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Post by Gary Hammond on Sept 2, 2010 11:55:37 GMT -5
Hi Tony, Most of what I posted to this point was my understanding of a conventional U.S. engine. That's where most of my experience is. The ACVW dual relief system with built-in oil cooler is a different setup and operates a little differently. I found a post on The Samba website that shows how it operates. www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=280293&highlight=oil+pressureI have modified mine to a dry sump system with only one pressure relief valve, an external oil cooler, and external oil filter. So again, my experience is not with the stock VW system. From the Samba posting, it looks like your new case may have an undersized relief port from the oil control valve. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Sept 1, 2010 22:49:27 GMT -5
Check out the dyno charts on CB Performance's turn key engines for oil pressure, oil temp, cylinder head temp, and oil type. Keep clicking on the "next" button. They have several engines listed here. cbperformance.com/dyno/dynocharts.htmlGary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Sept 1, 2010 22:35:12 GMT -5
Hi Tony, It depends on how your engine is set up. Are you running a stock oil cooler? Pressure this high can damage a stock oil cooler and may eventually blow the seals where it mates to the block. The higher the rpm, the greater the bearing clearance, and the higher the bearing load, -- the higher the oil pressure must be to keep the space between the crankshaft and bearing filled with oil. The oil is trapped between the rotating parts and provides hydra-dynamic lubrication due to the rotating action wedging the oil. The oil also removes heat from the metal parts which is later removed from the oil by the oil cooler. In addition, the oil is heated by being forced through a restriction under pressure. The higher the viscosity and the higher the oil pressure, the more heat is produced by being forced through a restriction. So if way more oil than is needed for proper hydra-dynamic lubrication is forced through the clearance from extreme pressure, extra heat is generated and power is wasted. This will lead to extra pump wear and extra stress on the entire oil system including the oil cooler. For a mild, reasonably stock engine running 2500 to 4500 rpm I wouldn't go much over 45 PSI at operating temperature. Pressure at idle shouldn't drop below 15 to 20 psi. For a high performance engine capable of 6000+ rpm and 120+ hp, I would shoot for 55 to 60 psi and still maintain 15 to 20 psi at idle. Gary Hammond, P.S. --- You can buy adjustable spring anchor plugs that will let you set the oil pressure wherever you want it.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Sept 1, 2010 21:01:36 GMT -5
Hi Tony, Oil pressure that high is usually used with greater oil clearances (ie. .003" to .004"), heavier weight oil (ie. 20w-50 racing), and high sustained RPMs ( 6000 to 9000 rpm) racing engines. This sounds too high to me for a reasonably stock street engine with only .0025" bearing clearance. I would think the stock 45 psi at 2500 rpm and 158 deg temp up to maybe 55 psi would be better. I'm surprised that with 70 psi feeding a .0025" clearance you aren't getting oil temps in the 225 to 250 deg range! Are you sure all your gauges are accurate? Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 30, 2010 8:12:37 GMT -5
Hi Jerry, 45 psi warmed up sounds good. ;D My old Clymer shop manual calls for 42 psi at 2500 rpm (SAE 30 wt @ 158 o F) and a wear limit of 28 PSI. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 27, 2010 15:44:10 GMT -5
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 23, 2010 22:11:24 GMT -5
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 23, 2010 11:23:47 GMT -5
Hi Jerry, Thanks Guys, this is perfect , now the ? is, ............Also is the the sender with the 0-80 psi rating sufficient? Jerry Get the sender with the range closest to the gauge you have to get the nearest to correct pressure reading. 0 to 60 psi gauge will use a 0 to 60 psi sender. 0 to 80 psi gauge will use a 0 to 80 psi sender. 0 to 100 psi gauge will use a 0 to 100 psi sender .....etc. The ohm range rating of the sender also has to match the ohm range rating of the gauge. This rating will vary from brand to brand of gauge manufacturer. As to where the original builder ran the wire, and what color it might be, I have no idea. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 23, 2010 10:00:07 GMT -5
Hi Jerry, The sender is a variable resistance unit specific to the provided VDO pressure gauge. The original VW sending unit was just a pressure operated switch for an idiot light. They look very similar, but they're different on the inside. Here's a link to a vendor for VDO (and many other) gauges. They should have the proper sending unit for your gauge. www.egauges.com/vdo_sgrp.asp?Subgroup=Pressure_SenderGary Hammond, P.S. Sorry for the duplicate info. Eric posted while I was still in the process of typing my answer.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 8, 2010 19:33:36 GMT -5
Hi Ppanther37, 10psi sounds pretty low to me for street tires, even on a 1700Lb Bradley. I run 22psi in mine which seems to work well for me. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Aug 3, 2010 8:16:59 GMT -5
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 31, 2010 9:21:26 GMT -5
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 23, 2010 20:42:00 GMT -5
Hi Skip, Could you put the blue "Bradley Car Club Temporary Board :: General :: Bradley Discussion"at the bottom of the page also, so we don't have to go all the way back to the top? Also maybe shorter pages. You don't have to go all the way back to the top now!! Just open the "Forum Jump" box at the bottom of the page and click on "Bradley Discussion". It'll take you right where you want to go!! Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 10, 2010 9:08:11 GMT -5
Hi Ray, Just go to your local plumbing shop or hardware store. The support pipes called out in the build manual are just a couple of 1.25" ID pipes about 38" long each. Don't know what Jeff has, but 38" of 1 1/4" schedule 40 steel pipe only weighs 7 or 8 pounds each! Check out "Operation 34" of the build manual for details. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 7, 2010 12:08:46 GMT -5
Hi Derek, ............He said if I kept the engine under 3K rpm for longevity that I'd be running around 55mph depending on tire size. Is that right? I'd hoped that the car would be capable of cruising 70-80 mph on interstate. How fast will your car go at what RPM and with what tires? Sorry for the late answer, but here goes. ............1967 swing axle with .89 4th gear and 4.125 final drive ratio. Modified 1678cc engine, P235/60 R15 rear tires (796 rev/mile), and P215/60 R15 front tires (827 rev/mile). Calibrated electronic tach and speedo. It goes 20.53 MPH for each 1000 engine RPM in 4th gear. 72 MPH is 3507 RPM. Top speed ............... , don't really know. I chicken out at anything over 95MPH! Engine is good for 6000 RPM in all the lower gears though. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 7, 2010 11:44:06 GMT -5
Hi Horacio, ......and you should always keep a guard dog near by.. "Guard Dog" ...................I knew Chris was in the Guard, but I didn't know his dog was as well!! ;D (Sorry.....just couldn't resist.) Gary Hammond,
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locks
Jul 6, 2010 15:38:42 GMT -5
Post by Gary Hammond on Jul 6, 2010 15:38:42 GMT -5
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jun 29, 2010 13:25:43 GMT -5
Hi Ray, The original support tubes are shown and discussed under "Operation 34 - Install Front Bumpers" of the build manual. Jeff Troy included a copy of the build manual in the CD you purchased from him ......so you have a copy. Here is a picture of mine, which I modified to provide clearance for the sway bar. The lower lip of the nose is fastened to the pipe with a u-bolt through a heavy strap underneath. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jun 29, 2010 8:10:37 GMT -5
Hi Ray, Any suggestions or tips? should I try to lift that side while im fiber glassing it. Looks to me like stress damage due to no support under the nose of the body. This is typical damage when the support tubes are missing. I looked back at all the pictures you've posted and didn't see the support tubes in any of them. This area can also be damaged while raising the body by lifting at the nose. The proper way to lift the nose is to position a long board or pipe from side to side under the front wheel openings and lift from each side. Sorry, but I can't answer the rest of your questions about the actual fiberglass repair. I have no experience in that area. But any repair you do will require the nose support tubes to prevent recurring damage in this area. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jun 26, 2010 20:07:49 GMT -5
Hi Eric, Just went on your new site again a little while ago. It's coming along very nicely! I think it looks really good with the new Bradley pictures. ;D Keep up the good work. Your new site complements this message board very well. ;D And please fell free to re-post any pictures I've already posted. I've got lots of other pictures and a lot of technical info if you want to use any of it. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Jun 26, 2010 14:15:28 GMT -5
Hi Chris Geddes, I miss the main board too. It had our history built into it. ..... I miss the old board too! Even that neat picture of your GT sittin' under the tanker truck! ;D Glad to see you still have that "whacky" sense of humor. We've needed a little more of that around here lately. I'm givin' you another Karma for all your service to our country and to the Bradley Club. ;D Now about our imaginative tree house ................(I like that.) Gary Hammond, P.S. I remember when Kyle took over the old Bradley GEOCITIES site from someone else who started it and then abandoned it after the death of his son. Some time later, Kyle started a new (PLP) site which we all used for several years ;D before it became infected with the virus and he then started this "tempory" (PROBARDS) site we are currently using. The only other posters still active I can recall now from that very first site are MJ, Jeff Troy, Runnerjohn, myself and of course Kyle. An awful lot of different "posters" have come and gone from the "Bradley Club" over the years!
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Post by Gary Hammond on May 10, 2010 11:08:29 GMT -5
Hi Don, It's been over 10 years ago that I replaced all four of mine, so don't remember the exact procedure I used. But I do remember removing all four control arms using a procedure similar to the one described by Jeff (jspbtown). But instead of taking them to someone else, I replaced them in my own shop. To remove the old joints, I held each control arm in a bench vise and heated the area surrounding the ball joint with an oxy-acetylene torch before driving them out with a large heavy hammer! Then, after the arms cooled back to room temperature, I pressed each new ball joint into place with my 12 ton hydraulic press. And it took all 12 tons to do it! A bigger press would have done it easier. There is no master spline to worry about, as there is no indexing involved. Just press them into place. Heat and a big hammer is the recommended removal process, but a press must be used for installation. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on May 2, 2010 17:45:52 GMT -5
Hi MJ, Speaking of ... Your capture tank reminded me - Do you have a vent system for the crankcase? I'm running a dry sump oiling system which I have vented to the passenger side air cleaner base. The oil tank captures all the return oil with only a little vapor going to the air cleaner base to be consumed by the engine. The system seems to work really well while freeing up extra horsepower, adding oil capacity, and providing a reliable oil supply during hard cornering! ;D Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on May 2, 2010 17:09:41 GMT -5
Hi MJ, Gary: It looks like your tank is almost touching the transmission. In my VW vehicles the transmission twists a bit under load. Yours won't be touching the tank under the same circumstances, would it? (The cure for one of mine was to install torque braces.) The pictures are a bit deceiving. There's actually a good 3/4" clearance between the bottom of the tank and the top of the bell housing. I also installed urethane rear motor mounts, which greatly reduce engine rotation due to torque. And there is no up and down movement. I checked all this out when I re-fabricated the tank mounting brackets. The only place I had to add extra clearance was between the tank bracket and starter solenoid. All that, along with previously installed butt sag supports, keeps everything separated a safe distance. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Apr 29, 2010 7:57:26 GMT -5
Hi Dan, It was $109.99 + $12.95 shipping for a total of $122.94 two years ago. Their current price however, is $144.99 + $12.95 shipping for a total of $157.94. (It cost less during the Bush years before all the hope and change came to power! ) Here's the URL for them. Their item # is 38-530-186-00 PERMANENT FUEL TANK 13 GALLON 32"L x 10.19"W x 10.19"H $144.99 In Stock (The representative image shown is of a different model tank.) www.basspro.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10151_-1_10001_90762_225012001_225000000_225012000?cmCat=CROSSSELL_THUMBNAILGary Hammond, P.S. .....I see you are located in Canada. That might affect the shipping cost. And these are U.S. dollar prices not Canadian dollars. Don't know what the current exchange rate is.
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Post by Gary Hammond on Apr 28, 2010 10:45:43 GMT -5
Hi Dan, Nice install.What is the aluminum cylinder with the fitting on each end for? Thanks. The aluminum cylinder is a fuel catch can I made to catch and return fuel from the vent line back to the tank. Gary Hammond,
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Post by Gary Hammond on Apr 27, 2010 9:18:40 GMT -5
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Post by Gary Hammond on Mar 29, 2010 21:08:51 GMT -5
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Post by Gary Hammond on Mar 26, 2010 15:40:02 GMT -5
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Mirrors
Mar 25, 2010 13:51:13 GMT -5
Post by Gary Hammond on Mar 25, 2010 13:51:13 GMT -5
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