|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Sept 20, 2012 8:19:42 GMT -5
I've installed the rear window and the passenger door so far that I got from SunRay and found that neither are bent to the correct contours. The rear window seems to have exagerated top corners so that the plexi slopes downward toward the center of the roof. The corners remain the highest points and slightly peek over the rooftop. The door is just plain not bent enough. With the roof section flat against the seal the side sticks out 3 inches at the bottom. While I haven't trimmed the driver's door yet to fit a mockup tells the same story; its not bent enough. Luckily I'm using a steel frame under the plexi so I can pull things back where they should be. Am I alone with these problems or is this a recurring thing?
|
|
|
|
Post by Gary Hammond on Sept 20, 2012 11:45:32 GMT -5
Hi Smyrnaguy,  What you describe is typical from Sunray.  Actually, the doors are no problem as they will easily pull into place and make a good seal. They may even have been designed like this originally to eliminate gaps at the top, front, and back of the doors.  The rear window is another matter, however.  It has to be carefully trimmed and pulled down into place as best you can. The original type seals for the rear window won't fill in the gaps, so you have to use a different type seal that will.  At least that was my experience. Gary Hammond,   |
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Sept 25, 2012 19:06:30 GMT -5
I've got both the doors on now and am quite pleased with the fit and function. The bear claw latches work well and I've set the system up so that the driver's door unlocks when I kill the engine. The only thing left now is installing the door lift rams. The rear window...I'm not so happy with. I don't know what to do with the high corners.
|
|
|
|
Post by Gary Hammond on Sept 25, 2012 20:00:14 GMT -5
The only thing left now is installing the door lift rams. The rear window...I'm not so happy with. I don't know what to do with the high corners. Don't use gas struts as they will break, or at the least warp, the doors from the constant pressure! Gary Hammond, |
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Sept 25, 2012 20:48:10 GMT -5
My doors have steel inner frames for just this reason as well as providing a more substantial base for the hinges and latches.
|
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Sept 26, 2012 8:05:29 GMT -5
hey, can you post some pictures of your door setup?
big bob
|
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Sept 26, 2012 13:42:18 GMT -5
I'll get some pics up later tonight. In a nutshell I used 3/4" OD tubing to make a perimeter frame for each door. To this I attached the bearclaw latch bolt and an interior pull handle. I then covered the outside edges of these frames with 3/4" self adhesive foam weatherstriping. Then the plexiglass was sandwiched between the steel frame and the aluminum hinges I had made. So the plexi rests on the foam and never actually touches the steel directly. I then drilled a hole near each lower corner of the frames and bolted the plexi to the frames there as well. When I ordered the doors I also ordered 2 sets of hinges but ended using them for the rear window and engine cover. I didn't much care that if used for the doors they would be removed in opposite directions; one forward, the other rearward. I ordered some aluminum weld-on hinges from McMaster-Carr and had mine made 14 inches wide so that I could distribute stress across the whole window as well as more of the roof. I also made them so both remove in the same direction (forward) and the pins are on the doors not stuck on the roof. Electric latches with a fob remote (and hidden emergency pulls) open the doors.
|
|
|
|
Post by skip20 on Sept 26, 2012 13:52:29 GMT -5
I'll get some pics up later tonight. In a nutshell I used 3/4" OD tubing to make a perimeter frame for each door. To this I attached the bearclaw latch bolt and an interior pull handle. I then covered the outside edges of these frames with 3/4" self adhesive foam weatherstriping. Then the plexiglass was sandwiched between the steel frame and the aluminum hinges I had made. So the plexi rests on the foam and never actually touches the steel directly. I then drilled a hole near each lower corner of the frames and bolted the plexi to the frames there as well. When I ordered the doors I also ordered 2 sets of hinges but ended using them for the rear window and engine cover. I didn't much care that if used for the doors they would be removed in opposite directions; one forward, the other rearward. I ordered some aluminum weld-on hinges from McMaster-Carr and had mine made 14 inches wide so that I could distribute stress across the whole window as well as more of the roof. I also made them so both remove in the same direction (forward) and the pins are on the doors not stuck on the roof. Electric latches with a fob remote (and hidden emergency pulls) open the doors. Wow, this I got to SEE!! ;D |
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Sept 26, 2012 18:37:15 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Sept 26, 2012 18:42:51 GMT -5
AC is required now when the temp hits about 70 outside. With the doors shut no air moves within. The greenhouse effect is felt quickly.  Does anyone know how to get rid of that wavy film left by the plastic wrap on the plexiglass? |
|
|
|
Post by big bob on Sept 27, 2012 10:27:44 GMT -5
hey smyrna,
very nice, very nice indeed. i had thought about a similar setup. i like how the frame hugs the edges of the door opening.
and good idea about the foam barrier between the frame and the plexi. all in all, this should keep the door rigid yet somewhat flexible at the same time, also like your rubber channel moulding and headliner, very neat and clean.
the hinges are probably not my most favorite part of the setup, but at least its secure and wont rip out at the first gust. my idea on the setup would be that frame was there but, the lower "side" part of the glass could be on some kinda removeable hinge so you could run t-top style, then add full window for fall driving.
pictures always tell a better story. good job...... big bob
|
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Sept 27, 2012 13:54:02 GMT -5
I'm not crazy about the finish of the hinges either. The shop didn't follow my instructions correctly but they are extremely strong. I'll get a prettier pair made later.
|
|
|
|
Post by trimagnum on Oct 25, 2012 22:20:32 GMT -5
I'm planning on ordering a drivers door from them. Is their shipping expensive?
|
|
|
|
Post by smyrnaguy on Oct 26, 2012 12:05:11 GMT -5
The shipping is expensive because of the box size. 2 Doors and a rear window were a bit over $1000 with shipping.
|
|
|
|
Post by trimagnum on Oct 26, 2012 15:02:35 GMT -5
One door might not be too bad then around $350 for the door and shipping. Since my car is kept outside under tarps the door would be really nice. Climb in slide down to a wet butt is no fun lol
|
|
It has to be carefully trimmed and pulled down into place as best you can. The original type seals for the rear window won't fill in the gaps, so you have to use a different type seal that will. 
At least that was my experience. 
