height with some news paper or something similar in the corners between the pan and body to find what height you need.
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Jul 29, 2021 0:13:15 GMT -5
Reminded once again why I fled CA way back in '89!
I have been informed that they will ONLY accept a CA vehicle verification form before I may have the title I paid for.
When I finally reched some one to ask WTF I was told that have to have the emissions information.
For a car that is exempt for several reasons, such as being an air cooled 1968 VW, so very "Pre-SMOG".
But they are still demanding those lines be filled in on THEIR form! This means the only way to get a title is to trailer the car to CA and pay for another VIN inspection.
If I were further away this would make getting a title utterly impractical which I think is the real goal of the feculent CA DMV.
Just one more dirty dig to get all ICE cars off the road.
I will get the title but at this point I am parting out the car.
Seems a clean titled '68 chassis may be more valuable than a complete Bradley.
Engine is going into a Sand Rail I have traded away for some labor I need done.
Transaxle may wind up in my FV race car.
So if someone wants the body or roller less engine let me know.
Full set of VDO gauges are still in it, brakes have been rebuilt, otherwise as pictured above.
Let me know what you want and make offer.
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dirk
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Post by dirk on Jul 29, 2021 0:29:34 GMT -5
Hi guy....
I just joined this forum.
I am in willcox az.
Where are you at ?? the scenery looks familiar.
I just bought a gt2 and might want some parts.
Dirk
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r3fab
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Post by r3fab on Feb 14, 2022 20:56:25 GMT -5
Well, the Bradley has been moved on to a new home.
Sold the body but still have the chassis which may end up under a fiberglass dune-buggy body.
New owner intends to put the Bradley body on a 70 chassis.
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