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Post by horen2tas on Aug 5, 2013 6:57:01 GMT -5
I'm needing to do the upper lower engine compartment separation on my twoie. Went out for an extended run of delivering a few errands and at the last stop the engine started to crap out at a traffic light. Since I was on a hill I rolled and popped the clutch managing to get it going after sputtering and coughing. Pulled into the last stop and parked with the engine idling OK. did my business and started to back up and the engine died on me. With my foot on the clutch (I was in reverse) I turned the key and the starter made a really sickly sound like the battery was going dead. Now here's the weird thing and my Question for the Experts: with the gear shift in neutral, the starter cranked like it normally should but it still would not start. Traced it to no fuel coming from the pump (mechanical pump) I think the problem there is what Eric A is talking about the pump rod could have seized in the up position have to wait until tomorrow to see if it starts and runs. But my big question for the experts is what caused the starter to bind and sound like the battery was dead when I cranked it with the clutch in and in reverse and it cranked just fine in Neutral?
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 5, 2013 7:41:08 GMT -5
Hi Mike, But my big question for the experts is what caused the starter to bind and sound like the battery was dead when I cranked it with the clutch in and in reverse and it cranked just fine in Neutral? Either the clutch cable needs adjusting, the throwout arm is flexing, the throwout arm bushings are worn, the throwout bearing is bad, or your pilot bearing is dry and needs re-lubed. Take your pick! Gary Hammond,
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Eric A
Full Member
It's an obsession not an investment!
Posts: 223
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Post by Eric A on Aug 5, 2013 12:06:02 GMT -5
I second the bad clutch adjustment or maybe you have a clutch cable that is about to snap. I had that happen too. Eric A
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 5, 2013 12:23:34 GMT -5
What baffles me is if the car is in gear and the clutch pedal out and I turn the starter the car will move, at the time it happened with the clutch pedal in it wouldn't crank, and would make a click and fizzle type of noise. Never had that with any VW I've owned. Plus the cable is fairly new (although I've seen new ones break) Guess I have to jack it up and try and see what's going on.
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Post by trimagnum on Aug 5, 2013 19:31:37 GMT -5
"But my big question for the experts is what caused the starter to bind and sound like the battery was dead when I cranked it with the clutch in and in reverse and it cranked just fine in Neutral? " A short in the back up light harness?
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 5, 2013 19:44:16 GMT -5
That's a good one trimagnum!!
good shooting, I'll check that!
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Post by skip20 on Aug 5, 2013 20:13:22 GMT -5
"But my big question for the experts is what caused the starter to bind and sound like the battery was dead when I cranked it with the clutch in and in reverse and it cranked just fine in Neutral? " A short in the back up light harness? Funny, I have the same problem with the 1835 in my VW Trike. The clutch has to be push in in order to start, safety switch. Sometime I get just a click & other time the started goes in but won't turn. After a few try's then it starts & run great. Hot or cold & doesn't happen all the time.
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 5, 2013 22:20:24 GMT -5
Can't be sure but I think I got the opposite problem from you Skip, with the clutch pushed down in reverse I'm getting a clicking and whirring noise like the battery is dead or the starter is bad. In neutral without the clutch down it cranks OK.
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stevevw
Full Member
Part VW part Porsche , all Bradley
Posts: 117
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Post by stevevw on Aug 14, 2013 1:21:20 GMT -5
Going with a bad trans to frame grounding strap and you are getting ground trough you clutch cable .
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 14, 2013 7:18:26 GMT -5
I'll check that since its up on jack stands now, but I recently picked up on a thread from MJ who used welding cable for ground front to back which I did and also replaced the trans to frame strap.
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Post by cocacoladodge on Aug 15, 2013 10:46:45 GMT -5
I had a simulacra problem with the starting system my GT in the spring. I just wired in a push button starter. I wired direct from battery to fuse to button to starter. its out of sight behind the padded roll-bar so not just anyone can see it and be gone, besides, the key still has to be turned on :-) . 3/4 of the time the key works fine, but it was embarrassing for me having to have it towed home...
The few times I had to use it really have paid off.
But a clutch cable... Haven't had to do that, yet. Now watch i will have to now that i mentioned it.
What happens if a clutch cable breaks when you are in gear? i know you will slow down after you kill the engine, but can you still shift into neutral?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 15, 2013 16:52:18 GMT -5
As long as you are moving you can shift through all gears as necessary. Just match the engine speed with the trans speed. Shift to neutran then to the gear you want. When you cone to a stop shift to neutral first and then shut it off. When ready to go put it in first gear THEN start it up.
Not the reverse lights. If they short they will blow the reverse fuse. If there is no fuse it will kill the ignition by burning the power to coil wire, The starter will not be affected. If the main trans to chassis ground is bad it will crank better when the clutch is depressed. This eventually heats the cable enough to stretch it and will break if you keep adjusting it. Stepping on the clutch pushes the crankshaft back. How is the end play on your engine? Clutch out of adjustment will cause your problem. Bad #1 crank bearing will also cause it as the crack moves back then off to the side. When the starter engages it causes the flywheel teeth to contact the transmission mount bolts. Possible random incident as a result of a bad starter bushing. Dont forget that starters have a bushing at each end.
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