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Post by spyderdriver on Mar 8, 2012 14:43:13 GMT -5
so i am putting my '65 1300 back together, and i keep coming across things that i don't know why they are there, no one whose engine i have seen has em, and i am wondering if i can remove and make simpler. the previous owners had some strange ideas about how to put a engine together, some of the fuel line was vacuum line, the fuel filter was on the wrong side of the fuel pump, and the way the oil was set up....but im off topic. i have a spacer between the carb and the intake that runs to a strange valve on the pre warmers on the intake (see photos) and i don't know why, please help me understand.    |
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Post by Gary Hammond on Mar 8, 2012 14:58:07 GMT -5
Hi Spiderdriver,  Looks like it might be a demand valve for an LP fuel system that also used heat to help vaporize the fuel. Probably a dual, fuel system for either gasoline or vapor withdrawl LP. Just guessing, but that's what it looks like to me. Gary Hammond,   |
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 8, 2012 15:05:04 GMT -5
Is that another opening on the top of that valve? I once saw a very similar set-up that was used for injecting a water alcohol mix supposedly to increase gas mileage and run cooler, the tube on the top would be connected to a gallon container and you'd fill it periodically. I had one on my 67 bus and crossed the Rockies with it I couldn't say for sure whether or not it worked but it certainly gave me confidence! I think it was in the same category as "Snake-Oil". Although I do believe the 48 Cadillac came stock with one of those also.
It'll be interesting to hear from some of the more experienced motor-heads what exactly that is since I'm just guessing!
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Post by spyderdriver on Mar 8, 2012 15:53:58 GMT -5
i believe the top was hooked to the air filter with a T to the oil filler, but im not 100% shur, i took it apart last year,
i didn't see anything else like a tank. but its a interesting idea.
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Post by jspbtown on Mar 8, 2012 15:55:32 GMT -5
I have seen that recently...where did I see it? Let me look.
EGR?
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mpm
Junior Member
Member since 2008
Posts: 51
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Post by mpm on Mar 8, 2012 16:27:51 GMT -5
Remove spacer, remove the hose's, cap off the lower connection, You are correct on the pre warmer it heat up the air flow. You dont need it, its just another place to have a possible vacuum leak.
They were used in cold climates & high altitude areas.
Regards, Mark
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Post by spyderdriver on Mar 8, 2012 17:01:47 GMT -5
well allso my prewarmer is clogged up and i don't know if maybe this was a way to warm the air, but i don't think that would be the best way to do it.
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mpm
Junior Member
Member since 2008
Posts: 51
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Post by mpm on Mar 8, 2012 18:13:54 GMT -5
Your right it is not, they rust up from condensation. The hose from your air filter to your oil breather is all you need for pre heating.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Mar 8, 2012 19:38:49 GMT -5
remove the hose and valve, leave the spacer {as removing it will lower the carb and your accel pump linkage will hit your alternator}but plug the hole either with a rubber cap or a pice of hose with a bolt in it. Plug the tube coming off of the heat riser tubes. Clean out the heat riser tubes, heat them with a propane torch or toss them in the BBQ on high for a few hours and run a piece of speedo cable on a drill through them. They are needed to reduce carb icing. Icing happens mostly on warm moist summer days.  Remove all fuel filters from the engine bay. They are not needed. There should be a filter in the fuel tank and as long as you run that style of fuel pump there is a filter built into it, behind the big nut. Clamp all connections and safety wire all brass tubes to pump and carb. Reconnect your air tubes from the shroud to the heat exchangers, do not plug them. Also your plug wire gromets need to be snapped into the cyl shrouds. |
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Post by spyderdriver on Mar 9, 2012 2:48:47 GMT -5
i have tried cleaning them and i cant remove whatever is stuck in there, i have tried fire, WD40, and long pieces of wire all to no avale, but i live in a very dry hot place so i not think i have many problems with icing
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Mar 9, 2012 4:42:05 GMT -5
If you experience loss of power then stalling with restart after sitting for about 5 min, suspect ice. Personally I would be looking for at least a 1600 to rebuild, parts are cheaper, engine is better.
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Post by spyderdriver on Mar 9, 2012 14:48:45 GMT -5
yeah but that costs money i haven't spent more than 200 on this 1300 and most of that was making it 12V. it was just rebuilt too.
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 9, 2012 16:18:57 GMT -5
The 1300 is a great engine, I bought one as soon as they came out for my split back in '65.
I used to cruise at 65-70 all day long in that tin can
That 1300 will push your GT just fine!!
In a time when everyone is faced with bigger and better, thow it out and buy a new one,
I like your thinking -- budget conscious!!!
Best of luck with it!!
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Mar 9, 2012 18:53:32 GMT -5
6 to 12v conversion,
Change the ign coil and condenser
Change the carb electrics
Change the gen and reg
No need to change the starter. It will handle 12v fine as the amperage is cut in half.
Lights and wiper motor or dropping resistor for wiper motor.
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Post by spyderdriver on Mar 10, 2012 10:17:07 GMT -5
The 1300 is a great engine, I bought one as soon as they came out for my split back in '65. I used to cruise at 65-70 all day long in that tin can That 1300 will push your GT just fine!! In a time when everyone is faced with bigger and better, thow it out and buy a new one, I like your thinking -- budget conscious!!! Best of luck with it!! 85 mph on small tires, no i like my 1300 very much. there is something about telling your mates that you have 40hp. |
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