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Post by skip20 on Oct 1, 2014 6:13:21 GMT -5
I found out what the vw dimmer switch does... And the previous owner had the wires plugged in wrong; so now I have hi-beams. However, now the passenger side turn signal doesn't work at all. The light on the dash will stay constantly very dimly lite. I was also comparing the wiring of the fuses to the wiring diagram and he has like 4 extra wires on there. Fix one, get two more problems. Sounds about right. |
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Post by horen2tas on Oct 1, 2014 8:20:58 GMT -5
Check the ground wires to the signals, I had that problem with the tail lights and it was all lousy grounds!
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 1, 2014 8:23:31 GMT -5
Agreed with the grounds. Dim lights suggest the circuit is feeding back looking for a ground signal.
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mogar
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Post by mogar on Oct 2, 2014 2:13:34 GMT -5
So I started with the rear of the vehicle and repaired anything questionable which ended up being about 3 grounds and tried the right directional again. I received the same results so I looked at the front right light itself and this is what I saw.  I dont know if you can tell but there is dielectric grease everywhere and at some point the white plastic circular retainer for the contacts had broken. I tried to remove it from it's plasticky death grip and ended up having to break it to remove it. So now I either need a new retainer clip or an upgrade to the 21st century. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated and yep! You guys were right! Your so smart  |
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mogar
New Member
Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on Oct 2, 2014 22:07:23 GMT -5
I got the directional working... And now my brake lights and directionals dont come on unless they are flashing Haha
I found out that the fuse had blown so I took the fuse from the accessories and used that one instead. After all that i tried to start the car. and Nothing... i looked over some wires and pushed a few plugs back in and tried it again. Im not sure if my starter is broken. It spun but it sounds like its jammed or just mashing teeth it barely turns and sounds horrible. How do i get at that thing? do i need to remove the engine? what should i check?
BTW all the lights are now working! haha until i change them over to LED's
Btw, Btw, Wow...the bradley sat in the rain yesterday and i got home from work and there was literally a 1/2 inch of water in the floor pan, it took 3 towels to remove. These things leak like civs
Things needed to fix for inspection:
1. Directional's Check
2. Hi-beams Check
3. Holes in the floor pan Check
4. Exhaust leak
5. Front suspension thing
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Post by horen2tas on Oct 3, 2014 7:06:03 GMT -5
The engine does not have to come out to change the starter, check on line for the procedure I'm sure it's documented.
Basically only one of the engine mount bolts holds one side of the starter in place, and the other nut & bolt is a short one that mounts the other side of the starter.
Starters are readily available from many auto supplies, or you can order on line from any of the major players.
I've seen them range from around $50.00 to over $200. for Hi-Torque models for competition engines.
Most people favor the starter that's used for the auto -stick Beetle because it's heavier duty.
I'd check underneath the car and see if maybe one side or the other has a loose or missing bolt or damage of some kind.
If & when you do take the starter out make sure the bearing surface where the starter inserts in the transmission housing is not chewed up.
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 3, 2014 8:25:36 GMT -5
Don't forget that when (if) you change to LEDs your flasher will not function and you will have to swap it to an electronic flasher.
Starter is a couple of bolts. Definitely go with an auto stick starter. Not only heavier duty but the snout is self supporting. It eliminates and issues with chewed up starter bushings. I get my at Autozone and/or advance auto. They come with a lifetime warranty and are inexpensive.
Getting doors to seal is a tough job. If it has butt sag that complicates the issue. A quality bulb seal will help.
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Post by Big-birds-ride on Oct 3, 2014 11:58:16 GMT -5
Probably the one that is burned out
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Post by lovecars1967 on Oct 3, 2014 13:52:20 GMT -5
Sorry I took so long it's been a busy week  |
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mogar
New Member
Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on Oct 3, 2014 22:50:31 GMT -5
$6.00 donuts, come with new brackets & bolts for both sides. Get the ex head gaskets also (4). Will need to remove the front engine sheet metal & remove the muffler to replace. Was this what you were talking about? www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1683822And you guys were suggesting i also get the exhaust head gaskets too? I like how that exhaust looks on your car, not half bad  I wonder if it will fit with the baja rear bumper? I was going to get that and use it to fix the butt sag issue im having. www.appletreeauto.com/BAJA-REAR-SHOCK-MOUNT-BUMPER-5520/?gclid=CLby97ughMECFajm7Aod91YAsgAlso the lower control arm, on the front suspension, where it connects lower torsion bar I showed in a previous picture slides in and out. Is it supposed to have that much play? thats why he said it was "loose". Why is it sliding in and out? is it worn? |
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 4, 2014 16:33:00 GMT -5
Yes...these: www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C24%2D111%2D298%2D051Those are for the muffler to the heater boxes (2). You will also need 2 of these for the muffler to the head: www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C13%2D3391Are you planning on mounting that entire bumper assembly inside your car? And then attach it to the sides somehow? Its designed to go outside and around the engine on a buggy. Will it fit inside your engine compartment? While I haven't ever had one in hand when I was building the GT2....I can't imagine it fitting without a lot of re-welding. The torsion arm should have a grub screw that sets into and indentation in the leaf pack. You loosen the lock nut, tighten the grub screw, and them tighten the lock nut. |
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mogar
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Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on Oct 4, 2014 23:03:37 GMT -5
I found this article by non-other than Skip20, (Just look a few posts above and you'll see him) bradleygt.proboards.com/thread/1673Looks like it fits just fine. "The torsion arm should have a grub screw that sets into and indentation in the leaf pack. You loosen the lock nut, tighten the grub screw, and them tighten the lock nut." Are you saying its on the lower control arm itself? or are you talking about the one where you adjust the ride height (the grub screw in the center of the torsion tube?) |
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Post by jspbtown on Oct 5, 2014 8:12:51 GMT -5
Yes...each control arm (there are 4 of them) will have a grub screw in them that fits into an indent on the leaf pack...its what keeps them from just sliding off. The grub screw is on the round section of the arm near the torsion tube. In stock form the grub screw in the center does not adjust ride height. It merely retains the leaf pack. Now if you have adjusters in the middle of the torsion tubes that's a different story...but then its really not a grub screw anymore. In this picture...on the control arm to the far right, you can see the hole where the grub screw goes. Its the same for all 4 arms. www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1394082I must have forgotten about that article by Skip. Looks like it does fit. |
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mogar
New Member
Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on Oct 5, 2014 18:11:12 GMT -5
Okay I loosened the lock nut but i couldn't tighten the grub screw any farther than it was already. :/ Maybe next time I have it in the air at the shop ill see if i can do it then. However this time the lower control arm didnt even budge in-out play. but when it was at the garage it was clearly loose. I had the tire fully up in the air.
I looked up that VW parts dealer in VT and he lives like 40 mins from me haha so i think tomo or tues im going to go down and pick up those attachments\gaskets for the exhaust.
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mogar
New Member
Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on Oct 7, 2014 20:49:57 GMT -5
Instead of buying a new lug nut I just bought some new rims, $15 for 2.  |
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garyk
New Member
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Post by garyk on Mar 6, 2015 14:23:46 GMT -5
I am considering creating a full 3d Solidworks model of the Bradley gt2 since i've found none that exist. I was just wondering if you have created this file? I would be very interested in getting a copy. I do not have a Bradley, but have thought about building one with a few mods. Autodesk 1 2 3D catch can create a 3D model from pics, if this helps. |
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garyk
New Member
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Post by garyk on Mar 19, 2015 14:06:11 GMT -5
This is the frame I was planning on using with the Bradley GT body. It would be a screamer for sure.  |
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Post by jspbtown on Mar 19, 2015 14:36:25 GMT -5
Interesting....how does the wheelbase, height and width line up?
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garyk
New Member
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Post by garyk on Mar 20, 2015 9:10:30 GMT -5
This is the what I have. If I had a solid model of a Bradley, I could see how much work it would take.
Bradley 818
94.5" Wheelbase 96"
178" Overall Length 155"
57" Front Track 59.5"
56" Rear Track 59"
48" Overall Height 52.5"
69" Overall Width 69.5"
If anyone has better numbers for the Bradley please let me know.
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mogar
New Member
Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on May 25, 2015 13:20:16 GMT -5
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mogar
New Member
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Post by mogar on Jun 1, 2015 16:54:08 GMT -5
I'm looking for the correct window seal gaskets for the T-tops does anyone know of a source?
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Post by skip20 on Jun 8, 2015 19:22:30 GMT -5
I'm looking for the correct window seal gaskets for the T-tops does anyone know of a source? Check the Ford Ranger door seal. |
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mogar
New Member
Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on Aug 9, 2015 19:16:27 GMT -5
Hey guys! I know I haven't replied in some time but I've been busy. I had to replace the exhaust as some of you know. In the process I cracked off all 8 of the exhaust studs, awesome. I've spent some time on the Samba forums and I ended up boring the studs out and had them rethreaded for m10's. They make step down studs from m10's to m8's so I should be fine. Since I had the heads I took a look at the valves and woosh did they need replacing. While I was looking at the valves I decided to check the valve guides and wouldn't you know they are out of spec. So now the engine is out, the valve guides are out, I ordered new valve guides, new valves, a oil filter attachment from CB performance, an oil pump puller, I've cleaned up the block to atleast respectable levels using a power washer, brush and engine gunk remover, I bought j-tubes and a new exhaust, all new hardware, new tin screws as well as industrial tins for the j-tubes and a new thermostat....since i broke it... I checked the starter and found that it grinds pretty heavily while turning it, so i have a new starter on order. Oh and new head studs. All of this stuff should be in by this Thursday. I removed the spacers between the 4 to 5 bolt adapter for the wheels and got 4 bolts rims. While im waiting today i decided to look at the engine bay  As you can see the heat shielding (if you could call it that) is in tatters and is held on by what seems to be aluminum rods and some screws, its covered by a black something.. before I put the engine back in or maybe after I would like to replace this, does anyone have any ideas as to how to do a decent job? Also there seems to be 2 tubes just hanging out in my engine bay covered by a clearish plastic bag. I assume these are gas line tubes but the guy mustv'e installed another line because they were never hooked up.  does anyone have any ideas as to where they go or what they were used for and why might they be disconnected in the first place? |
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Post by mischief2 on Aug 11, 2015 12:45:02 GMT -5
As far as the lines go, if they are fuel then one may be the fuel return line if the PO had an electric fuel pump setup, or he may have had 2 tanks in the car at some point. It's hard to tell what the PO's have done with these things, but those lines in the bag look more like oil lines for either a breather setup or more likely a remote oil cooler. I've seen some people mount those just above the transaxle so that seems the most likely story to me. best of luck |
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mogar
New Member
Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on Aug 15, 2015 14:55:31 GMT -5
As far as the lines go, if they are fuel then one may be the fuel return line if the PO had an electric fuel pump setup, or he may have had 2 tanks in the car at some point. It's hard to tell what the PO's have done with these things, but those lines in the bag look more like oil lines for either a breather setup or more likely a remote oil cooler. I've seen some people mount those just above the transaxle so that seems the most likely story to me. best of luck I believe your right, there is a small fan sitting under the front bumper, im not sure what its for, it might just be an oil cooler. Is there a fan thing tucked under the front bumper of bradleys? But why would it have been disconnected and why would they mount it in the front of the vehicle? |
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 15, 2015 20:50:40 GMT -5
The lines and cooler and fan are the remains of AC.
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mogar
New Member
Posts: 33
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Post by mogar on Aug 16, 2015 12:56:17 GMT -5
How is that supposed to hook up to the engine?
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 16, 2015 15:08:51 GMT -5
You have to get the build manual or a reference diagram
the hoses go to the compressor as well as the rest
of the plumbing that makes up the AC
which is mounted by a special bracket & is turned off a double pulley on the engine
most likely all that has been removed
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I wonder if it will fit with the baja rear bumper? I was going to get that and use it to fix the butt sag issue im having.
