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Post by mwilson on Dec 2, 2011 17:21:42 GMT -5
I've read where a few folks have added weight, as much as 120 lbs to the front end of their GT II. I am experiencing some of the effects of a lighter front end. If I hit snow, ice, water, etc, it feels like I lose control temporarily.
My situation is I have already added approx 120 lbs of batteries and metal frame to the front end where the gas tank would be because my car is 100% electric.
I would really like to see how and where folks added weight to their front ends, pictures please? : )
Thanks,
Matt
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 2, 2011 18:05:52 GMT -5
Matt,
I have never added weight to any of my cars so I can't help there, however I have to ask if the car has been lowered? If so do you have castor shims?
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Post by mwilson on Dec 2, 2011 19:01:08 GMT -5
jspbtown,
Good point! I didn't lower my car, I raised it three inches. I just couldn't stand having my head hit the ceiling. I know that usually lifting a car will effect the center of gravity when the car turns, but how does it effect the distribution of weight?
BTW, I have coil over shocks on the car.
Thanks,
Matt
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Dec 2, 2011 19:23:45 GMT -5
By lowering he means the suspension. This will affect steering geometry. Doing a body lift will have little affect geometry or handling. Yes the body is higher but due to the fact that it is so light. CG barely moves. Coil overs only on the rear can reduce caster. If used on the front of an ICE car will result in a harsh ride as there is no weight on the front. On a 2e the coil overs will help support the batteries and correct a low ride height issue.
Scrub radius, as well as front and rear toe will make it squirrely. What are your alignment values? Wheel offset and tire width as well as air pressures?
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Post by skip20 on Dec 2, 2011 19:59:13 GMT -5
If you can find the other rear eng. VW that has a "P" in the beginning, the front bumper has about 2 - 60 lb lead weight behind it.
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Post by mwilson on Dec 5, 2011 13:51:41 GMT -5
Dan,
You're right, I haven't had it aligned yet. Assuming that the repair shop I plan on taking to knows what they are doing, is there something significant that needs to be said when aligning a 1967 VW chassis?
I added a dead 50lb Optima battery right on top of the chassis hump, directly behind my live battery pack. This seems to help quite a bit. The weight is right on the center of the chassis but not on the body.
My tires are at 35 psi.
Thanks,
Matt
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Post by jspbtown on Dec 5, 2011 14:47:28 GMT -5
Didn't catch the electric referrence the first time through. So my normal comments on reducing tire pressure may not apply. I would also check your pitman arm to make sure it is snug. An alignment would be my first move though. Alignment Specs (Courtesy of Dan): www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=206764 |
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larry
New Member
Posts: 18
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Post by larry on Dec 5, 2011 18:14:02 GMT -5
Be careful when adding weight to a GTE - The GTE already has significant weight in the front and tends to under-steer - especially on slick surfaces. Also adding weight adversely affects braking and range on a car that is already overloaded with lead - the best thing you can do on a GTE is to lighten the whole car which is difficult to do without changing to something other than Lead Acid propulsion. Also check the air shocks on the rear and that they are properly inflated to compensate for the weight of the battery rack and batteries. And check the alignment. Castor generally only affects return centering of the wheels. Toe will cause scrub and squirrely handling. Camber can cause all kinds of ailments. Call me if you want to discuss the GTE. 407-889-7377
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Post by mwilson on Dec 5, 2011 18:45:44 GMT -5
Larry,
It wasn't clearly stated but I'm running with lithium batteries. MUCH lighter than the normal lead sled.
Thanks for the advice.
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