zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 6, 2012 3:44:54 GMT -5
Has anyone here installed a stereo system into a Bradley GTII with front LR speakers in the door panels? It doesn't seem too hard, assuming the edge around the window in the door is hollow for wiring and behind the interior on the hard top. Also assuming you can find a good door grommet for sale like these, Jonathan
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Post by onelowzuki on Dec 6, 2012 8:53:56 GMT -5
Mine had 5 inch speakers in the doors wired up through to the hinge area when I got it, I have since stripped the body down but I know it was done. Not sure how the wire was routed since My son is the one that removed them for me. Thats the most info I can get for you.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 6, 2012 11:49:07 GMT -5
Mine are in the footwell area, I glassed stainless steel bowls from the buck store on the back side in the inner fender area to waterproof them and increase bass response. Tweeters are within the rocker structure so are automatically covered on the back. Lot less strain on the door and lift cylinders. Had I put them in the door I would use the 4 contact pins like those found on the sliding doors of 2002 Ford winstars. I uaed some fom an early 80's Chevy Astro Van for my remote door solenoids. Pins in door plates in door sill
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zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 6, 2012 13:35:41 GMT -5
That's an awesome idea, Thanks! I initially was thinking the footwell, too. Personally, though, I would rather have them in the door panels.
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Post by horen2tas on Dec 6, 2012 14:04:25 GMT -5
I think the sound response is better in the foot-wells plus the whole area is more megaphone shaped. My bass-woofers are behind in the panels under the quarter windows, driving with all the road & muffler noise is easily drowned out by the sound system, to me the door panels would be better real estate for making arm rests that open to hold things like cd's and other stuff.
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Post by Wyn on Dec 6, 2012 22:03:14 GMT -5
I found this connector assembly at Jeggs made by Painless Performance. They come in 1, 2, 3, 4, & 5 pin configurations. Wyn
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Post by Wyn on Dec 6, 2012 23:06:20 GMT -5
Glass-Action makes a set of under dash speaker panels for the Bugs, With a little triming they should fit the GT2s Wyn www.glass-action.com/bug.htmlGlass-Action PO Box 27265 Prescott Valley, AZ 86312
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zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 7, 2012 0:31:11 GMT -5
Oh wow, thanks Wyn. I wasn't really aware of these wireless contacts for door jambs. I may use those, but horen2tas has a good point about using the wheel wells and making arm rests. I don't really want arm rests now, but I may want some later.
Also, where has everyone placed their stereos? I see that Dan moved the switches and placed his there. The guy I bought my GTII from had the glove box panel cut out and a glove box hing and handle kit. I plan on putting the glove box door in and then fabricating about a 1" deep glove box with a stereo mounted in the center. Also plan on having an iPod connector behind the door with some sort of pocket to hold the iPod while driving.
I know the glove box area isn't ideal because of the distance, but I figured I don't want to be messing with a stereo while driving considering how much of a death trap the car already is, haha. I'm just trying to get an idea of what to do, I don't plan on installing a stereo until about summer if I have the cash.
Thanks guys, Jonathan
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Post by Wyn on Dec 7, 2012 8:50:54 GMT -5
I have mounted a video monitor and stereo in the instruments cluster panel and mounted all the gauges in the dash in front of the driver. I am going to expaned PVC plastic sheet material as a bazel for around the monitor and stereo. I have also picked up a 3" video monitor I'll mount on the dash above the steering column. I'll use it for a digital tach and for digital display of hi beam, oil pressure, and any other fault indicators. Wyn
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Post by smyrnaguy on Dec 7, 2012 8:54:01 GMT -5
I don't have a GTII (but one day I will) but I do have an opinion/observation. I agree with Dan that locating speakers in the doors will probably require heftier door lift cylinders as the additional weight will be outboard of the fulcrum point. That said I've used the contactors that Wyn suggested in my Hupmobile for the power windows in the suicide doors and they worked great. However if you need a speaker circuit or even a courtesy light in the lower door (I'm installing the latter in my GT1) you don't need those connectors. I'd suggest connecting the positive lead to one and the negative to the other door hinge as long as the two are not bonded together electrically. No additional holes to drill, no visible wires in the jambs.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 7, 2012 9:26:07 GMT -5
Great idea. Never thought of that. But it raises one concern. Will the hinge supply a constant connection or will it cut in and out over bumps.
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Post by Wyn on Dec 7, 2012 9:58:01 GMT -5
I have thought about too. You could run a short grounding strap from one side of the hinge to the other. You know like what we do with the rag joint in the steering system.
Wyn
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 7, 2012 10:29:50 GMT -5
The connectors Wyn shows look nice but it will be difficult to ensure they line up and always make full contact. That is why I used the sliding door contacts. Much bigger target and as my doors flex a bit when closed, they always stay connected. By placing them at the bottom of the door/ top of the sill there is lots of room internally for the switch and wiring. I put the radio below the gauges because it is one of those things that you don't have to access too much compared to the switches. The "normal " switches are to the left of the steering column but a little different. This location makes them very convinient to access. The heat switch will be changed to be a heat/ac selection switch if I complete my plans this winter. All switches came from Princess auto {comparible to harbour freight} $2 each. I used a variety of on/off and on/on switches. On the right of the column are the switches that control fan and fan speed. As the glovebox is prety useless I used it to house the monitor for my rear view camera. Still some finishing touches to do.
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Post by Wyn on Dec 7, 2012 11:33:53 GMT -5
To align the contact assemblys pick out a good location, drill a small hole in the door, close the door and latch it, from inside the door, drill through the small hole into the door frame now you have alignment for one end of the contact assembly. Eazy enough. Wyn
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zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 7, 2012 16:26:35 GMT -5
Wow, you guys have really customized your Bradleys. Thanks for all the pictures and ideas. Wyn, I remember seeing that picture at one point before joining the forum, I like everything you did. I looked up those switches you bought, they are nice but pretty expensive :/ I also like your placement of the stereo Dan, it seems like a relatively easy job to do and most logical. The hinge trick seems like a good and simple idea, I would have never thought of it, but if you're using a jamb connector for the positive lead then might as well do it for the negative, too.
I still really like my idea of putting the stereo behind the glove box door, I feel like it will be really clean to have the original look but still have a stereo; not to mention protection from the wandering eyes. I don't plan on putting any other extras in, like a backup camera, so I think it will be safe to use up that space for the stereo. I was just curious about everyone's stereo setup, for ideas and suggestions. Thanks for all the great ideas so far, guys.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 7, 2012 16:44:16 GMT -5
It is not a backup camera, it is a rear view camera. Much needed in the GT2 as it is full of blind spots. I even have backup radar sensors that trigger at 4 feet.beep.......beep........beep, 3 feet beep..beep,,beep, 2 feet beeeeeeeeep. $12 on ebay.
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Post by skip20 on Dec 7, 2012 19:25:17 GMT -5
Sorry charlie, but it's a back up camera as it has the lines on it. Rear view cameras no lines. Got you!
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 8, 2012 5:00:29 GMT -5
True but the lines let me know when the local idiots are tailgating me. It is on all the time I am driving.
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zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 29, 2012 13:19:35 GMT -5
Hey everyone, So I decided to start installing my stereo since I have finished some bigger projects on my list over winter break. I already ordered a good set of speakers and I am going to use an old deck I got 7ish years ago until I can afford a better one. Right now my concern is about the rear speaker placement. Here is how Dan MacMillan did it: Which, in my opinion, is the best placement for the rear speakers in the GT2. However, because the rear of the speakers are exposed to the outdoors he had to fabricate an enclosure for them. Another idea is how mj placed his speakers: So far my plan is to place my 6X9s around where mj placed his rear speakers in hopes that there is a well in the body that can enclose the rear of the speaker. Does anyone know if there is such a well? or does any hole cut on the back end of a GT2 go straight outside of the car? OR!!! I used these in my Rambler; I could use them for the 6x9's and place it where Dan placed his, right? speaker baffles
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Post by skip20 on Dec 29, 2012 13:51:50 GMT -5
You can get some form cups from Clutchfield (no sure on spelling. Used them on the Goldwing.
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zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 29, 2012 13:59:31 GMT -5
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Post by skip20 on Dec 29, 2012 17:07:05 GMT -5
That's the ticket!
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zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 29, 2012 17:13:27 GMT -5
Cool, thanks, I'm going to order a set of baffles then. My main concern was just avoiding having to fabricate an enclosure, but I guess this takes care of it Thanks
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 29, 2012 17:25:47 GMT -5
On some of my cars I just go to the dollar store and buy stainless steel bowls. My GT2 uses 2 6" bowls glassed in the inner front fender. My 74 Thing has 2 oval ones welded inside the rear air intakes.
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zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 29, 2012 21:26:27 GMT -5
oh wow, that's a pretty innovative idea, probably not something I would have though of.
Hey Dan, your front 6's are in front of the air vents, so is the back of the speaker sticking out in the wheel well? Don't you have problems with the tires rubbing on them? (my tires already rub the inside of the fender.)
Also, are mj's rear mounted speakers sticking out in rear tire wells?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 29, 2012 23:10:49 GMT -5
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zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 29, 2012 23:22:36 GMT -5
Did you place the speakers where the foot vent is supposed to be?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 31, 2012 20:02:26 GMT -5
What foot vents? front to rear heat tubes direct warm air to the windshield, Front blower tubes direct air to the dash vents. The tubes you see in my photos were installed when I bought the car.
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zaucy
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Posts: 127
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Post by zaucy on Dec 31, 2012 22:18:47 GMT -5
This photo was posted above in the thread: The hole in the bottom left corner is the foot vent, my GT2 has the same thing. I think it's safe to assume it was part of the original design, but I can refer to my big blue book to double check. My GT2 also uses this in front wheel wells: Yours just had PVC going directly to the top hole which leads to defrost. So I would guess either the previous owner of your GT2 or yourself did a little modification to the original design. Likely the person before you since you seem unaware of the foot vents.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Jan 1, 2013 11:56:09 GMT -5
Interesting, I was unaware as the previous owner installed the tubes. So to answer your question, yes they are where the foot vents would be. I own many stock VWs with factory heat and cannot see having the foot vent. The stock system in perfect condition sucks for adequate air flow and too much air would be lost to the floor. Defrost is most important.
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