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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 18, 2008 16:15:14 GMT -5
Hi All, We got my wife's computer all back to normal now, and mine in the shop was unaffected. I thought this site was acting up a couple of days ago, but must have just been a server somewhere not making connection. It seems to be OK now. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 14, 2008 22:56:45 GMT -5
I tried the better part of the last two days trying to get the x@#$%^&* virus off my wife's computer. I wounded it, but wasn't smart enough to figure it out by myself. So an IT guy whose wife works with my wife came out tonight, and had it cleared out in about 45min or so!! ;D It's back up and running good now. But my wife forbid my going back on the regular Bradley site! Hope to get started on Rob's project tomorrow. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 12, 2007 19:28:48 GMT -5
Hi Chad, It sounds like the P.O. (previous owner) may have replaced both cables and switched colors on you. Forget the colors and go by the + and - markings on the battery itself. Always hook jumper cables positive to positive and negative to negative. Hook the negative cable to the boost battery last. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 12, 2007 13:31:17 GMT -5
NO!!!It's negative ground!!Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 12, 2007 10:00:56 GMT -5
Hi Chad, what are the front body support tubes and the head light door cable and where are they? The front bumpers mount inside the two front body support tubes. The tubes are 1-1/4" or 1-1/2" ID pipe that bolts to the bottom of the floor pan and is then clamped to the lower torsion tube on the front suspension. The lower body nose piece is then clamped to these tubes to help support the front of the body. Here's a couple of pics of mine. (I notched mine to provide clearance for the front sway bar.) The headlight door cables are boat steering cable that goes from the headlight doors to an overcenter handle that is bolted to the tunnel of the floor pan where it can be reached by the driver. I modified the support tubes and also the headlight door cable handle on mine. The original set up is shown in the assembly manual which is just one of the many items in Jeff Troy's CD. I made a bell crank and rod assembly (for the headlight door cable) that extends through the center console I also made. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 11, 2007 23:52:25 GMT -5
Hi Chad, Welcome to the Bradley club! ;D Most of your questions are the frequently asked ones. These have all been answered many times on the old board which unfortunately crashed last month!! The original fuel tank was a metal (steel) boat tank. You may be able to have it boiled out at a radiator shop and then pour in a liquid plastic liner material that sets up. I did this to mine and it worked ok. You might also be able to find a new fuel cell or fuel tank about the same size from a boating supply house. I think Summit and Jegs also have tanks or fuel cells about this size. You can also fabricate one from scratch or have one custom built to your specs. As for the brakes, it's best to just replace all the parts with new ones. That means all the wheel cylinders, rubber lines, metal lines, and master cylinder. Also the shoes, drums, springs, and retainers if needed. The parts are rather inexpensive and available from several sources. The bottom body flange is attached to the floor pan by several bolts around the inside perimeter (passenger area) of the body. The steering column must be removed from the dash, the front body support tubes have to be unbolted from the body, and the headlight door cable removed before the body can be removed. If your car has a center console under the dash, it will probably need to be removed as well. And the wiring, fuel line, and heat ducts will all need to be unfastened from the engine. (If you remove the engine first, this will already be done.) Lift the body only at the wheel wells when removing it. The nose piece is pretty weak and can be damaged if you lift it from the front. One person at each wheel well is the suggested method. When reassembling, be sure to replace the rag or rubber joint between the steering shaft and steering box. This is a safety issue. And be sure to get a copy of Jeff Troy's CD. It will address nearly every issue you will be confronted with. Here's the link for the CD www.bradleygt.com/manuals.htmGary Hammond,
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Chassis
Jul 12, 2007 19:37:27 GMT -5
Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 12, 2007 19:37:27 GMT -5
Hi Rob, I figured out what the problem is. Rust/rot. The tunnel metal is thinner in spots due to rust in the tunnel. Had to build up some spots with weld material. Ended up burning holes out wider in order to find good metal. Once I hit good metal, I slowly filled in the hole with weld metal. Yeah, rust doesn't weld!! Had the same problem patching holes in my floor pan!! Gary Hammond,
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Chassis
Jul 11, 2007 22:51:46 GMT -5
Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 11, 2007 22:51:46 GMT -5
Hi Rob, I've never welded with a mig. My experience is all with stick, oxy-acetylene, and tig. The problem is getting more heat to the thicker metal and less heat to the thinner metal at relatively the same time. With either gas or tig welding this is accomplished by the angle of the torch and positioning the torch over the thicker metal longer and more frequently than over the thinner metal. With stick welding, you can do a back and forth weave spending more time over the thicker metal and less time over the thinner. You also have slag to deal with, and the possibility of trapping some slag in the weld. You might be able to use the weave process with a mig similar to the stick process. This would work best with shielding gas rather than with flux filled wire. I think another approach with a gas shielded mig would be to lay a nice bead only on the thinner metal first to build it up, and then weld the bead to the thicker metal with more heat on a second pass. I frequently use this layering process with good results while tig welding. Hope this helps. Like I said, my experience is all with other types of welders and not with mig. Gary Hammond,
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OMG!!
Jul 12, 2007 0:01:32 GMT -5
Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 12, 2007 0:01:32 GMT -5
Hi Leonard, Long time, no see! ;D Gary Hammond,
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OMG!!
Jul 11, 2007 14:48:52 GMT -5
Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 11, 2007 14:48:52 GMT -5
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