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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 3, 2013 22:59:20 GMT -5
Hi, 10,
I have two extra sets of new, still-wrapped doors on hand, so unless they can be had for very little, I'm probably not your buyer.
However, it may help you to move them more quickly if you give us a little more information.
1. Never mounted, okay, but were these doors cut down to fit the car, or are they still oversize as they came from Bradley, Allied Plastics or Sun Ray?
2. Have any holes been drilled in the doors for hinges, props, handles, locks or other hardware?
These are important factors. No two cars are alike, and the mounting holes for hardware and fasteners are bound to be off from one car to the next. Same goes for trimming the overage. Outlines will be close, but rarely identical from one car to the next.
BTW, I'm in Lancaster, not far from you at all. I get down to the Philly area fairly often. Lots of buds there, and my daughter works for the Philadelphia DA's office. Back in the '80s, I used to manage a hobby shop in the KOP Plaza.
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 22, 2013 17:11:46 GMT -5
Hi, Mario,
All good advice.
BTW, the "extra" pulley over your primary pulley appears to be the aftermarket unit for the Coolaire-Nordic Air-conditioning system that Bradley sold back in the day. I have the same one, and can't think of any other reason for it to be there. The long bolt was included in the kit, and was needed to replace the stock bolt, which is too short to engage with both pulleys in place.
You have my CD, so when you have nothing to do but lay around, take a look at the Coolaire-Nordic manual (#10 - Bonus Section, item 05). It shows the pulley (pages 10 and 11, item 33), and explains installing the long bolt (pages 2 and 3, items 10 and 11).
In truth, enjoying your car would be greatly increased if you had the rest of the A/C system. A GT with its lids closed in summer when it's raining is enough to kill almost any human being. Nice for defogging on those summer mornings, too. If there's dew on the grass, your GT windshield is a real mess. Always keep lots terry and paper towels in the car.
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 7, 2013 17:40:48 GMT -5
Hi, Cole,
For bettter response, you should specify GT or GTII, and include as many photos as possible.
If the car is a GTII, noting that the windshield is included and in god condition will be helpful. It's hard to move a Twoie without a windshield, which is all but irreplaceable.
Key differences, in case you are unaware, between thetwo body styles are as follows:
The GT has Plexiglas gullwings. No material surrounds the Plexiglas "doors." Engine access is through a wide door that exposes only the rear. The hood and rear deck have no openings. The GT has two tail lights on each side, one above the other. If you look at the image of my car at the left, it's a GT.
The GTII has fiberglass gullwing doors. Glass windows are installled into the doors during assembly. Engine access is through a narrow L-shaped hatch that opens to expose the top of the deck and the rear end between the two school bus-style tail lights. The forward deck has a hatch for gas tank access.
Good luck with your sale.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Sept 8, 2013 12:43:10 GMT -5
Hi, Buds,
I can't say for sure what Fiber Jet is, but Bradley offered dealer accounts to almost everyone the company reps spoke with about buying a car kit. You would get a discount if Bradley could have potential customers see your car to inspire them to buy. If you sold a car kit on the company's behalf, you were supposed to get a commission.
Home Depot, Lowe's and the local hardware store sell 3M Tape and Titebond glue. Grocery and convenience stores sell Bryers ice cream and Ballpark franks. Those are a few obvious examples of dealers that sell other companies' products. I don't see why Fiber Jet couldn't be an independent dealer who sold Bradley's products. That would easily explain the key chain and most anything else.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Sept 7, 2013 14:31:24 GMT -5
Hi, Newbe,
Removing the body isn't all that difficult. For the most part, you can just follow the body-on installation in the manual IN REVERSE. You'll just have to be on the alert for extra wiring or hardware that a previous owner may have installed. When you and your friends lift the shell, go slowly, and if you feel any resistance whatsoever, stop lifting and find out what's still connected.
Here is the information about my Bradley CDs: The Bradley GT and GTII CDs hold files of the original assembly and wiring manuals, as well as any official updates. The GT CD also holds roughly 36 years and 645 thousand actual miles worth of useful information.
Ordering is easy. Just send $35 through PayPal to jefftroy@aol.com , or you can send $35 by check or money order to:
Jeff Troy 759 New Holland Ave. Lancaster PA 17602
Be sure to state whether you need the GT or the GTII CD. The cars -- and the manuals -- are very different.
The advantage of the CD over an original printed manual is that you can take the pages out to shop and not have to worry about dogging them with oil, grease or other shop debris. If you ruin a page, you can just print another.
One of my CDs just may be the best money you can spend on your car. I'm sure that anyone who has it -- and most owners do -- will tell you that it's extremely helpful.
Bradley GT Information for Owners on CD-ROM Section 00: Text files Section 01: 1976 Original Configuration - Metallic Brown Section 02: 1980 First Rebuild - Cream, Copper and Brown Section 03: 1985 Second Rebuild - White, Blue, Pink and Purple Section 04: 1993-1995 Complete Restoration – Black with Flames Section 05: 1995 Shows Section 06: 1996 The Wreck Section 07: 1997-2000 Re-Body Donor Preparation – CromaLusion Plum Section 08: 2000-2002 Re-Body – Flames added Section 09: Post-2002 Car Shows Section 10: Bonus Section - Bradley GT Manuals and Literature Section 11: On The Road Section 12: Restoration Parts, Literature and Instructions Section 13: Sun Ray Products - Bradley GT Kits and Parts Section 14: Reference Materials Section 15: VW Part Source Catalogs Section 10: Work In Progress Files (additional files to be edited for all sections) Bradley GTII Structural Plans & Updates on CD-ROM Section 01: GTII Structural Plans, Screen Section 02: GTII Structural Plans, Print Section 03: GTII Parts Inventory Section 04: VW Part Source Catalog Recommendations Section 05: Kit in California 2000 Section 06: Arrival in Lancaster PA 2000 Section 07: Assembling the GTII Full Kit – (never built, so folder is empty) Section 08: Bradley Automotive Catalogs & Literature Section 09: Reference Book Recommendations Section 10: Dropping the Pan
Thanks and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 26, 2013 16:07:46 GMT -5
Nice work. Is that "one80two" a Skylane or something else?
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 3, 2013 8:49:30 GMT -5
Hi, Lazydog,
Assuming that you're writing about a GT and not a Twoie, the "right" place for the filler tube according to Bradley is at the upper side of the tank, so that the filler door is over the left rear fender. You're gonna hate it: it takes forever to fill the tank -- a total drag -- especially in winter.
Before you get too deep into an installation with the original tank layout, consider moving the filler tube to the rear edge of the tank at the center, so that the filler locates in the middle of the rear deck, just behind the rear edge of the Sundowner Convertible Window. If you have a fastback rear, you can devise some sort of an exit for the tube on your own.
The advantages to this modification include filling the tank from either side of a pump island so you have less or no waiting for an open pump, and quick fueling without ever popping the pump handle.
Any GT owner will tell you that the original setup is ridiculous, and that it takes anywhere from 6 to 15 minutes to fill the tank from empty. It's roughly 2 minutes after the mod.
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jul 27, 2013 21:46:21 GMT -5
Hi,
Get one of my CDs. Much more practical than an irreplacable manual, and costs a lot less. Lots of extras, too.
Here's the story on both CDs...
The Bradley GT and GTII CDs hold files of the original assembly and wiring manuals, as well as any official updates. The GT CD also holds roughly 36 years and 645 thousand actual miles worth of useful information.
Ordering is easy. Just send $35 through PayPal to jefftroy@aol.com , or you can send $35 by check or money order to:
Jeff Troy 759 New Holland Ave. Lancaster PA 17602
Be sure to state whether you need the GT or the GTII CD. The cars -- and the manuals -- are very different.
The advantage of the CD over an original printed manual is that you can take the pages out to shop and not have to worry about dogging them with oil, grease or other shop debris. If you ruin a page, you can just print another.
One of my CDs just may be the best money you can spend on your car. I'm sure that anyone who has it -- and most owners do -- will tell you that it's extremely helpful.
Bradley GT Information for Owners on CD-ROM Section 00: Text files Section 01: 1976 Original Configuration - Metallic Brown Section 02: 1980 First Rebuild - Cream, Copper and Brown Section 03: 1985 Second Rebuild - White, Blue, Pink and Purple Section 04: 1993-1995 Complete Restoration – Black with Flames Section 05: 1995 Shows Section 06: 1996 The Wreck Section 07: 1997-2000 Re-Body Donor Preparation – CromaLusion Plum Section 08: 2000-2002 Re-Body – Flames added Section 09: Post-2002 Car Shows Section 10: Bonus Section - Bradley GT Manuals and Literature Section 11: On The Road Section 12: Restoration Parts, Literature and Instructions Section 13: Sun Ray Products - Bradley GT Kits and Parts Section 14: Reference Materials Section 15: VW Part Source Catalogs Section 10: Work In Progress Files (additional files to be edited for all sections)
Bradley GTII Structural Plans & Updates on CD-ROM Section 01: GTII Structural Plans, Screen Section 02: GTII Structural Plans, Print Section 03: GTII Parts Inventory Section 04: VW Part Source Catalog Recommendations Section 05: Kit in California 2000 Section 06: Arrival in Lancaster PA 2000 Section 07: Assembling the GTII Full Kit – (never built, so folder is empty) Section 08: Bradley Automotive Catalogs & Literature Section 09: Reference Book Recommendations Section 10: Dropping the Pan
Thanks and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jul 10, 2013 22:13:53 GMT -5
Hi, Mario,
Thank you for the kind word about the CD. Glad to know that it's helping you. Also, thanks for the 3D file, which I hope add to the CDs asap.
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 18, 2013 21:37:10 GMT -5
Me and my 1976 Bradley GT in 2009. I'm the original owner/builder, and the car now has approximately 645,000 actual miles behind it. Custom interior is all light gray tuck & roll Naugahyde and velour, and all fasteners are polished stainless. Jet-Hot Metallic Ceramic is on the exhaust system and heat exchangers, bumpers and Indy wheels. Paint is DuPont Royal Plum ChromaLusion with pearl semi-ghost flames. Power is a 1600 DP with dual Kadron carburetors, Pertronix electronic ignition and Gene Berg exhaust components. The car has always been a daily driver, built for longevity and reliability, which are far more important to me than driving stupidly fast in a "boardwalk ride with a license plate."
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jun 4, 2013 18:02:59 GMT -5
miteod - just took him out.
Warmest regards...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 11, 2013 21:42:00 GMT -5
ivenn,
pm sent.
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Post by Jeff Troy on Apr 2, 2013 11:41:29 GMT -5
Sure, keep it. It's all fun, and we can all learn something from anyone or anything -- even if it's what not to do.
Always love seeing what you're up to.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 28, 2013 15:13:17 GMT -5
Hi, themosh,
My Bradley GT and GTII CDs hold files of the complete, original assembly and wiring manuals, and any official updates. The GT CD also holds roughly 36 years and 645 thousand actual miles worth of useful information.
Ordering is easy. Just send $35 through PayPal to jefftroy@aol.com.
If you don't use PayPal, you can send $35 by check or money order to:
Jeff Troy 759 New Holland Ave. Lancaster PA 17602
Be sure to state whether you need the GT or the GTII CD. The cars – and the manuals -- are very different.
One of the many advantages of the CD over an original printed manual is that you can take the pages you need out to the shop and not have to worry about dogging them with oil, grease or other shop debris. If you ruin a page, you can just print another.
One of my CDs just may be the best money you can spend on your car. I'm sure that anyone who has one -- and most owners do -- will tell you that it's extremely helpful.
Bradley GT Information for Owners on CD-ROM
Section 00: Text files Section 01: 1976 Original Configuration - Metallic Brown Section 02: 1980 First Rebuild - Cream, Copper and Brown Section 03: 1985 Second Rebuild - White, Blue, Pink and Purple Section 04: 1993-1995 Complete Restoration Section 05: 1995 Shows Section 06: 1996 The Wreck Section 07: 1997-2000 Re-Body Donor Preparation Section 08: 2000-2002 Re-Body Section 09: Post-2002 Car Shows Section 10: Bonus Section - Bradley GT Manuals and Literature Section 11: On The Road Section 12: Restoration Parts, Literature and Instructions Section 13: Sun Ray Products - Bradley GT Kits and Parts Section 14: Reference Materials Section 15: VW Part Source Catalogs Section 10: Work In Progress Files (additional files to be edited for all sections)
Bradley GTII Structural Plans & Updates on CD-ROM
Section 01: GTII Structural Plans, Screen Section 02: GTII Structural Plans, Print Section 03: GTII Parts Inventory Section 04: VW Part Source Catalog Recommendations Section 05: Kit in California 2000 Section 06: Arrival in Lancaster PA 2000 Section 07: Assembling the GTII Full Kit – NEVER BUILT: EMPTY FOLDER Section 08: Bradley Automotive Catalogs & Literature Section 09: Reference Book Recommendations Section 10: Dropping the Pan
Thanks and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Mar 2, 2013 21:11:31 GMT -5
Hi, Roo,
I've had my original 1600 DP in my Bradley since I built the car in 1976. In 1990, at 340,000 miles, I rebuilt the engine and changed to the 87mm jugs. Performance seemed quite a bit snappier, but I also switched to dual Kadrons and a Berg exhaust collector/muffler system, all of which contributed to the gain.
Now, at 645,000 miles, I am building a new engine for the car. This time it's a 1776, and for all the reasons you've read above. Primarily, it's the largest piston/cylinder arrangement that retains a reasonable wall. I don't race and I don't push my car -- ever -- so the 1776 seemed like the way to go.
As an aside, I'm also just finishing a Fiberfab MGTD Replica, and I chose the 1641 as the right street engine for that project. I wasn't looking for any extra power (it's a TD, dude), but no machining was required and the jug/cylinder sets were no different in price between the stock 1600s and the 1641s. I haven't finished the car yet, but the engine has been fired and runs very smoothly.
With roughly 300,000 miles on my 1641 rebuild, I can attest to the streetabilty of the 87mm jugs. Just do good work and follow the torque guides. Best rebuild book I've seen is "How To Rebuild Your Volkswagen Air-Cooled Engine" by Tom Wilson.
Good luck and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Feb 22, 2013 18:09:39 GMT -5
Tennis sneakers?
I built my GT in 1976, and it now has 645,000 actual miles behind it it.
It may be a boardwalk ride with a license plate, but build one right and a Bradley can drive just fine.
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Feb 18, 2013 15:14:12 GMT -5
Just look at the front bumper installation instructions in the manual.
The standard system works just fine, but you will probably have to shim the rear end of the bumper tubes where they fall short of coming into contact with the forward edge of the floor pan. If you pull the tube against the chassis without shimming, you will force the front of the body downward, eventually creating ripples and possibly cracks in the fiberglass.
There is an excellent shim system on my CD; it uses 1/4-inch by 3-inch square plates, stacked to fit between the tube and chassis, then welded to the tube to prevent the bumpers from being able to rotate out of alignment--simple and effective. You should also use a small tack weld between each of the bumpers and its carrier tube.
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 9, 2013 11:58:53 GMT -5
Positively good!!
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 9, 2013 11:54:28 GMT -5
Hi v61,
Yes. The CD(s) are available - always.
I travel a bit for my magazine. I'm leaving for California in the morning (Thursday) and will return late Monday. I can get a disk out to you on Tuesday, but unfortunately not before.
Here's the story on both CDs...
The Bradley GT and GTII CDs hold files of the original assembly and wiring manuals, as well as any official updates. The GT CD also holds roughly 36 years and 645 thousand actual miles worth of useful information.
Ordering is easy. Just send $35 through PayPal to jefftroy@aol.com , or you can send $35 by check or money order to:
Jeff Troy 759 New Holland Ave. Lancaster PA 17602
Be sure to state whether you need the GT or the GTII CD. The cars -- and the manuals -- are very different.
The advantage of the CD over an original printed manual is that you can take the pages out to shop and not have to worry about dogging them with oil, grease or other shop debris. If you ruin a page, you can just print another.
One of my CDs just may be the best money you can spend on your car. I'm sure that anyone who has it -- and most owners do -- will tell you that it's extremely helpful.
Bradley GT Information for Owners on CD-ROM Section 00: Text files Section 01: 1976 Original Configuration - Metallic Brown Section 02: 1980 First Rebuild - Cream, Copper and Brown Section 03: 1985 Second Rebuild - White, Blue, Pink and Purple Section 04: 1993-1995 Complete Restoration – Black with Flames Section 05: 1995 Shows Section 06: 1996 The Wreck Section 07: 1997-2000 Re-Body Donor Preparation – CromaLusion Plum Section 08: 2000-2002 Re-Body – Flames added Section 09: Post-2002 Car Shows Section 10: Bonus Section - Bradley GT Manuals and Literature Section 11: On The Road Section 12: Restoration Parts, Literature and Instructions Section 13: Sun Ray Products - Bradley GT Kits and Parts Section 14: Reference Materials Section 15: VW Part Source Catalogs Section 10: Work In Progress Files (additional files to be edited for all sections)
Bradley GTII Structural Plans & Updates on CD-ROM Section 01: GTII Structural Plans, Screen Section 02: GTII Structural Plans, Print Section 03: GTII Parts Inventory Section 04: VW Part Source Catalog Recommendations Section 05: Kit in California 2000 Section 06: Arrival in Lancaster PA 2000 Section 07: Assembling the GTII Full Kit – (never built, so folder is empty) Section 08: Bradley Automotive Catalogs & Literature Section 09: Reference Book Recommendations Section 10: Dropping the Pan
Thanks and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Jan 6, 2013 17:45:26 GMT -5
Thank you, admin, for your courtesy.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 11, 2012 16:54:46 GMT -5
Hi, Medic,
I'm here, I just get busy with my magazine or traveling and don't come on as often as I used to.
I don't recall getting an email from you about the CD, but if I am contacted directly, I always respond within a day, two at the latest.
There's more to body removal than the bolts, but it's basically just following the manual in reverse. Empty the gas tank and washer reservoir. Disconnect gas line from carburetor. Disconnect heater tubes between body side tunnels and heat exchangers. Disconnect engine wiring, brake wiring at the master cylinder and reverse light wiring from transaxle. Remove nine body bolts on each side. Remove all bumper and bumper tube fasteners, including the U-bolts around the front end tube. Disconnect steering biscuit and (don't have to but should) steering post/column tube. Disconnect speedo cable at wheel. Disconnect all ground wires to the chassis and steering box, and check carefully for non-standard owner add-ons that may be in the way. It's also a good idea to remove the shifter before lifting the body.
Don't lift by the bonnet. Lift under the wheel wells (one "roadie" under each well) for the least stress on the body. Raise the body slowly. If you feel any resistance, STOP and find out what and where it is. Remove whatever is hanging up, then try again.
Best to have at least four big bruisers around to lift the body. It isn't that heavy (approximately 300-350 pounds), but you'll have to get it high enough to clear the fan shroud if the engine is still mounted.
Two can do it, four is better. I've done it alone by tilting the body on its side, but you'll have to have a lot of furniture quilts along the side of the car. Try to avoid that if possible, it can be tough on the rear fender overhang and the unsupported center drop under the side tunnels.
The following is what I send out to people who inquire about the CD...
Hi,
The Bradley GT and GTII CDs hold files of the original assembly and wiring manuals, as well as any official updates. The GT CD also holds roughly 36 years and 645 thousand actual miles worth of useful information.
Ordering is easy. Just send $35 through PayPal to jefftroy@aol.com , or you can send $35 by check or money order to:
Jeff Troy 759 New Holland Ave. Lancaster PA 17602
Be sure to state whether you need the GT or the GTII CD. The cars -- and the manuals -- are very different.
The advantage of the CD over an original printed manual is that you can take the pages out to shop and not have to worry about dogging them with oil, grease or other shop debris. If you ruin a page, you can just print another.
One of my CDs just may be the best money you can spend on your car. I'm sure that anyone who has it -- and most owners do -- will tell you that it's extremely helpful.
Bradley GT Information for Owners on CD-ROM Section 00: Text files Section 01: 1976 Original Configuration - Metallic Brown Section 02: 1980 First Rebuild - Cream, Copper and Brown Section 03: 1985 Second Rebuild - White, Blue, Pink and Purple Section 04: 1993-1995 Complete Restoration – Black with Flames Section 05: 1995 Shows Section 06: 1996 The Wreck Section 07: 1997-2000 Re-Body Donor Preparation – CromaLusion Plum Section 08: 2000-2002 Re-Body – Flames added Section 09: Post-2002 Car Shows Section 10: Bonus Section - Bradley GT Manuals and Literature Section 11: On The Road Section 12: Restoration Parts, Literature and Instructions Section 13: Sun Ray Products - Bradley GT Kits and Parts Section 14: Reference Materials Section 15: VW Part Source Catalogs Section 10: Work In Progress Files (additional files to be edited for all sections)
Bradley GTII Structural Plans & Updates on CD-ROM Section 01: GTII Structural Plans, Screen Section 02: GTII Structural Plans, Print Section 03: GTII Parts Inventory Section 04: VW Part Source Catalog Recommendations Section 05: Kit in California 2000 Section 06: Arrival in Lancaster PA 2000 Section 07: Assembling the GTII Full Kit – (never built, so folder is empty) Section 08: Bradley Automotive Catalogs & Literature Section 09: Reference Book Recommendations Section 10: Dropping the Pan
Howzat?
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 9, 2012 19:49:53 GMT -5
Hi, Tri,
Ray's swamped all the time. He's a straight shooter and won't burn you, but putting anything from him in a sensible time frame when it isn't sitting on his shelves is....
I guess you've been there, so 'nuff said.
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 8, 2012 12:14:16 GMT -5
Positively not slamming you for being "thrifty," but I certainly am trying to save you cash in the long run. Buy crap once and you'll have to buy at least once more. Get the right thing in the first place and you'll usually come out ahead.
An important thing to consider with used Bradley Plexiglas is hole location. More often than not, a gull or rear window can be trimmed to fit reasonably well. The cars are different, but not too different. The basic shape of the bodies and T-tops didn't vary enough to make you completely give up on used windows.
Where the used Plexiglas bites you in the as* is trying to align the hinges on the gulls with the roof hinges, and worse, aligning the catches with the spring clips. Don't forget about the mailbox lock and sill-mounted striker plate.
Misaligned hinges mean having to either fill the unused holes in the Plexiglas or fill and paint over the now-unused holes in the top. Misaligned window catches means having to fill the old holes in the Plexiglas or repair the side-panel or jump-seat upholstery where the spring clips were formerly located.
Either way, you won't be happy, and it's HIGHLY unlikely - make that impossible - that all the hinges and catches on ANY two GTs will be in exactly the same locations - or distance away from each mating part.
More pointers:
1. The Sundowner Convertible Rear Window needs a fifth catch point at the top center of the window/roof. Without it, suction at speed can cause the center of the window to lift, releasing the side catches and dumping the window on the road - in several ugly pieces. Did that one twice before I realized what was going on.
2. My snap-strap window securing method is much cleaner and easier to use than the standard spring clips and catches that came with the car. More important, there's nothing to rust or rattle - or catch and tear your clothing when you get in and out of the car.
3. Take a pass on any attempt to use gas shocks on naked Plexiglas gulls. They might (snicker) be okay if you surround the gulls with metal or fiberglass, but the force of repeatedly compressing a gas shock will cause a naked gull to crack and break in the roof support area, and it won't take long. The weight of the window alone already causes the eventual failurure of the Plexiglas, even with the standard sliding props.
Further, when the window is closed, the force of the shock is still working against the window, and before it breaks, the corner of the gull will begin to warp, bowing upward and allowing airflow into the car, which negates any heat or air-co system in a car that is already poor to horrible for climate control.
4. Chris Geddes' window treatment is a great idea, but it detracts from the clean, terrarium look of the unobstructed gulls. To each his own with regard to appearance, so my opinion is nothing more than that, but the true down side is the further obstructed vision in a car that already has way too many problems in the look-see department.
Best anyway, and warmest regards...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Dec 7, 2012 22:15:32 GMT -5
Hi, All,
Roodog has it right, except for the fact that not only Sun Ray cuts the doors and rears oversize. Bradley cut them oversize, too, and for all the same reasons. These cars are not all alike, and each window must be cut to fit. Instructions were in (some of) the manuals.
Original GT gulls and rears were made by Allied Plastics, and they had white D.O.T. certification engraving on each one. Later, Ray Tierney (Sun Ray Products) was making the Plexiglas parts for Bradley and the D.O.T certification was no longer required.
When Bradley finally went under, Ray bought the leftovers, and except for a three- or four-year dry spell, he continues to produce them.
A word of wisdom is needed here. Buy a new Cadillac and a side window might cost $400 or more. If you paid $45,000 for the car, that may not seem like a lot to pay for a window. If you bought a wrecked Caddy that was sitting out in the weather and growing mice in the wiring but you wanted to restore it, that window would still cost $400 and up.
Just because you bought a kit car for next-to-nothing on the dollar, the price of new, quality parts doesn't and shouldn't change. Ray's Plexiglas parts are the only currently available gulls and rears that get the job done correctly. They are slightly thinner than the original DOT-spec Plexiglas parts, but still the best - and the only way to get good Plexiglas on your GT.
And before closing... NEVER use Plexiglas glass cleaner on your Bradley gulls and rears. Just like that ridiculous Arm*r*ll chemical mess, it looks and works fine if you use it regularly, but if you stop or take a break, the treated plastic (or vinyl/leather) hardens and splits, cracks or breaks. Worst crap under the sun.
Windex is also a no-no. It contains ammonia, and that's what causes almost every soft-vinyl window on convertible tops to cloud over.
I've had at least a dozen sets of gulls and at least five rear windows on my GT over the past 36 years and 600,000-plus miles behind the wheel. I've cleaned them - and broken them - in every possible way. My experience says that the only way to properly, safely and effectively clean Plexiglas windows is with warm water and mild dish detergent, like Palmolive green or similar.
If you have minor scratches in the gulls and rears, try toothpaste on a soft toothbrush. Give the Plexi cleaner to someone who owes you money and won't pay!
Best of luck and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 16, 2012 21:28:58 GMT -5
Looks good, ace.
Guess I'm just not enough of a gearhead: I liked the Rolls!
Warmest regards...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Nov 1, 2012 15:39:06 GMT -5
Hi, Guys,
Sorry to butt in, but Stray Cat (Al) is a longtime member and a big contributor to this site. A vW may not be a Bradley, but it IS our donar machine, and any post from Al should be welcome here.
Warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Sept 27, 2012 21:36:09 GMT -5
Hi, Oscar,
Wish I could help, but I can't.
I got a GTII windshield several years ago from Steve Striharsky, who has since passed away (Mike Horen now has Steve's beautiful blue Twoie). I sold my kit and all its spares about three years ago, so I no longer have a windshield to offer you.
Steve's wife had an extra windshield that my still be available. I think that mrbigh is a friend of hers and may be able to check this out. If so, he'll probably chime in. Price, when available, was $500 and shipping, whic is very reasonable for a one-of-a-kind piece of specialty glass these days.
Best of luck and warmest regards,
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Post by Jeff Troy on Sept 14, 2012 17:05:40 GMT -5
Whisky,
This is absolutely a manner friendly site. If you read my post, the reference was no more than common language.
The "co ck"pit is where you sit in an airplane, and according to whom you are speaking, myself included, most exotic sports or race cars.
"Interior" is better used for the inside of a Beetle, a Chevy Biscayne or my minivan.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Sept 12, 2012 14:52:26 GMT -5
Hey, MJ,
Always impressive. Love the gray thingypit and brushed panel.
Hope you're doing okay.
Warmest...
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Post by Jeff Troy on Sept 8, 2012 14:43:12 GMT -5
Hi, Roo,
Be careful with raising the body too high. It can and will distort the steering box-to-dash geometry. A minor correction isn't a problem for the box, but an extensive raise will force you to relocate your column-to-dash arrangement.
Also, there is a factory drawing for the Bradley Automotive Pan Drop on my CD, as well as a dozen or two images of installing the drop on my car's chassis.
BTW, my wife, daughter and I do English Setter rescue, and we have one of three adopted dogs that "roo." Other breeds do that as well, but I just wondered...
Good luck with the car and warmest regards,
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