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Post by gtmike on Aug 23, 2009 23:03:20 GMT -5
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 24, 2009 0:26:07 GMT -5
Really nice job! I envy your determination to have a safer ride! It looks to me like tucking everything away would have sacrificed some structural safety, I personally think it looks like you mean business! Are you going to finish the metal in any way? I'd like to do that set-up for my twoie, if you don't mind my asking what were the shop charges for that?
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doug
Junior Member
Posts: 90
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Post by doug on Aug 24, 2009 5:21:09 GMT -5
will your doors be able to close without hitting the bars ?
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Post by gtmike on Aug 24, 2009 7:27:50 GMT -5
I will finish the metal, but how i'm not sure. The rest of the interior will be finished in the same two shades of tweed that the seats are covered in. So i'm not sure if I want to paint it silver to go with the grey interior, or if I want to go with blue to blend in with the top half of the car. I know the guy that did all this work for me and he gave me quite a break in price, but it was still expensive. Total cost, parts and labor ended up just shy of $1200. I don't plan to use my doors anymore, but if I wanted too, yes, they would still close.
-M
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Post by horen2tas on Aug 24, 2009 7:44:29 GMT -5
That's a great price for all that hand work, measuring and fabricating. I've seen some bars that were covered with the interior fabric and sometimes padded underneath that. I noticed that the covering is sometimes fixed on with snaps or zippers. For me that part would be the easiest since my wife sews like crazy. Again Great Job! Good luck!
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 24, 2009 12:36:27 GMT -5
It looks like your fabricator did not have a small enough radius plug on his tubing bender for the front one. I think it is just a matter of getting used to it, as long as your doors will clear if you decide to use them. Funny you should talk about the fact that the chassis is more rigid, I guess I did not think about that since I have not ridden/driven in a Bradley without the full cage. I do know mine feels very solid. Guess I been spoiled and not really known it. The cage in mine is well built/shaped, the only problem is the way it is contructed, the body is never coming off without taking a saw or torch to the roll bar system. Best Regards
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Post by gtmike on Aug 24, 2009 15:24:16 GMT -5
The cage in mine is well built/shaped, the only problem is the way it is contructed, the body is never coming off without taking a saw or torch to the roll bar system. I originally told my fabricator to weld the cage in, but he decided to go with a bold in design. I'm glad he did because I can remove it to prep, paint and finish my interior. I'm also glad to see that your front hoop is set back like mine. At least I feel better that mine isn't the only one like that. -M
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 24, 2009 16:55:57 GMT -5
Hi Mike and Steven, Both roll cages look good to me! ;D And the added rigidity and improved safety factor are great as well. Good work Mike! ;D Gary Hammond,
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 24, 2009 21:14:30 GMT -5
Yes mine is set about 2 inches back from the front lip of the top of the door opening. I actually like it that way as the gas lifts fold down right behind it when the doors are closed (I have to use doors as mine is a daily driver and regardless of the fact that it is called sunny California, it does rain in the winter here). Sincerely....
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Post by skip20 on Aug 25, 2009 9:08:27 GMT -5
Good looking roll bar , but boy what an over kill for the street. Do you plan on jumping off a cliff? Looks like it ready for NASA inspection! Just having fun with you.
Skip20
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Post by gtmike on Aug 25, 2009 18:00:00 GMT -5
I agree, it is overkill for the street...but if I ever need to use it I'd rather it be too much than not enough. My wife doesn't like the idea of having to wear shoulder straps though. Oh well.
-M
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