I wouldn't mind a very qualified opinion on an issue I am having with my Avenger.
When I installed the motor it became clear that the rear tires are about 1" too wide. I can get some room by trimming the lip but not 1". I could get some narrower tires but then the rears would be narrower then the fronts.
I do have adapters on the back which are about 7/8" thick. They are the classic aluminum VW 4 bolt to Chevy 5 bolt with the offset studd. Here is a picture of my rear brakes:
I am 99.9% sure they are 914 rear calipers. The rotors slide over a small hub that is drilled and tapped for the standard VW 4 bolt pattern. The hub is attached to the splined shaft on the axle.
Can I get the hubs and rotors re-drilled for the chevy bolt pattern? Would I have to get the holes in the hubs and/or rotors welded shut? I think the hubs are cast iron.
Any other suggestions other then narrower tires or re-drilled hubs? And no...new rims are not an option.
Post by Gary Hammond on Oct 7, 2011 14:44:38 GMT -5
Hi Jeff,
Not sure I understand your explanation and question. Is that the offset stud I see in the photo? The spacing in the photo doesn't look right to me. Does the offset stud bolt into the hub and rotor, or only into the adapter?
I've never dealt with spacer/adapters, so am unfamiliar with exactly how they mount. A picture of the adapter would help.
I don't see why a blank hub and rotor couldn't be drilled for the correct 5 bolt spacing. As for welding the old holes closed and re-drilling, I would be a little concerned about the cast iron developing stress cracks. Cast iron can be welded, but it must be done correctly or it will break easily.
I assume if the hubs and rotors were drilled for the Chevy bolt pattern, then you could eliminate the adapters and have thicker spacers made?
The picture os the stock set up. Its a standard VW 4 bolt pattern. The adapters or stud is not in the picture but here is one from CIP1: www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=ACC%2DC10%2D6706 The offset stud in the bottom of the picture screws into 1 stock hole (disregard the studs that are in the picture of my car) in the hub, and 3 bolts attach the adapter to the hub. The rotor sits in between the hub and the wheel.
The adapter adds about 7/8" thickness, thus pushing the outer edge of the tire out that 7/8" distance. I am therefore getting some fender lip rubbing. I want to eliminate the adapter and therefore would need to redrill the cast hub for the chevy 5 bolt pattern.
As you can see 4 of the 5 studs on the chevy pattern do not fall on 3 of the 4 stock VW stud locations. 1 stud catches some of a stock hole, thus the use of the adapter.
Brian,
Yes, drilling the hubs, pressing in new 7/16" studs, and then drilling out the rotors.
Last Edit: Oct 7, 2011 14:56:22 GMT -5 by jspbtown
Post by Gary Hammond on Oct 7, 2011 15:18:43 GMT -5
Hi Jeff,
Ok, now I get it! I mistakenly assumed the tires were rubbing on the inside instead of the outside!
From the link you posted, it would appear that only one hole would need to be welded up. If the parts are properly preheated and cooled slowly after welding, they should be ok to re-machine.
But if you can get new blanks, I would still recommend going that route.
C13-22-5281-7 - REAR AXLE SPACER - EACH - LONG AXLE BEETLE - GHIA - TYPE 3 WITH EARLY DRUMS Our Web Price US $7.50 2 required for 68-79 goes between the rotor and the axle nut.
Fixer of Stupidity at the Gates of Hell, 5160 feet underground.
66 Modified Manx,68 Kyote,74 Thing,74 Beetle, 76 Transporter,75 self made Double Cab,65 Meyers Manx,78Westy,68 Ghia, Mid engine Subaru powered GT2 Current projects: 72 Super
Post by Gary Hammond on Oct 8, 2011 22:43:55 GMT -5
Hi Jeff,
You might have to modify or make new mounts, but this would be easier and safer than welding and re-machining the cast hubs and cast rotors you have now.
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