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Post by mariothemagician on Nov 21, 2013 17:01:39 GMT -5
I decided to take my crankshaft pulley out so I can sand it and paint it. I also did the heater boxes and muffler. Originally The crankshaft pulley had two wheels on it. I only put back the larger one. The bolt that threads in was fairly long. I tightened the bolt best i could only to reach 1/4 inch gap before I hit the washer. I am freaking out because I can't loosen the bolt now. Ive tried everything I know. I even put the car in 4th thinking that would stop the fly wheel but it doesn't. As I try to loosen the bolt, the car actually backs up. I am afraid I put too much torque on this bolt when I tightened it. It felt ruff as I threaded it on. I hope I didn't ruin my engine  The car runs, but the bolt isn't snug to the crankshaft pulley. Is that bad ? I ordered a shorter bolt, but have no idea how to take out the one I put on Its on so d**n tight I am making the car move! Does the engine need to be taken out? |
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Post by TexasIceMan on Nov 21, 2013 17:36:24 GMT -5
I don't think that you have damaged the engine. It sounds like you "bottomed out" the bolt in the threaded hole. When they drill and tap the holes, the grooves become very shallow near the bottom. So, I think that your bolt is wedged against those in the bottom.
I would try putting the transmission in 1st or reverse gear and place wedges under all the tires. Get the proper sized wrench with plenty of leverage and slowly, firmly, steadily apply torque to loosen the bolt. DO NOT use jerking motions!
There is a product call Liquid Wrench that is a fine lubricant that might help penetrate threads and loosen the bolt. Give it plenty of time to work its way in.
Once you get the bolt out, check it for damage. You may have galled the threads. If you see pieces of the bolt threads missing or extra metal attach, you will need to replace the bolt and tap out the threads in the engine.
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Post by horen2tas on Nov 21, 2013 17:47:10 GMT -5
I had a similar problem with getting the bolt loose, first thing is calm down when yer hyper is the time sh_t flies.
I managed to get a heavy "C" clamp tightened down on the pulley and it was siding the engine case and then like T-I man says,
go slow, apply strong even pressure with as long a breaker bar as you can manage, not jerky bench presses,
it'll come loose "Gawranteed"
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Post by TexasIceMan on Nov 21, 2013 18:54:31 GMT -5
I thought of another trick that might help. While applying good steady torque to the bolt, have someone tap on the head of the bolt with a hammer. Don't beat it to death, just a steady firm tap.
I have twisted of numerous bolts over the years. You are lucky that this is a steel-on-steel application. You have to be very careful when working with aluminum or stainless steel. When working on these older cars, you need to make sure that you completely clean the bolts and the threaded holes or nuts. The least amount of rust, dirt or debris will bind the bolt and it won't have the proper torque. Find out what the torque specifications are for each application and use a good torque wrench. This is a must when working with aluminum.
Good luck and keep us informed of your progress. We love pictures!
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 22, 2013 17:11:46 GMT -5
Hi, Mario,
All good advice.
BTW, the "extra" pulley over your primary pulley appears to be the aftermarket unit for the Coolaire-Nordic Air-conditioning system that Bradley sold back in the day. I have the same one, and can't think of any other reason for it to be there. The long bolt was included in the kit, and was needed to replace the stock bolt, which is too short to engage with both pulleys in place.
You have my CD, so when you have nothing to do but lay around, take a look at the Coolaire-Nordic manual (#10 - Bonus Section, item 05). It shows the pulley (pages 10 and 11, item 33), and explains installing the long bolt (pages 2 and 3, items 10 and 11).
In truth, enjoying your car would be greatly increased if you had the rest of the A/C system. A GT with its lids closed in summer when it's raining is enough to kill almost any human being. Nice for defogging on those summer mornings, too. If there's dew on the grass, your GT windshield is a real mess. Always keep lots terry and paper towels in the car.
Warmest regards,
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Post by mariothemagician on Nov 22, 2013 19:55:53 GMT -5
Wow thank you so much for all the advice <3 . texasiceman I am going to try what you said. I am waiting to receive the shorter bolt from the mail. I feel so stupid! The bolt felt ruff all the way through. I hope I get it out right. horen2tas I am also taking your advice too, that's why I haven't been in the garage at all for the past 2 days! I need to step back and chill. lol Jeff Thank you for writing also. I love your CD!!! It has helped me too much for words. I was able to do a lot of stuff right the first time because of the cd. I had no idea the bolt was made special for AC. I won't even ask on how to start with getting the right equipment to put AC in the Bradley right now. But before summer if all goes well I would LOVE to do that!  Thank you all again! |
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Post by mariothemagician on Nov 27, 2013 9:46:13 GMT -5
I did it! Thank you guys so much for the tips. I put the car into 4th gear, placed wood blocks under each tire. I used a cheater bar and slowly pushed. Nothing happened until I started lightly tapping with the hammer, it just freed itself up every time I tapped. Thank you <3 Happy holidays |
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The car runs, but the bolt isn't snug to the crankshaft pulley. Is that bad ? I ordered a shorter bolt, but have no idea how to take out the one I put on 
