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Post by mercer77 on Oct 19, 2013 8:43:49 GMT -5
I was going to do a simple 1776 build, but the more I read on the Samba, the more I am leaning towards a 2027. I know of the potential problems. I want something that will justify the stance/look of the car. It will be a daily driver. Is this too much motor for the weight ? (If there is such a thing  ) I was curious what you guys/gals ran with? |
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Oct 19, 2013 18:05:24 GMT -5
If you are going that big get a 2.0l type 4 injected out of a 75 to 79 bus. Cheaper, More torque, more reliable. Did it to my Manx. Incredibly quick.    |
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Post by mercer77 on Oct 30, 2013 15:26:50 GMT -5
Is anyone running a 1776? How does it "feel"?
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Post by gitrdun on Nov 2, 2013 19:10:25 GMT -5
I am running an 1835 big bore cylinder kit in mine with the compression bumped up a hair. Its a bit more peppy than a stock motor but for a sports car its still pretty lame IMO. Just for comparison sake, i had a GEO Storm 2.0L 4 banger about 20 years ago and that tin can would outrun the Bradley with ease. These motors just werent made to be sports car motors. Not that a GEO Storm was a real sports car by any means but it had more modern tech.
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Post by mercer77 on Apr 21, 2014 19:27:35 GMT -5
Decided to build a 1904 (90.5x74). A little more peep and still decent gas mileage. Just ordered the parts  I hope to get it back on the road soon. |
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 22, 2014 8:30:37 GMT -5
I think I installed a 1915 into the orange Bradley. It moved pretty well. A little slow off the line and would run out of steam at the top end but the mid-range operation was snappy.
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Post by mj on Jun 16, 2014 19:42:47 GMT -5
2165cc with nickesil cylinders, big heads, split cam, zero-lash roller rockers, dual-dual 40mm webers, h-beam connecting rods, 4-1 wrapped headers, rancho hd transmission & custom gears, dual oil coolers, oil filter, oil thermostat, full-flow oil system. Was fast. Now has a misfire. Hasn't been driven for six years.
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Post by mercer77 on Jun 26, 2014 6:41:51 GMT -5
*Should I start a new thread with any problems that arise?
I received most of my part so far (except cam) for my 1904 build.
Problem: The pistons will stick out of the cylinder by .038" on one side and .043" on the other. I would like to run 9:1 compression but, do I have to have .040" clearance between top of piston and bottom of head.
I have heard of some running zero deck. With the cbperformance calculator I would be at .003 to run 9:1.
Or will the valves come down too far?
Engine:
74 CW crank
90.5 pistons
1.25 rockers
L3 heads (should be 59cc but I have not checked)
40 IDF
Web Cam 163
new case that was decked
Thanks,
Andrew
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Post by mercer77 on Jul 3, 2014 17:32:59 GMT -5
Wow. I must have been either asleep or drunk when I posted the previous question. For all of those curious about the answer:
You should have the heads fly cut down to 53cc.
You MUST run at least .040" clearance between piston and where the barrel meets the head chamber.
Some heads have a step in them, which these people can get away with what they call "zero deck" but it is really the step that gives the .040" or more clearance.
After the heads are cut to 53cc you would need the proper barrel shims or spacers to get the piston to be inside the barrel by .040"
Which would be .080" or so of shims/spacers.
*Sometimes you can get away with less clearance but I would not recommend it.
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geddes66
Junior Member
Now I am an instructor at the RTS-M, Camp Roberts CA. Teaching new Army mechanics.
Posts: 87
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Post by geddes66 on Aug 10, 2014 22:15:26 GMT -5
Jeff Troy ran a 1776 for years and several hundreds of thousands of miles. Great engine. The lightness of the car allows these engines to really get up and move.
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Post by mj on Aug 11, 2014 12:31:47 GMT -5
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 12, 2014 16:26:46 GMT -5
Hi, Chris and Group, The engine that lasted 645,000 miles was a 1641, not a 1776. I rebuilt it once after 340,000, then did the next 325K on the rebuild. The valve seats were so destroyed that I had to exceed 2500 rpm just to keep it from dying. The car has been in the garage for the past three summers, but I have recently finished building a new 1776, which is now installed. The body is separated and inverted over a sawhorse dolly, and the underbody cleanup is almost complete. I have a new stainless instrument panel, and have only to wire the switches before I flip the body back over and reinstall it. I also added coil-over, adjustable shocks to slightly raise and even out the ride height without messing with the front and rear-end torsion systems. I usually do a body-off and cleanup on my GT every five years, but the last one was in 2000 when I reinstalled the air-conditioning system (thought I'd be okay without it after the 1994-96 full restoration, but one drive on a rainy summer day was all it took to show me the error of my thinking). Body off, air back in, I drive happy. I also have two blowers mounted for better-than-average heat. Anyway, I expect the new 1776 to be all I need and more. I have a Freeway Flyer transaxle, and at 3,000 rpm, the 1641 would do 70 all day long on 1000-mile-plus road trips. I used all the 1641's top-end parts for my new 1776: Kadron dual carburetors, Gene Berg Dual Quiet Pack exhausts and collector, Pertronix electronic ignition, standard VW oil cooler with a heavy-duty oil pump, and an oil sump. I don't hot rod the car. I take care of it, and in return, it drives nicely -- for years and years and thousands and thousands of miles. Here's a link to a few images in my original post about the new engine: bradleygt.proboards.com/thread/2049/new-1776-engine-gtI'll post additional images when it's back on the road in a couple of weeks. Warmest regards, |
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Post by cocacoladodge on Aug 13, 2014 9:23:40 GMT -5
Wow, am I the only one running a stock 1500 single-port w/vac adv dist? I have no idea what has been done to the 1600 in my other one, but I have dual Deletto 40s on it and plenty of power.
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