Control pedals

There is a kit to space out the clutch and brake unique-parts.com/?wpsc-product=extended-clutch-pedal-shaft but the brake to gas remains the same. I too have the same prob, size 12 eeeeeeeee. I simply heat the clutch and brake pedal arms with oxy acet torch near the pivot and bend them to the left. Let them cool down on their own.

Gee, & I worry bout my little 10.5!

Thanks guys the torch heating n bending did the trick now I have room and it dosent feal like my foot is going to get stuck betwean them I feal a lot safer now

Bad idea relying on the park brake. Front does 60-70% of the stopping. If you don't have the time to fix it you should park it. Glad my kids and I do not live in your town.

I'm hardly driving it at all right now, I just can't seem to get the master set correctly. how do you set the pistons stop point so it doesn't push all the way to the floor? even going to floor its not working. this is the 3rd new master i've gotten, none had instructions with it.

There is no piston stop point. Set the pushrod on the pedal so there is appox 1/4" pedal travel before the piston in the master starts to move. Adj all 8 brake shoe star adjusters evenly so there is slight drag on the wheels. Bleed the brakes starting with bleeding the master using plugs where the lines screw in. When there is no travel other than the original 1/4" remove the plugs and connect the lines. In the following order bleed the lines, rr lr rf lf. Keep the reservolir full. Jf your front wheel cyl are in the 3 and 9 o'clock position remove the front backing plate bolts and rotate the plate to put the wheel cyl to 12 o'clock. slip the drums on and bleed.



Bleeding master cvlinders.

There is lots of controversy here about bench bleeding. It is always better to do it. The procedure below will test the master at the same time. Mount the master to the car but do not hook up the lines. Then follow the procedure. It can also be done in a vise but is a little more difficult.

New and improved master cylinder bench bleeding procedure

www.cardone.com/english/club/products/brakes/protech/articles/Bleeder.asp



The most common problem customers face when installing master cylinders is improper bleeding procedures. In the past, CARDONE supplied a bleeder kit that consisted of plugs with holes. Tubes pressed on to the holes in order to bench bleed the master cylinder. Although this kit was successful when used properly, it was not the best process. One of our goals in Technical Services is to improve every process. We found a better way.
The new bleeder kit comes with solid plugs to bench bleed the replacement unit.

The advantages of the new process are:

More efficient to bleed the master cylinder.

No mess or fluid dripping when bench bleeding or when installing the unit on the vehicle.

Proving the unit is functional during bench bleeding. If the piston is firm when bench bleeding and not on the vehicle when bleeding, the brake system is at fault, NOT THE MASTER CYLINDER.

The following process is supplied with each CARDONE replacement master cylinder. You can help our customers by stressing the importance of following every process we include with our parts, to prevent warranties and increase sales.

1) Transfer proportioning valves, switches or other components to the replacement master cylinder (as applicable).

2) Tighten bleeder plugs into ports (bleeder plugs may be in parts kit or master cylinder reservoir).
3) Support the master cylinder in a vise in a level position. Never clamp onto the body of the master cylinder.

NOTE: Units with remote reservoirs should be bled on the vehicle. It is VERY IMPORTANT that the body of the master cylinder be kept level during the bleeding process.

4) Fill reservoirs halfway or until reservoir ports are covered. Always use new brake fluid from a sealed container as specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

5) Install reservoir lid so brake fluid does not spray from reservoir during bleeding process.

6) Using a blunt tool or dowel (brake pedal if mounted in vehicle), SLOWLY press in and release the master cylinder piston using short strokes of 3/4” to 1”. NEVER STROKE PISTON MORE THAN 1”. Repeat this step until resistance to piston movement is firm and less than 1/8”.

IMPORTANT NOTE: On step-bore master cylinders, WAIT 20 SECONDS BETWEEN STROKES. This will allow air trapped in the quick take-up valve to rise into reservoir. MASTER CYLINDER BODY MUST BE LEVEL.

7) Install master cylinder on vehicle. DO NOT remove bleeder plugs until brake lines are ready to be installed. This prevents air from entering the unit and brake fluid leaking out.

Remove one bleeder plug at a time from the master cylinder and connect the proper brake line to that port. Repeat this step for remaining brake line ports. Be sure fluid level is maintained during installation of brake lines and that all fittings are clean before installation. Bleed brake system according to vehicle manufacturer’s procedures and specifications.

9) Verify proper pedal action before moving vehicle. Do not road test vehicle until correct pedal feel and travel are obtained.

NOTE: If firm brake pedal action results using bleeder plugs, but becomes soft after installation in vehicle, the problem is not the replacement master cylinder.

INSTALLATION TIP OF THE MONTH: Read before you proceed!

If you do not have plugs, get brake line fittings and plug weld them.

You probably did not miss it as most do not know this procedure. Make sure the pedal stop on the floor is set so the 2 pedals are even. The stop adjusts the pedal position at rest. That 1/4" free play is most important otherwise the fluid cannot return to the master. Brakes will stay applied. Fluid will boil. Total loss of brakes will occur.