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Post by 6g72acclaim on Jul 31, 2014 15:04:50 GMT -5
Hi guys, New to the bradley world, not new to building and modding cars. I have an 81 Bradley GT, that I saved from being scrapped. The chassis and fiberglass is all in excellent shape, but it's missing the motor and trans. I have a 1300 VW motor and trans. The trans is good, the motor needs a rebuild. Is this a good driveline for the car?
Otherwise I had thought about fabbing in my 3.0 V6 and auto trans (both built), mounting them ahead of the rear axle.
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Post by jspbtown on Jul 31, 2014 20:59:03 GMT -5
You need to figure out if the chassis is an IRS or a swing axle chassis. The chassis number will allow us to figure that out for you. Or you can take a picture of the rear of the chassis.
If its a roller than its more than likely that its an IRS. If so than just about any IRS will fit. A swing will need some parts to fit but I think it can be done. Swing chassis to IRS = special welding and fabrication. IRS chassis to swing = just some extra parts (I think).
The 1300 will be a little weak but it will move the car.
The 3.0 V6 is more work than you can imagine and you will likely spend alot of money & time and then lose interest before the car is done.
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Post by 6g72acclaim on Aug 1, 2014 9:15:00 GMT -5
You need to figure out if the chassis is an IRS or a swing axle chassis. The chassis number will allow us to figure that out for you. Or you can take a picture of the rear of the chassis. If its a roller than its more than likely that its an IRS. If so than just about any IRS will fit. A swing will need some parts to fit but I think it can be done. Swing chassis to IRS = special welding and fabrication. IRS chassis to swing = just some extra parts (I think). The 1300 will be a little weak but it will move the car. The 3.0 V6 is more work than you can imagine and you will likely spend alot of money & time and then lose interest before the car is done. It's an IRS, the 1300 needs a rebuild so I plan to build it up when I do so. As far as work, work doesn't scare me. I have an entire 3.0 parts collection, unlimited steel access, and am a machinist so cost wouldn't be much. This is not my first venture into building or custom fabbing a car. I drive a 95 acclaim with a built 3.0, and 5-speed swap, all work was done by me. I built an 88 RX7 with a supercharged 3.8 stick from the ground up also, so losing interest is not an issue. |
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 1, 2014 10:59:43 GMT -5
I certainly didn't want to suggest that you aren't capable.....I just wanted to point out the complexity of what you are considering.
While I am sure your current cars required alot of work they did not require the amount of fabrication you are considering with a 3.0 swap. Things like a cooling system. Space is very tight to get a radiator and fans in somewhere where there is good airflow. You will of course be adding an entire rear sub-structure to hold the engine and trans. That will require extensive mods to the fiberglass structure. It will also place alot of stress on a simple pan design so signicant structure will need to be added to ensure the pan doesn't fold on you. Given the very limited rear engine access you will have to think of something that will allow you to get at the motor for any work it will need. Then you will need an entirely new fuel set up since the space where the tank is mounted currently will be taken up by the motor. It can't go up front because your likely going to have to try to fit a sufficent radiator up there. Don't forget the brake upgrade because the stock VW, non-power assist brakes won't be able to stop that thing. You will also probably need to add some weight up front as well because that big motor out back will likely cause the front to get pretty loose. Again...that might be tough for space because you will have a radiator and maybe a fuel system up there.
Lots and lots to think about when trying to stuff a different motor into one of these cars. Its not like modding a Honda or Mazda for a bigger motor.
If you do decide to beef up the little old 1300cc alot make sure you do your research. There are alot of cases that don't hold up well. There are also oiling issues with the older motors as well as certain cooling issues that don't seem to accept significant increases in displacement.
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Post by 6g72acclaim on Aug 1, 2014 11:55:53 GMT -5
I do realize the extent of work it would require, which is why I want to go with the VW driveline I have. This is already planned to be a pretty long project. If the 1300 won't hold up to much I would like to go a different route.
My original 3.0 plan was to mount it behind the seats with the trans so the engine would be in front of the rear axle, to level the weight. This would also buy a ton of extra space at the rear, for radiator. The engine would be open other then a plexiglass cover over it and the firewall between the engine and driver comp. Tank and battery would be up front with a good fuel cell for safety.
I would really like to stick vw with it though for ease and not having to cut it apart.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 1, 2014 17:04:32 GMT -5
The VW plan would by far be the simplest for sure. You would definitely have to do significant cutting to that body and fiberglassing reinforcement to what was left to keep it from falling apart.
Its been a while since I built the GT but I don't recall much room for a battery up front never mind a fuel tank. It would definitely have to be an ultra custom tank for sure. I will have to go back and look at some pics of my build because I don't remember any room up there really.
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Post by 6g72acclaim on Aug 4, 2014 6:18:57 GMT -5
From what I've been reading the 1300 I have can be turned into a 1600 with a little work.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 4, 2014 8:50:18 GMT -5
yup...I agree. You can build it up to a 1600cc. Anything bigger and you might run into flow problems with the relatively small sized valves but for a modest 1600cc you would be fine.
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Post by 6g72acclaim on Aug 4, 2014 9:12:08 GMT -5
I can get my hands on a set of dual port heads from a 1600. I can also get a dual weber set up, and J-pipe exhaust. Figure these things should be helpful.
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 4, 2014 9:51:31 GMT -5
Dual port heads will clearly help. What size Webers? So no heater boxes? Do you live in a temperate climate where you don't need the heat or defrosters?
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Post by 6g72acclaim on Aug 4, 2014 11:43:48 GMT -5
Dual port heads will clearly help. What size Webers? So no heater boxes? Do you live in a temperate climate where you don't need the heat or defrosters? Not sure on the size of the webers. We'll be going without the heater boxes, seeings it will not come out of the garage other then summer. It's going to be strictly a toy for my wife and I. Car shows/Cruise-ins/etc. It's going to be a team build between us. She wants it to be relatively quick, which I figure shouldn't be hard seeings it's very light. She is also not scared to get down and dirty to keep up with it. |
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Post by 6g72acclaim on Aug 4, 2014 11:48:49 GMT -5
 Here she is.  Here's the 1300 I have. |
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 4, 2014 12:33:19 GMT -5
So are you going to convert the IRS pan over to swing? I think you might be better served to pick up a decent used IRS tranny and axles and go that route. The handling will be much bettre. And you can use the better brakes that are already on the car.
I certainly looks like a good start!
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Post by 6g72acclaim on Aug 4, 2014 15:06:29 GMT -5
Alright, see I'm new to this world, so I appreciate the help. I need to swap this trans for an IRS trans, that I should be able to do.
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