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Post by 48flatbed on Apr 10, 2013 11:28:02 GMT -5
Well I am joining the ranks of the Bradley GTII owners. I picked mine up last night. The engine has been rebuilt. It has the EMPI 9530 solid trans mount, not sure if I will like that. The brakes have been rebuilt with new cylinders in the back, new MC, front disk brake conversion. The front has new ball joints, tierod ends,steering box and dampner. The body needs alot of work but I think it is complete. I will post pics ASAP.
Jon
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 10, 2013 13:51:50 GMT -5
Welcome to the family. I doubt you will like the solid mounts as they transmit a lot of vibration throughout the car. A tip for you. There are basically 3 types of rubber mounts. Early mounts  What is being sold as HD mounts. Same thing as the early. Late mounts  As long as you are using a VW trans. I recommend that you upgrade to the late mounts 73 to 79. They are far superior to the early design in that should the rubber separate the metal parts interconnect and will not allow the trans/engine to lift off of the frame horns. It does require a different spreader bar but one can easily be made if you do not have one.  Avoid all urethane products, they have no business being on a VW. They wear out fast and some are a major accident just waiting to happen. |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 10, 2013 14:18:40 GMT -5
Welcome to the Twoie group  |
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Post by 48flatbed on Apr 10, 2013 18:53:24 GMT -5
Thanks for the info on the mounts Dan. Here are some pics. It is raining here so this is all I could get.    Jon |
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zaucy
Full Member
Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Apr 10, 2013 19:32:31 GMT -5
what is Twoie? I have read it here so much and just figured it wouldn't show up anymore but everyone is saying it!
Welcome to the club!
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 10, 2013 19:35:34 GMT -5
I recommend you seal off the hot side of the engine from the cold side. Looks like it does not run. Some vac hoses are wrong, Some hoses missing. Post closer pics of your engine.
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Post by skip20 on Apr 10, 2013 21:08:53 GMT -5
what is Twoie? I have read it here so much and just figured it wouldn't show up anymore but everyone is saying it! Welcome to the club! That's short for Bradley GT II |
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Post by skip20 on Apr 10, 2013 21:11:00 GMT -5
Watch out for that Dan MacMillan, he's an Ace Grease Monkey & will nick pick your pictures & send you in the right way.
Helped me many times on my VW engine.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 10, 2013 23:00:53 GMT -5
Just noticed your calipers. If your cal has 2 bleeder screws all is fine. If there is only 1 then they are upside down. Intake manifold has been hacked. The heat riser tubes are missing. You will need a new one. Not only do they prevent carb icing but they provide support for the carb.
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Post by 48flatbed on Apr 10, 2013 23:58:34 GMT -5
Thanks again Dan. I havent had the wheels off so I dont know about the bleeders, will check when I get a chance. The brakes do work well so I figure they were bled somehow. I didnt know about the heat riser tubes providing extra carb support. None of the VW engines I have currently have heat riser tubes because they have either dual carbs or two barrel manifolds so Im not familiar with these. Jon
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Post by jspbtown on Apr 11, 2013 8:46:23 GMT -5
"Looks like it does not run. Some vac hoses are wrong, Some hoses missing. Post closer pics of your engine. "
I bet the lack of spark plug wires would limit the running too!
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Post by 48flatbed on Apr 11, 2013 10:21:42 GMT -5
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Post by dawgdk on Apr 11, 2013 13:31:12 GMT -5
Great looking car you have to start with!! I have seen people start with complete basket cases and others start with good cars that end up basket cases! lol Good luck on your car and don't let anything or anybody disuade you from finishing it.
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Post by whcgt on Apr 11, 2013 15:43:30 GMT -5
Clean that thing & inventory what you have, before any re-assembly of components. Also, the round holes in your dash pad, are for VW Bus circle vents.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 11, 2013 17:02:57 GMT -5
From what I can see, The nipple that comes off the oil filler pointing down should be connected to the air filter top or bottom plate. Get rid of the braided fuel hose. Install new rubber hose without braid and clamp every end. Safety wire the outlet of the fuel pump and inlet to the carb. Do not install a fuel filter anywhere near the engine, especially between the pump and carb. You will get better performance using an SVDA distributor {single side vac can}. Do you have J tubes or stripped down heat exchangers on cyl 1 and 3? Full heat exchangers would be better than J tubes even if you do not run the heat into the car. The blocked air outlets on the shroud should be left open. When hooked up properly to a set of heat exchangers they always flow air over the exchangers {both when heat is required in the car and when heat is turned off} This provides extra cooling of the heads by cooling off the pipes. Blocking the shroud outlets when not using heat just messes up the airflow withing the shroud by causing turbulence. The result is a hotter running engine. If you want to block the shroud you need to remove the outlets and flush cover the resulting hole. It looks like the throttle cable guide tube that passes through the shroud is also missing. Plug wires are wrong. The ones you have are not in the right order. Firing order is 1432 clockwise. Assuming the dist is indexed correctly then looking down on the dist, 1 is RR 4 is LR 3 is LF 2 is RF, like this
3 2
Coil
4 1
Cyl location is
3 1
2 4
To be sure of the location of #1 wire. Bring the #1 cyl to TDC compression then look where the rotor is pointing.
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Post by 48flatbed on Apr 12, 2013 9:56:28 GMT -5
Thanks all for the comments!
@ Dan- currently it has J-tubes but I have some exchangers I will install. I wondered about the plugged outlets on the shroud I will hook them up when the exchangers are installed.
@ whcgt-I have a few extra Bus vents to fill the dash holes. That will probably be the only heat vents in the car. There will be some fresh air vents though.
Jon
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Post by bigfuninc on Apr 13, 2013 9:08:54 GMT -5
Any pictures around of the cold side/hot side divided up on a Bradley 1?i looked at mine and does not look like an easy project?Are you referring to the stock engine tin complete?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 13, 2013 9:32:02 GMT -5
Yes stock cooling tins with a custom filler piece. A GT would be easier to do than a GT2. Could not find any good examples of a GT, so here is a GT2 with VW engine  This is my GT2 when I ran the Corvair.  The filler can lay over top of the stock tins with a foam rubber seal between the two. I used foam pipe insulation just kept it away from the hot exhaust parts. |
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Post by bigfuninc on Apr 13, 2013 10:16:22 GMT -5
thanks.Gives a starting point
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 13, 2013 13:54:26 GMT -5
Do not physically attach it to the engine tins with fasteners of any kind as was done in the first photo.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Apr 14, 2013 5:33:35 GMT -5
My 69 ghia. As the engine is fully exposed I used flat stainless.  |
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Post by bigfuninc on Apr 14, 2013 9:10:59 GMT -5
very nice thanks.i have not seen a lot of Bradley motor compartments
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Point out anything else you catch also! Oh and I do have another intake manifold that has the risers. You are correct about the support you can spin this one in the couplers! Wasn't doubting just didn't understand till I tried moving the carb.
