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Post by vallyr on Mar 30, 2010 18:49:09 GMT -5
Hey guys, I've been reading through the forum as I've been manically working on my build, while sourcing parts for fab ideas. I've been reading quite a few stories here and around other sites about how the Plexiglas(acrylic) doors and windows are very susceptible to breakage, damage, and other maladies presented by daily driving. The fragility is especially evident to me, as after my purchase, the passenger door split right up the middle. With that in mind, I am not sure if my pocketbook is prepared to part with 500$ for a set of doors which may very well fail as a result of an inherent flaw in the material. Sunray Prices bradleygt.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=general&action=display&thread=176 So, I beg you consider the youtube video link at the end of the post comparing Lexan(polycarbonate) and acrylic, and pose this question. Has any one ever thermoformed any large sized polycarbonate? And/or does Sun Ray produce impact resistant polycarbonate doors/windows? If so has any one tried a pair? Interesting video comparing acrylic and polycarbonate motorcycle wind shields. Tests include thrown chunks of concrete, rocks fired from slingshot, baseball bat impacts, shotgun blasts and pistol shots. All of which destroyed the acrylic but all of which were resisted by the polycarbonate. www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hsls5ZPCUnE
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Post by vallyr on Mar 30, 2010 19:06:31 GMT -5
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Post by brianboggs on Apr 1, 2010 12:06:08 GMT -5
Its a shame the other board is messed up. This has come up so many times with so many opinions it would make your head spin. To me the best solution is to use half gulls of some sort and make a removable curtain.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Apr 5, 2010 10:00:51 GMT -5
you wold have to ask Ray at SunRay about the Lexan. All I know about it is it has VERY little temperature range from where it will form to where bubbles start forming inside it. It is harder to form.
Where did your door split? My wife broke my only original door in half when it came off the hinges as she was getting out of the car once. I still have it. You can "Frankenstein" it together by drilling a series very small holes about every inch, one half inch from the crack's edge and "sewing" it together with safety wire. Not Real pretty but it will hild the door together until you can make one.
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Post by vallyr on Apr 5, 2010 11:32:51 GMT -5
its been a busy week so i havent had much time to work on it, but it snapped along what would be the vent window on a bug.
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Post by justjoe on Apr 7, 2010 22:59:09 GMT -5
Ive been a signman for 15 years now and always lean towards lexan. The acrylic becomes brittle no matter what after time. The cost of lexan depends on where you get it. I buy it for 18.90 a linear ft in a 52" roll at 3/16. The bubbles can be controlled by time, very slow heating with very slow cool down. Ive been throwing the idea of making a mold for these but have been to busy to even touch it.
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Post by vallyr on Apr 8, 2010 1:25:33 GMT -5
Hey joe,
so you work with it? how would you heat it and bend it? You said mold? I couldnt just heat it and let bend to the shape of the door jam?
also you buy it in rolls?! I thought it only came in sheets?
Details please!
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Post by justjoe on Apr 10, 2010 9:34:10 GMT -5
There's a few different ways to heat it. The cheapest way it to make your own heater. You can use old toaster oven heating elements and attach them to a variable switch ( dimmer switch ) to adjust the temp. The elements must be above the poly, below will result in bubbles. Please dont try this if you are not comfortable with electricity!!! It is easier to use a mold to get the exact form. Yes, I get my lexan from a reel.
Here is some methods of poly bending: Cold Bending:
Polycarbonate sheet may be cold bent with the minimum radius based upon the sheet thickness. As a guideline, the material can be radiused to 100 times the thickness: (R=T x100)
Cold Bend Radii
Sheet thickness (T) Minimum Radius (R) 1/8" 12.5" 3/16" 18.7" 1/4" 25.0"
Note: polycarbonate abrasion resistant sheet is recommended for flat glazing only
Thermoforming:
Polycarbonate sheet can be thermoformed on standard equipment. Vacuum forming, free blown forming and line bending are most extensively used processes. While most standard forming techniques can be used, critical process modifications specific to polycarbonate are necessary to ensure uniform and repeatable formed parts.
Predrying polycarbonate sheet:
Polycarbonate sheet must be dried before thermoforming because polycarbonate absorbs moisture at a high rate. Trapped moisture forms vapor above 250°F, and the vapor expansion creates bubbles in the sheet. Sheets of polycarbonate should be placed in a dehumidifying air circulating oven for predrying with approximately 1" separation between sheets. Oven temperature should be 250°F and monitored with controls. Recommended predrying time periods are shown below. A note of caution-polycarbonate sheet begins absorbing moisture immediately upon removal from the predrying oven. The rate of absorption is dependent upon the ambient dew point. For this reason, it is crucial to transfer the sheet directly to the forming machine as quickly as possible.
Gauge Drying Time (Hours) .093" 4 .125" 6 .187" 14 .250" 24
Heating Cycle:
Heating polycarbonate sheet for vacuum forming requires heat penetration to achieve a 360°F to 375°F. When polycarbonate sheet reaches forming temperature, uniform "sag" occurs. The amount of sag depends on the size and thickness of the sheet. A 12" x 12" a .060" sheet will sag approximately 1". A 36" x 36" a .177" sheet may "sag" 4"-6" at the center. Once uniform temperature has been achieved, timers can accurately reproduce the condition, and part-to-part consistency can be maintained
Helpful Hint:
Polycarbonate sheet "sets up" very quickly compared to other thermoplastics and can be removed from the mold in a short period of time. Caution: polycarbonate sheet remains quite hot during this cycle and care must be observed when handling finished parts. Throughout the vacuum forming process, it is imperative that dust and dirt be controlled. Polycarbonate sheet has a static charge that attracts foreign particles which can create surface imperfections. Molds also attract dust particles and should be cleaned to avoid creating surface defects.
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