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Post by kensaw210 on Mar 15, 2012 14:59:21 GMT -5
I bought this GT II last fall. The Head lights didn't work so I got to it today. While working on my head lights I noticed how much weight that little electric motor had to lift. Also when I unhooked the bracket to the motor and put in a new fuse, the motor would keep running when I lifted the head light. I think the switch is bad to shut it off as it kept running. The head light when lifted by hand will rub the top of hood is there an adjustment to keep that from happening. I am stump to just what to do. I just can't believe that motor will lift all that weight very long with out burning up. Like some ideas.
Thanks
Kensaw210
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Post by jspbtown on Mar 15, 2012 19:55:30 GMT -5
Your right. It will burn out. It a single wiper motor from a delivery truck (like a UPS truck). It was not designed to lift those lights. Install a linear actuator (or two) and be done with it.
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Post by kensaw210 on Mar 15, 2012 20:41:42 GMT -5
jspbtown, Do you have a product number. I'm not sure what one would work just looking at them in pictures. Thanks for this idea I knew it needed something else.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Mar 15, 2012 21:37:56 GMT -5
Got mine at Princess Auto, made by ICI www.princessauto.com/pal/product/8272502/Actuators/12V-DC-4-in.-Stroke-Linear-ActuatorSorry do not know the part number but here are the specs Stroke 4in. Load Capacity 110lb Static Load 500lb Speed at Max Load 0.50in./sec  This wiring results in the lights opening if the headlights sw is on AND the lock sw on. They will close if either sw is turned off. There is zero parasitic draw on the battery when turned off. By supplying the headlight sw with IGN controlled 12v instead of constant BATT 12v, the headlights will automatically turn on and open when the car is started {if the HL and lock switch are on} and close when the car is turned off. UPDATE: A fellow builder asked me the following:My actuator has 5 wires coming out: Red, Black, White, Purple,Yellow. Do I ignore the others and just use the red and black? Yes, you ignore the remaining 3 wires. Only the red and black are used. They are connected to the relays so that when power is removed from the "lock" wire, the headlights retract into the body. You should have a spring steel torsion bar attached to the headlight crossbar that when set properly almost makes them weightless.  Front to rear adjustment is done by setting the angle between the crossbar and the door brackets. Once I had mine where I wanted them I welded the crossbar as the pinned sections had rotational play. I also welded the crossbar to door brackets as one night when they were on, one loosened up and dropped down enough to really bind when I turned off the key. The system is strong enough that it forced it closed. It snapped so loud I thought the fiberglass cracked. If you dont want to weld, add a bolt through the crossbar ends/door brackets to stop any changes in adjustment. When the limit switches are not functioning the motor just spins. |
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Post by kensaw210 on Mar 17, 2012 18:27:50 GMT -5
Thanks so much for the info your a great help....
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