GT2 Mid engine Subaru conversion

Spent a few more hours in the garage today. Finished the upper trans mounts on the chassis, installed the starter and the fuel filter mount. Lastly I built the lower rad mounts and test fit the rad. Sandblasted the stock Subaru upper rad mount.
Tomorrow I need to find a lower rad isolation rubber so I can locate the upper rad mount.

Good work & looking good.
I'm keeping an EYE on you!

Hope you had trans fluid in it when you started it.
It will come out the rear!

Idea on the AWD auto trans rear output.
Maybe you could cut the yoke off of the drive shaft making sure it's still plugged in the rear.
Then slide it on the output & pin the two together.
Nice thing about the auto trans is you can get a new cable made up to get it all the way to the back.
Don't forget to loop the cable back to the trans so it will shift correctly.

Where are you mounting the Rad.? In front of the engine?
How are you going to get the air flow to it?
MR2 has a great little fan on the side inlet to get air into the engine comp.
I have the setup & not going to use with all of my scoops.
PM me if you can't find it.

Tranny was full. I made a cover that goes over the tailstock so nothing is spinning externally at the rear.

Any idea where to get the cable made?

Rad is behing the trans for now. The fuel tank will be in front of iy starting at the rear firewall. As the tank is slopped to the rear, I am hoping air from the stock hood will be directed into the rad. vAir scoop from the bottom to direct air up into the rad. Dual fans with air deflector down out under the license plate. Also I plan to have exit vents above the lic plate.

So which are you running in the radiator, Pepsi or Coke? ;D

The machine pistol in the door is way cool but I imagine it might panic an approaching cop at a traffic stop. Sweet flames. Bravo.

Managed to get some more done today after a cleanup of my garage. Spent about an hour underneath cutting and removing the remains of the frame horns. This has given me enough clearance so that I can modify the original oil pan instead of having to make a new one. Another hour spent on the remote filter adapter. As purchased it would not spin on. Had clearance issues between the adapter and the block. After many trips between my bench grinder and the car, slowly removing the 2 corners on the adapter, I was able to get it installed and in the correct position. with #10 jic x1/2 pipe fittings. Then another trip into town to get 2 #10 hydraulic hoses made up. Today was my lucky day. The store no longer sells #10 hose but had 2 leftover pieces that were long enough. I supplied my own fittings. Total cost to buy the hose, have them cut it to length and crimp on my fittings...$6.00

Today was oil pan day.

This is the space I had to work with. Once I pull the engine the cut frame horns will be cleaned up and new 12ga steel will be added to reinforce the diagonal arm brackets and torsion housing to chassis.



This is the stock pan.


Notch removed to fit in with enough clearance.





Not pretty, yet, but it is now 3/4 quart bigger and clears everything with ample ground clearance.






Still have to clean it up and coat it. Once the engine is out I can do the pickup tube.

Enjoyed looking, keep the pic comming Rick from Mississippi

THANKS FOR THE COMPLIMENTS.

Got off work at 5:30 am, home a 7:30 am, 2 hours sleep then into town to pick up a few more parts and more propane for the furnace. Back into it in the morning, got 4 more days to get the engine back in.

I posted the following ealier but got no replies so here goes again.
Someone asked if I was having the engine under glass. Initially I was not but today my son suggested that I build a vertical wall in front of the engine. with a clear window in the top. This way I would have quick easy engine access just by opening the rear window. Also by running with the rear glass partially open it should draw air from under the car to help cool things down.

What are your thoughts?

Stripped a bunch of parts off the engine, blasted and painted. Removed timing belt covers to check condition of belt, cleaned covers. Final touches to oil pan, now ready for a coat of glass. Cut and prepped some of the final frame bracing. Had to reshape the stock windage tray to allow for oil pickup tube clearance.

Tomorrow is welding frame and glassing pan day. Pictures will be included.

Firewall will probably be 1/2 ply, insulated on engine side, carpetted to match inside. I still have to check if my 914 rear window will fit above the engine cage. This will all be sealed to the interior if the body.

Well do to the fact that i am 6'2" 300 lbs I quickly realized that I was not going to fit in the rear seat area to clean things up. So after tracking down my 6'5" 140 lb son and bribing him with cash we were able to get lots of the lower eng bay/torsion housing area cleaned up. Was he ever bent like a pretzel. Better him than me. if it were me I would have needed the overhead winch to get out.

Cleaned up torsion/factory cradle arms waiting for reinforcing plates.




Added 2 bars to rear susp from shock tower arms {Beetle body mounts} to engine cage. age will contonue down to floor along side seats from a point just above these newly added tubes.



The oil pan is now finished






Stock oil tube showing failure.


Modified oil pickup tube.

Further research has indicated that I will need more bracing on the tube. The above failure is addressed by bolting it to the windage tray just before the 90 deg corner. The long brace attaches to the block. A secong brace closer to the screen end will go to the block.
Although you see brazing on the joints, they are all mig welded first. The bazing is done to ensure no leaks.


Topside getting there.
Completely stripped alt to blast housing.








Located a source for a 15 foot shifter cable for $30.

Looks like another delay. Just found out we have a family lunch tomorrow, my last day off.

Today was shifter day.
View after removing my dragfast shifter


Starting to cut things out.




New boxed in section to restore some strength to the tunnel




Subaru automatic shifter in place



With 1st trim cover and handle.



Still some trim to figure out and connect the 13 foot shifter cable.

Following your progress. Awesome build.

First of all a little heads up on parts. I went to a local flaps to get a thermostat for the Subaru as it is almost impossible to change with the engine installed. The parts guy looked it up in their system by make/year/model/engine size and sold me the last one he had, $20 plus tax. When I got home I went to the manufacturers website and ran the numbers. The numbers were correct for my make/year/size engine, however the package had a part number sticker on it. I peeled back the sticker to reveal a manufacturer printed number [in the same format] on the package. When I ran these numbers Subaru was not an option.
Another 1/2 hour drive across the city to the Subaru dealer got me another stat that was looked up by the VIN of my donor car for $28 plus tax.

I am glad I looked it up. Even though they both will fit, the Subaru unit is of much better quality and design.




Today's update is short. I cut and welded in the rear tunnel reinforcing plates.





Hopefully by this time tomorrow the engine will be back in.