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Post by iseewhatudid on Aug 27, 2015 20:34:27 GMT -5
Greetings everyone, Have you ever enjoyed hand me downs? As children it was more clothes and toys. As adults we often call the overly gift exchange of un-wantables as "re-gifting" to be nice. For me it was always a "getting something outdated and unwanted" kind of exchange. Lately my kinda-brother-in-law had problems with his beloved Bradley GT and recently he moved out of state. Unable to register the car or drive her to his new residency he passed the headache, er, car to me. I was rather perplexed by the generosity as it was quite unexpected and pleasant windfall. We found that the car was being held for ransom by a local shop that he and his father took their Bradley's to when they drove freely along the asphalt not too long ago. After her rescue we managed to get her to the driveway where she sat quietly while I did what any sane person would do, researched anything and everything I could find about the car. I also find out that the gifted car comes with a full welded frame set off to the side and a spare VW engine and a (what I believe to be...) 2006 Subaru EJ257 2.5L WRX STi engine, missing a few components, and wiring harness for the latter engine.   All that was lacking was enthusiasm...right? Right? Oh I was in for an adventure. And it is just getting started! I decided, on a nice sunny day, to jack the car up and pull the (what someone called a) Type 3 engine out. Did I mention the engine was absolutely filthy? Like never washed in years kind of oil and dirt build up... An hour later had the engine inside and checked it out. Sure enough the head had no compression on one cylinder and little compression on another on the other side. Pulling the heads off found the cylinder that was leaking had an over sized valve, which the auto shop said could not be re-bored. I figured I would check the other engine and found it to be (what someone called) a Type 1.   As I was tearing both engines down I noticed that the intakes had two ports for the two dual barrel carburetors on the original and only one port for a single carburetor between the heads on the alternative engine. The alternative was missing a lot of things from it to make it viable and the original, obviously needed parts. Another dismaying part is that the CV joints boots are worn and cracking. Fun times... So that is where I am at in this project, a dismal yet exciting beginning. I am pondering cleaning up the VW engines and selling them on Craigslist and/or Ebay to get a little capital to put into the cost of fitting in the EJ257. As far as I know I will need a radiator, pipes and hoses, an adapter kit from Kennedy Engineering or RJES and other do-dads, (hopefully not a new turbo...least for now). Although this is not my first rebuild, I do think it is the most interesting of beginnings, especially into territory of a body and engine I am unfamiliar with. Now that you've, perhaps, read through my long missive. Perhaps you could give me some advice to stuffing this in as a mid-engine. I've read that people "flip the spline". Has anyone done this or had it done? The oil pan seems deep on the Subaru engine. What options are available for this application? With the EJ257's base horse power it seems it is a bit much for the stock VW clutch. I think the Kennedy Engineering adapter utilizes the stock clutch size so a beefier clutch would be needed as well as other possible modifications concerning the turbo and exhaust plumbing. I believe the RJES bell housing replacement kit uses the Subaru clutch. Does anyone have any experience with either of these kits. What are the pros/cons to them? I have read nightmares of sheered bolts and stuff using an adapter plate but little to no exampled use of RJES. Which would be the better way to go? Thank you in advance for your patience and replies. |
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 27, 2015 22:03:53 GMT -5
First of all you need to appreciate the task you are undertaking. Its HUGE. The body is not well suited for a radiator. It will need extensive mods. The chassis will need upgrades. The wiring will be significant. The tranny will need work (even if its in the stock location). Fuel lines and a tank (where will that fit?) are needed for the fuel injection. Don't forget the custom exhaust as well. LOTS & LOTS of mods.
Take a measuring tape (its free) and see what you are dealing with. There is not a lot of room out back or up front. And don't dump too much of your hard earned money into this at once. Its a looooong project and the vast majority of people lose interest, and therefore their money, well before the vehicle is ever road worthy.
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Post by iseewhatudid on Aug 28, 2015 9:48:55 GMT -5
Thank you for the reply, and perhaps friendly warning, jspbtown. The understanding of the task being daunting and very long is quite an understatement. This would not be the first overhaul/upgrade that I have done and considering I will also have a 1961 Chevy Impala as an upcoming project, it will not be the last. I know the score of the game to which I have been thrust into. It is like trying to eat an entire huge cake all at once, overwhelming. Taken piece by piece it becomes more manageable, and in the end satisfying when done. I have a lot of time, energy, patience and work, (lots of work), ahead of me, and perhaps a bit of swearing added in for good measure. Most likely will have to make compromises along the way and changes to the original plan. Regardless, I will not be discouraged.
If I give up now I could sell off all these parts and walk away with a meager "inheritance" as it were. My kinda-brother-in-law did not just give me a car, though, he gave me his dream, his goal, although nightmare that it is. He also did so, instead of to some other, perhaps deserving, family member, because he believes in me to do it, and do it justice. So I came here seeking answers to the aforementioned untouched questions.
As far as your concerns jspbtown; I had my mind on using a Fiero fuel tank in the center, or fabricating one if need be for that location, once I can get better measurements of the frame. Having worked and rebuilt a few Fieros I think it might be the best option especially keeping it low and center with the fill and pump to the rear. I had thought of using a WRX tank but not too keen on the placement possibilities. The other "bonus" is that the body has to be shaved in that area anyway to sleeve over the frame. The shifter would have to be shortened and placed in a better reach for me anyway. The frame itself will need to be modified also the body just to sleeve over it. Wiring, I already have a full wiring set for a 2006 WRX. Though I might need to modify or even build a new harness from scratch using the old components and wires, which is the more likely of scenarios. Since the engine was front mounted the wiring harness would sit backwards, but if I splice it into a junction terminal box and plug into it from there I can run it however I want to the front of the car. The radiator I thought about using a Mazda Miata one with the dimensions of 27.25"x16.25"x2.25" Inlet 1.25" Outlet 1.25" that I should be able to fit. I also have to take in consideration the type of electric fan and its location. As I get closer I'll mock up certain parts, like the radiator and fan, with cardboard to get a better idea of fit before purchasing those components. Intake and air to the inter cooler are issues I will have to address as I go along. As I will be losing the rear "seating area" for the engine I will have options available. Eventually will have to switch the brakes over to all wheel disk. The t-top doors are warped and scratched. I know of Sun Ray but I might have something a little more ambitious down the road like maybe two part doors with actual windows. Exhaust has not eluded me though can a bit more fluid than most other parts so I'll tackle that once I get there. The major concern with the exhaust is, like the oil pan, clearance, (though heat is another concern). A lot about kit cars, or any rebuild, is seeing the issues for what they are, and then finding or making solutions to them.
My original goal had been to recondition the VW engine for at least now to get her rolling. That task though would cost money and effort to rebuild an engine that would otherwise go away anyway. I would rather put that into the end result. I already have taken measurements of various placements and took a while planning prior to even starting. My first task is getting the VW engines to go away, grime and all. My next goal is rescuing the, I am supposing it is a sand rail frame with roll cage, from its garbage heap to see what I have to work with. Then get the suspension to it and go from there. So about my prior questions?
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 28, 2015 10:52:56 GMT -5
I certainly understand the family importance and I don't want to discourage you from a task that has more meaning than just building a basic kit car from the 70s. The forum is full of old posters who had incredible ideas but seem to have run out of time, patience, skill and/or money. I have built a kit or two so I have some knowledge of their construction...and limits. Family pride can certainly overcome a lot of obstacles. So you plan on making this a mid-engine (just cause you mentioned you would be losing the rear package area)? And somehow incorporating the VW pan? And rear suspension? Any idea how you will make the IRS tranny rotate the opposite direction? And the shift linkage will have to be designed versus just shortened if you are going mid-engine right? Radiator placement will be where? Given the Mazda radiator was for a much smaller engine do you feel it will allow for sufficient cooling given the potential air flow issues? What kind of body mods are you considering? I don't understand the "sleeve over it" concept. Some answers for you about the mid-engine IRS (if that's what you are planning): www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=303370I can't help you with Suby conversions. Here are a few links though: www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/search.php?search_keywords=suby&search_forum=38www.dunebuggyarchives.com/forum/board_show.pl?bid=25 |
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Post by iseewhatudid on Aug 28, 2015 12:28:39 GMT -5
Thank you for the links jspbtown. You caught me mid putting "The Grease Ball" (original VW engine) back together. I hate grime under my nails...bleh. Good thing there are gloves. Anyway, I have been crawling TheSamba for a few weeks now which is very informative. The DuneBuggyArchives seems to have a lot of information as well. Lot of good questions so let me answer them in turn. So you plan on making this a mid-engine (just cause you mentioned you would be losing the rear package area)? Yes, the concept will be mid-engine design as the frame, I'll get better picture of it when I clear out the rubbish around it, has a rear bumper and supports for a mid mount. Though I will most likely need to fabricate motor/transmission mounts regardless. And somehow incorporating the VW pan? And rear suspension? Any idea how you will make the IRS tranny rotate the opposite direction? The family seemed to have many ideas of how to make this work but as you said, things got in the way. I've heard of people flipping the spline in the transmission but many good/bad points of doing so. The family has a mechanic shop they use a lot so I might see if they have any information about that, also one of the questions I posed above. The transmission being swung around will not be good unless the rotation is reversed. Another option, one I might have to regrettably have to consider is finding a 6 speed with overdrive Subaru transmission and axles and go that route. In my old home town I knew all the wrecking and parts yards so finding something like that was not too difficult. Here though is a bit different as there is only a couple and usually not that well stocked. And the shift linkage will have to be designed versus just shortened if you are going mid-engine right? The shift linkage I have done on several different vehicles and using a shorty was just the top end. In this case will have to go around the engine to the transmission and come from behind it to work right. I prefer having as few moving parts as possible but is do-able. Radiator placement will be where? Okay that is a biggy, the cabin bay of the Bradley GT is actually quite interesting for me as I have to scrunch down to reach the pedals with the current seat placement. Behind the bulkhead there is enough room to squeeze the radiator into. Given the Mazda radiator was for a much smaller engine do you feel it will allow for sufficient cooling given the potential air flow issues? The 2006 Subaru Impreza WRX is 26.88" x 13.44" x 0.94" and is only a single row where as the Miata is 27.25" x 16.25" x 2.25" and is dual row. Although a little taller, an inch wider and thicker I think it would be a better fit for the cooling needs than the original especially where air flow, much like on the Fiero's was limited. Also in the Fiero the radiator was mounted at an angle to accommodate the nose of the car and for better air flow with an air dam underneath to pull air up into the radiator. I plan on doing something similar but will have to make a mock up to test fit before installation. What kind of body mods are you considering? I don't understand the "sleeve over it" concept. Well in the pictures I think there is the sand rail frame. It is a mostly tubular chassis with solid floor, side guards, rear bumper and roll bar. It needs a lot of cleaning and then coated. The idea I have is a lot of measuring and cutting out the fiberglass inner of the Bradley GT only as much as needed then mounting the body over it and bolting it up. From initial measurements means the floor pan, center hump, rear storage/seating area will need to go. Also part of the rear after the wheel wells. When finished I will go back and fiberglass open areas back up for a cleaner look once the frame is how I like it. I know the pictures do not depict what I am describing well. There is a bar that goes right down the center of the car about chest high when seated that would run trough the top of the dash, a lateral support bar just behind the seat and a roll bar in the shape but just under the size of the t-top. I call it sleeve over, though there is probably a better technical name modders use, because it will literally slip over the frame with the frame being the bottom portion of the car. It will add a bit more weight to the car, which I can live with. I planned on redoing the dash anyway when I finally turn to interior but that is a ways away. I'll try to update with pictures as I go. |
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 28, 2015 13:19:37 GMT -5
Well I wish you the best of luck. You have a lot of challenges ahead of you for sure.
My only advice would be not to spend any money you can't afford to lose. Take what you have, create templates for what you don't have, and get a better idea of what is ahead of you before you open up the wallet.
Projects like this are passed around for a reason.
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Post by iseewhatudid on Aug 28, 2015 14:54:22 GMT -5
Thank you for the luck! I most certainly will need it. Set backs make most people regret kit, restored, or modded cars. I learned a long time ago to make templates and fittings with stuff like cardboard or wood before sinking money into actual pieces that might or might not work. Very sound advice. The other thing I try to do is do a lot of research and looking around before making choices. I love feedback, even if I may not agree with personally, as it helps with the overall concept. I hope to get some answers from those who are more experienced than I with this car, so I can make informed decisions.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 28, 2015 17:25:10 GMT -5
I don't think its going to be people more experienced with a Bradley...or even a VW....that can help you. Its going to be people who have heavily, heavily modified a VW based kit to the degree that you are attempting.
The Bradley GT is a basic fiberglass body. Of all the kits I have built it was the most simple.
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Post by iseewhatudid on Aug 28, 2015 21:05:10 GMT -5
Hmmm that is a very good point. Seems the dune buggy enthusiast and VW modders might be a better fit for what I am trying to accomplish.
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