|
Post by jman on Jun 16, 2018 20:53:09 GMT -5
So I built my Bradley GT about 6 years ago... Or so... I just used 4 hood pins to hold the engine cover because I'm not a big fan of a piano hinge that was on it... Now due to a bad winter I'm re-doing my baby... Any good hinge ideas out there?
|
|
|
Post by horen2tas on Jun 16, 2018 21:33:41 GMT -5
|
|
|
Post by jman on Jun 16, 2018 21:37:51 GMT -5
Well I'm in Massachusetts so not to bad for me but... That didn't open to anything
|
|
|
Post by Gary Hammond on Jun 16, 2018 22:06:45 GMT -5
Hi jman, Here's a link to an old post of how I did mine. The hinges I used have a removable pin and the liscense plate light wiring has a quick disconnect, which allows the engine cover to be easily removed. Plus if you just want to open it for servicing the engine, it will stay open by itself. LINKGary Hammond,
|
|
|
Post by horen2tas on Jun 17, 2018 8:05:06 GMT -5
Look in CL New Hampshire and paste in ForSale :Continuous/Butt Hinges Stainless/Aluminum/Steel/Military Door/Boat/Car (Hollis)
|
|
|
Post by jman on Jun 17, 2018 13:56:50 GMT -5
Thanks for the info guys going figure out what I want
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jun 18, 2018 10:27:29 GMT -5
Well...let me try to struggle through explaining one thought.... I like using things readily available (and often CHEAP) to find solutions. Things that don't have to mar surfaces whenever possible. So...my list of things needed: Resin and matt Epoxy adhesive 4 small wooden blocks Steel tube from local home improvement center (maybe 1/4", 3/8" or even 1/2" ID) 2 hitch pins of appropriate OD (Like this www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-1-4-in-x-1-3-4-in-Zinc-Plated-Cotter-Less-Hitch-Pin-815578/204276315)So take the wooden blocks and glue two at the upper corners of the rear gate on the body side. Glue two corresponding blocks onto the back side of the gate at the upper left and right sides. With hatch secured into the appropriate location, cut short segments of tube that bridge the two wooden blocks that you have already attached. Glue and fiberglass over the tubes and the blocks. Maybe some kitty hair to smooth the transition from the round tubes to the flat blocks and then matt & resin over that? Then cut each tube in half at the junction of the hatch and sides of the body. This ensures that they are perfectly aligned. Remove hatch and make sure they are fully secured at the hatch and the sides with more glass if appropriate. Using the removable hitch pins, this creates a new hidden hinge which can easily be removed by pulling the pins and totally removing the hatch for ease of working on the motor. I would also slide a thin nylon washer to keep the hatch centered and moving freely. On the Bradley I built I used locks like this: www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-5-8-in-Chrome-Drawer-and-Cabinet-Keyed-Cam-Lock-U-9941/100173693 to lock the hatch at the bottom. You can use two (one at each corner) or just one by using two sections of flat material to reach from the left and right sides (I might have pics if you need them) Is all that confusing?
|
|
|
Post by jman on Jun 26, 2018 17:37:53 GMT -5
Would love a pic the first home depot link doesn't go to anything
|
|
|
Post by jspbtown on Jun 27, 2018 9:01:34 GMT -5
Weird that the link doesn't work.
Just search "1/4" hitch pin" on the Home Depot site.
I guess I don't have a picture of the rear lid loaded online so I will have to scan one. Send me your email via PM here and I will shoot some off to you.
|
|