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Post by rizzo81 on Feb 5, 2013 16:06:31 GMT -5
Ok i took my 73 Bradley to an auto shop to get the breaks fixed ( which is a nightmare) and ask them to also try to put turn signals in the front of the car. Little led ones. Well i got a call back and he said that there is no power to the front of the car. He said it needed a turn signal switch and also a new hazard light swith(i knew that was broke). He stated that t he power all goes threw the hazard light switch. Dose anyone know where i can get a hazard light switch or any other way to solve this any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks Attachments:
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Post by Wyn on Feb 5, 2013 18:20:11 GMT -5
Sounds like you need to find another Shop. What wiring do you have, is it stock GT2? What Steering column do you have? You should be able to get the turn switch if it is a VW column. That is if the column is made to take the dimmer sw and the turn sw. You may need a new steering column, the earlier columns don't have room for the turn signal sw. The power does not go through the hazard light switch. It may use a post as a common point for power, But you have other points to get power for the turn signals. The hazard sws are hard to find. I like your color of paint. Wyn
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Post by smyrnaguy on Feb 5, 2013 18:53:30 GMT -5
If you currently have incandescent turn signals in the rear you may simply tie into those wires to power the front LEDs on each side. Assuming of course that your LED light is rated at 12v.
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Post by rizzo81 on Feb 6, 2013 3:43:07 GMT -5
Wyn as far as i can tell its stock gt2. Ive seen a buch of people have the same one. None of my turn signals work as of now. I got the car last month and now i kind of know why i thought i got a good deal. If the dimmer switch is on the cluster, none of them work. The breaks alone are costing me close to a grand so far. Yes i need a new shop! The car runs like a top. But to get it street legal i need the turn signals and seat belts thats all that is holding me back. I love the color to thats what kinda drew me to that bradley.
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Post by rizzo81 on Feb 6, 2013 3:43:31 GMT -5
Wyn as far as i can tell its stock gt2. Ive seen a buch of people have the same one. None of my turn signals work as of now. I got the car last month and now i kind of know why i thought i got a good deal. If the dimmer switch is on the cluster, none of them work. The breaks alone are costing me close to a grand so far. Yes i need a new shop! The car runs like a top. But to get it street legal i need the turn signals and seat belts thats all that is holding me back. I love the color to thats what kinda drew me to that bradley.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 6, 2013 4:43:41 GMT -5
If you currently have incandescent turn signals in the rear you may simply tie into those wires to power the front LEDs on each side. Assuming of course that your LED light is rated at 12v. This will work however the front turn signals will come on with the brakes, the same way the rears do. The hazard switch can be bypassed quite easily to correct the problem
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 6, 2013 11:47:12 GMT -5
It all depends on how the car was wired. You never know. The GT2 also uses a module for the brakes and blinkers. This module may be bad.
Fixing wiring problems when you have no experience in them is almost impossible. If you aren't comfortable chasing circuits and using test lights and ohm meters I don't think anyone here will be able to give you a magic pill to fix it. 99% of the time its not like "check the fuse" simple (although I would check the fuse!).
And $1000 for VW brakes is likely against the law...
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Post by rizzo81 on Feb 6, 2013 12:47:21 GMT -5
jspbtown the back breaks where totally gone. Also needed wheel cylinders in the back and one in front. They said they would have to take the axles out to do it. I work on the river and am only home maybe 3 months a year so its really hard for me to get hands on
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 6, 2013 13:04:58 GMT -5
Here is a kit for $130 that has 4 wheel cylinders, hoses, shoes, and hardware. Basically everything you need except new drums. www.socalautoparts.com/product_info.php/aftermarket/brake-rebuild-kit-rubber-hoses-p-13537I have rebuilt brake from the ground up on kits. I am not aware of any year Beetle that would require axles to be removed to do any brake job. If its a standard IRS or even swingaxle set up I can assure you there is absolutely no reason to remove the axles. If they told you that they lied.
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Post by rizzo81 on Feb 6, 2013 15:47:39 GMT -5
Yeah looks like im the one getting axed here! Time to fire that shop and look for a new one. Thank you so much!
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zaucy
Full Member
Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Feb 6, 2013 20:07:43 GMT -5
Yeah, there is no reason to remove the axle for the brakes, at least that is the case for my Bradley GTII and 69 Rambler (Drum brakes seem pretty universally designed). $1000 dollars is insanely expensive too!!! The brakes on the Ghia frame are extremely easy to replace, you definitely should go to a new shop. If you figure out the turn signals/hazards let me know what the issue was, mine currently aren't working either.
Thanks
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 6, 2013 21:55:32 GMT -5
$1000 will buy you the entire 4 wheel disk conversion and the instructions on how to install it. I'd be going back and asking for a breakdown on the labor. Lets assume that it is a 73 beetle chassis.
I have the labor guide in front of me at this moment.
Chilton labor guide states 1.5 renew front shoes includes adj add .2 to repack bearings 1.5 renew rear shoes includes adj 2.2 renew all shoes renew brake springs, freebie if doing shoes. renew wheel cyl 1.5 hrs each includes bleeding as long as nothing else is done if brakes are being done then it is .5 per cyl
renew brake drum front .9 rear .5 Freebie if doing shoes or wheel cyl as they have to come off and are included in the renew shoe labor.
machine drum add .5 front .3 rear
the back breaks where totally gone. Also needed wheel cylinders in the back and one in front.
one front cyl 1.5 hrs 2 rear cyls is 1 hr rear shoes and new drums is 1.5
Total 4 hrs by the book. In reality it takes no longer than 2 hrs in a shop.
Rear axle nut torque is 220 ft/lbs. If they did not properly torque these nuts you WILL be buying new drums shortly.
Under no circumstances do the axles have to be removed on any air cooled VW product to do a brake job.
If they cannot come down close to these times then take them to the better business bureau
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Post by rizzo81 on Feb 7, 2013 4:30:36 GMT -5
I did call them and ask. They said to do it right. Parts where about 375 and then labor is 65 an hour.
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 7, 2013 9:30:27 GMT -5
They lied.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 7, 2013 20:02:49 GMT -5
Not only did they lie. They crossed their fingers and toes and tightened their but cheeks hoping you would believe them. 375 in parts 625 labor at 65 per hour is 9.6 hours. What did they do spend 5 hours drinking beer?
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Post by jspbtown on Feb 8, 2013 13:54:15 GMT -5
Must have been 2.5 hours per side to remove the axle.......
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Post by TexasIceMan on Feb 8, 2013 14:06:31 GMT -5
If I drank beer for 5 hours, it would probably take me 9.6 hours to do a brake job.
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Post by TexasIceMan on Feb 8, 2013 14:06:48 GMT -5
If I drank beer for 5 hours, it would probably take me 9.6 hours to do a brake job.
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zaucy
Full Member
Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Feb 8, 2013 23:12:25 GMT -5
HAHAHAHA
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Post by trimagnum on Feb 9, 2013 1:29:55 GMT -5
When shops pull that kind of funny business it gives a bad name to the whole industry. I know it might seem harsh to call them out on it or report them . Looking at it logically it's the right thing to do to prevent others from being robbed like you were . The one thing we can do in life is not let people treat us like door mats . Lets face it you deserve better than that .
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 9, 2013 4:42:45 GMT -5
When shops pull that kind of funny business it gives a bad name to the whole industry. I know it might seem harsh to call them out on it or report them . Looking at it logically it's the right thing to do to prevent others from being robbed like you were . The one thing we can do in life is not let people treat us like door mats . Lets face it you deserve better than that . I agree 100%. Being an professional Interprovincial licensed mechanic, I feel the effects of dishonest wanabees.
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zaucy
Full Member
Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Feb 10, 2013 5:45:18 GMT -5
Hey Dan,
Just want to thank you for pointing out the rear wheel nut torque value. I have been driving it around on somewhere around 20 ft/lbs. My 69 Rambler didn't need much torque on nearly identical nuts so I just assumed it was the same. Checked my manual and you were right. Fortunately the teeth in my rear drums are still completely intact.
Thanks
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 10, 2013 18:26:03 GMT -5
That's why they pay me the big bucks LOL.
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Post by skip20 on Feb 10, 2013 20:46:35 GMT -5
That's why they pay me the big bucks LOL. Haven't you heard, due inflation, your pay has been cut by 2/3's
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 11, 2013 7:17:45 GMT -5
That explains it. 60% lost due to inflation, 35% income tax, 13% sales tax, Canada pension, employment insurance, union dues, coverall rental....no wonder I live below the poverty line. Isn't it great that this hobby is inexpensive compared to restoring other makes of automobiles.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 11, 2013 8:29:34 GMT -5
Any way lets get this back on topic. rizzo81 how much progress have you made on the lights? The lighting circuit is pretty straight forward. If the steering column is from a VW then there is the need for the rear signal module as the signal light switch is not designed for common brake and signal. If it fails then any trailer light module that converts separate brake and signal to common brake and signal will work. Hazard sw, signal switch, brake switches are all available at www.cip1.comIf you have the stock VW wiring then the brake sw output does not go near the signal circuit. therefore you must use the brake module. Here is the 72 diagram, easier to understand than the 73 and basically the same. Other year VW Beetle diagrams are at www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.phpHere are the GT2 diagrams in color All you need to diagnose the issue is a 12v NON LED test light. It must have an incandescent bulb. Brake circuit. Power to brake switches on master {may need key on}/ leaves master when pedal pressed. and heads to module. All signal light wires pass through the hazard switch. It has the ability to join the left side of the car to the right side so all 4 flash together . There may be only one combination VW flasher or 2 "normal looking flashers. They may be 3 terminal or 2 terminal units. As the GT2 uses 2 dash indicators they are wired directly to the outputs to the front signals. This can be wired in many different ways. I prefer to mod the systen to use two 2 term flashers as they are simple to understand/cheaper and available everywhere. Don't forget that this car is made of fiberglass so ALL components need a separate ground wire going to the chassis. Let me know what you come up with.
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Post by skip20 on Feb 11, 2013 10:53:10 GMT -5
Thats GREAt, just printed as 4 pages & taped it together.
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Post by rizzo81 on Feb 11, 2013 12:19:32 GMT -5
I haven't made any progress. I work on a tow boat and wont be back on land till the 27th. I was trying to get the "shop" to do it for me but we all now no. Ill never ask them to do another thing. As soon as i get home. I will get right on this.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Feb 11, 2013 15:26:04 GMT -5
Feel free to post your results/ problems and questions
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zaucy
Full Member
Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Mar 27, 2013 1:32:58 GMT -5
If the steering column is from a VW then there is the need for the rear signal module as the signal light switch is not designed for common brake and signal. If it fails then any trailer light module that converts separate brake and signal to common brake and signal will work. When you say "rear signal module" do you mean what is called the "conversion box" in the big blue book? It's a copper yellowish box that the brake signal, left/right signal, and hazard signal go into, and it outputs to the rear brake lights. How common is it for the conversion box to quit working? I have the feeling that mine dose not work. Only my driver side tail light will blink, but not my passenger side for hazard or right blinker. reasons I think its the conversion box: 1) both brake lights work, which shows that the two output wires that goes to the taillights are maintaining connection. 2) The blinker/hazard relays are realying and the and the two front orange lights work how they are supposed to, so I know the positive voltage connection is being made for both the left and right side. 3) the blinker and hazard switch each have separate sets of wires going to the conversion box which would make it unlikely BOTH sets of right wires have bad connections. Also tested with multimeter, and there is a positive voltage at the conversion box connection when needed. So it must be my conversion box, right? Where can I buy a replacement, will a trailer light module replace this? thanks
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