GT2 Mid engine Subaru conversion

Hi Dan,

Sorry you lost a co-worker. My condolences to you, and to his family.

It's always sad when someone is cut down in their prime. Life isn't always fair. We all need to be prepared, because we never know when the end of this life will come and the next life begin.

Gary Hammond,

I managed to get a bit more done.

Made one exhaust manifold to clear the torsion housing. There is not much room to work with. This is the easy side to do. The other head sets the outlet further forward over the torsion housing. I reworked a section of the original Y pipe to do this. Not sure if I will keep the flange or just use clamps to secure the pipe. Iy will depend on how tight of a bend I can get.






Recognize this part? It used to be the headlight door motor bracket.



Now it is the throttle cable adapter.







I had to slightly modify the throttle to accept a VW cable nut.

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Cooling fans, I ran out of short bolts to join the fans so these will do for now.



Vents, more to come. As you can see I will have to repaint. Probably redo the whole car. Easier than color matching.




A little color. MMy son says it makes it look like a plastic model kit. What do you think?

Well I am behind once again. I managed to make the rest of the throttle parts but got sidetracked by doing the lower engine mounts. Finished both mount to block adapters, both mounts are on the engine and one side frame to mount support is in place. It sucks when you run out of oxygen and have to cut everything with a chop saw, sawsall and grinder. Very time consuming.

Today is gas tank day. Had the metal cut and bent then I went at it. Roughly 20 feet of welding.





Off to store for fill pipe.

It fits


Beginning of fill pipe
Going to have to get creative again to hook it up to my cap assembly.



The axles. For some reason the Subaru had 2 different inner cv joints. Probably one is an aftermarket replacement.
I had the machine shop turn down 2 1/2 inches of the Subaru axle to 3/4 inch. Then they bored out the VW axle the required amount to achieve a press fit. Total axle length, end to end, is 14 1/8". Next they welded the two together. Finally an 11/32 hole was cross drilled through the axle and a 3/8 grade 8 bolt was machined down to a press fit and installed. This was done to be able to keep the hardened CV splines. They tell me that even without the pin going through the axles, I will destroy the CV before the axle lets go. Time will tell.

Yesterday was quite the trip. I decided it was time to line my fuel tank. I used a product called Kreem.

www.kreem.com/fueltankliner.html



It is a very easy process. Wash the tank with soap and water, rinse, add rust remover/etching solution acid part A, rinse, add cleaner/water absorber part B, dump out and add liner. The instructions say it must be a well ventilated area. Well as it still isn't warm enough outside, I got the bright idea to do it in our bathtub- door closed -ceiling fan on. How bad can it be? Washing went ok, fruity smell. Rust removal went ok,, sweet smell. Part B application, downright nasty, powerful enough to revive a dead dinosaur. Liner, Part B on steroids. My cartridge mask for painting had no effect. It was quite the trip. If anyone uses it, do it outside.

Today I finished my exhaust.







Had to eliminate one cat and relocate one O2, Everything after the flex pipe is solid mounted to the frame. I have done this before with excellent results. Due to the way the resonstor attaches to the tailpipes I may have too much backpressure. Once it is running I can measure the backpressure and redesign the tailpipes if needed.

Can't wait to finish all the mods so I can get some paint on this thing.

It's looking good & back on the road soon also.
Mine is just sitting up on the hoist..

Fixed the check engine lights, no codes now. sealed the rad. Did bit more in cosmetics and driveline. Polished and added 3 of the rad grill pieces. Started carpeting the upper engine cover and installed the rear speakers. Finished installing the Subi CV boot clamps. As the Subi wiring includes the Subi speedometer, I brought it up to 60 mph on the stands. Shifts good, gets there real quick and no vibrations.
Put on a whole 2km without leaving the garage.

Back to the front, pedal assy. Here is a little upgrade for you all to do. 5/32 hole with a self tapping grease fitting.



Needed more throttle travel.

Thanks but it is not an issue. If you have been following this thread you would know I am using a Subaru automatic tranny so the hook is no longer used. In fact my clutch and brake pedals are joined to function as one wider brake pedal.

Got some more done. A lot of time went into finishing up the interior.
Here is a shot of the inner firewall. Unfortunately this city is out of black boat carpeting so I had to use a different type. Not too bad as I have enough to make floor mats. One of the hardest parts was making the braces that tie the rear frame into the floor and at the same time securing the firewall in place as this all has to be removable. My ecm and transmission control module can be seen when the seat is flipped forward. Beside the ECM is the data link connector. That DVD case at the bottom is my glove box. All important paperwork is inside. Held on with velcro, it is handy when renewing plates ins etc.




The completed shifter




Evaporative emmissions.



Since no one had any suggestions on my air outlets I bit the bullet and cut the glass once again.

Looking good & a lot of work has gone into this.
Great job.

I just finished up the heat and will do the AC if I can find a suitable evap core and a place to install it. The heater core/blower has used up most of the fresh air box.


Princess auto. Reg $299 on sale for $125. Went through at $70 after taxes honey START THE CAR}. Fits the fresh air box without mods. 36000 btu. 3 speed dual cage blower. Subaru need coolant recirculating through the heater hoses so I got a 4 hose recirc valve at the wreckers from a ford ranger ( I think ).

For the heater tubes I used
2 lengths of 1/2" galvanized electrical conduit
4 pipe unions that just fit over the conduit
4 1/2 barbed fittings that thread into the unions.

I brazed one union on one end of each pipe, capped the unions then filled the pipes with sand. Next they were heated with oxt acet and bent to run down the new subframe, 90 deg to the outside of the pan, 90 deg to run down the pan following the shape of the pan then to tuck in behind the front torsion housing. Then the sand was removed and the remaining unions brazed on. I capped on end and applied 60 psi air to leak check. Followed by a good flushing with water.

Not much left. I need a vac switch to control water to the heater core and reinstall thev air distribution plenum. It now has 4 air outlets instead of 2.

Check the back of VANS in the junk yards.
The Travel or camper type.
In the back corner you will find at the rear A/C unit.
The outlets hang from the ceiling. If you see them, get the A/C unit.
Looks a lot like your heat, but it have 4 outlet cover on it & you can get ALL the hoses you will ever need & the out vents also. Get the switch off the dash or rear. It's the ON/OFF & FAN 3 SPEED.
Make sure you vent the fans for fresh air also.
You can get A/C hoses made up to fit you need, just the hi pressure line, the low pressure is just a hose with cramps to hold it.
Get a new dryer can also.
You can use the Subaru A/C pump on the engine.
See how you rad. is in the back it should be easy.
It will fit in the pocket on the Bradley GT II & get a smaller heater.Maybe you could us the fans from the A/C unit onto just the heater section???

There a group of switches up front overhead which may com in handy also

Went to cruise night tonight, farthest trip to date, about 30 miles. 84 deg F today and still the cooling fans are not being turned on. And to think I was worried about overheating. They really designed the engine scoop well.










Weather permitting, I will be applying kitcarguy's graphics tomorrow.