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Post by horen2tas on Mar 22, 2012 10:01:06 GMT -5
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 17, 2012 22:37:09 GMT -5
Thanks JSP, I'll check on it tomorrow It looks like the local "zone" down here has to special order it but that's not a prob. Is this the high torque one?
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 17, 2012 20:38:35 GMT -5
MyGt2 may be in need of a starter motor, I've seen a few posts recommending the autostick starter. Advance Auto has the Bosche rebuilt for $119.00 (one year warranty) new Bosche for $180.00 ( lifetime warranty) My Chassis and trans are '70 will the autostick starter work in my set-up without any mods?
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 12, 2012 21:13:29 GMT -5
Am I seeing GT2 seats in there?
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 11, 2012 8:56:04 GMT -5
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 11, 2012 1:05:13 GMT -5
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 9, 2012 16:18:57 GMT -5
The 1300 is a great engine, I bought one as soon as they came out for my split back in '65.
I used to cruise at 65-70 all day long in that tin can
That 1300 will push your GT just fine!!
In a time when everyone is faced with bigger and better, thow it out and buy a new one,
I like your thinking -- budget conscious!!!
Best of luck with it!!
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 8, 2012 15:13:27 GMT -5
Where do you live? That's a major item as to how far you want to tow or do you want one that's fully drive-able? I bought two separate deals off of Craig'sList One was a complete un-built kit, the other was a beater.
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 8, 2012 15:05:04 GMT -5
Is that another opening on the top of that valve? I once saw a very similar set-up that was used for injecting a water alcohol mix supposedly to increase gas mileage and run cooler, the tube on the top would be connected to a gallon container and you'd fill it periodically. I had one on my 67 bus and crossed the Rockies with it I couldn't say for sure whether or not it worked but it certainly gave me confidence! I think it was in the same category as "Snake-Oil". Although I do believe the 48 Cadillac came stock with one of those also. It'll be interesting to hear from some of the more experienced motor-heads what exactly that is since I'm just guessing!
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 4, 2012 16:00:58 GMT -5
Dan: I can see the apron part on your Ghia but what did you use directly around the block, cylinder shields and heater hoses? Do you have a pix that will show that detail?
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 3, 2012 22:24:16 GMT -5
Thanks all, went out and pulled the plugs in the fan shroud tonight, tomorrow I'm going to disconnect the flex hoses to the body and run them facing down or out to the sides for the time being, I'm thinking that if I open the flaps to the heater boxes so that it's in the same position as "heat-on" in the car I'll be cooling the heat-sinks better. My next step will be to make some templates to separate the top from the bottom and fab some sheet metal. Somewhere on this board I remember some good pix of what others have done to create the separation in tin-work
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 3, 2012 20:20:26 GMT -5
Thanks for all the info, I really appreciate it I haven't run the engine since I plugged the fan shroud exits so I'm going to pull the plugs and disconnect the flex tubes that go to the body. I forgot about the heat sinks inside the boxes, they would definitely run the heat way up if there was nothing cooling them. My exchangers I believe are after market and are not as complete as the illustration That Dan put up. I'm tempted to swap out the fancy chrome shroud for a more substantial stock set=up and to put on the stock exchangers also, I really want to try to get longevity out of the motor, so I appreciate all the suggestions and help!
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 1, 2012 18:06:09 GMT -5
So when the flap in the heater box is closed the air goes into the heater box and stops there except for what leaks out from the tin pressed around the manifold.
Are you saying that the air coming into the boxes is cooling the heads?
If anything it would be cooling the manifolds and possibly the connections at cylinder#3 & #2
the plugs I used were modified fence post caps, the concave crown of which is force fitted facing into the shroud
I don't have "j" pipes are you referring to the manifolds that are part of the boxes?
Obviously I don't want to beat-up my motor and I certainly respect your opinion and experience. My heat exchangers I believe are aftermarket and don't have all the flaps and stuff that the stock VW ones have. I don't have a thermostat either. I just want it to run as cool as is possible down here. Average temps are around 80-85 right now.
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 1, 2012 0:17:07 GMT -5
Thanks for that info!
I basically can unscrew the top heater tube connections to the fan shroud and pull the plugs I fabbed and turn it back into normal heaterbox set-up.
Thanks also for the feedback on the Gene Berg dipstick! I'll probably go with that for starters
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 29, 2012 19:46:13 GMT -5
An oil temp gauge and/or a cylinder head temp gauge is really never a bad idea. Thanks I agree there's a huge amount written on the most common causes of cooling problems leading to melt down. according to Gene Berg the main thing to monitor is oil temp,he says gauges can be off up to 50 degrees. He's got a sensor that attaches to the dipstick or replaces it and causes an idiot light to start to blink @ 210 degrees and come on steady @ 230 other people have used a wide range of devices including candy thermometers in place of the dipstick--must be fun to stop run back and check the temp! I'm just trying to figure out if I did the right thing in blocking the heater tube outlets on the fan shroud.
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 29, 2012 15:49:47 GMT -5
I'm not sure since at this point there is no temperature gauge installed
Which leads me to the another question, do I want to have one? I recently saw that someone on TheSamba had offered the classic dipstick temperature sender for around $40.00
In the past I've had a lot of aircooled VW's none had temp gauges and none except the bay window ever overheated. But the present set-up has a few mods on the engine and I'd like to be able to keep it together, I've got about 800 miles on the build
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 29, 2012 10:56:04 GMT -5
The fan is cooling the engine, FL. is HOT, keep the fan.Block it at the heater out box. I didn't mess with the fan, I plugged the fan housing where the down tubes go to the heater boxes. In my mind the fan is then not having to push air anywhere other than inside the housing more better for cooling no?
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 28, 2012 19:39:16 GMT -5
I've been driving my twoie around in South FL and have been getting my feet toasted. I traced the problem to a bent pivot on the driver side box not allowing the flap to close all the way. Fixed! Then I began to wonder with the fan pushing that hot air down to the boxes and stopping there, would I be running a little cooler if I just blocked the down tubes right a at the fan housing and let the fan just deal with whats inside the housing? I found a fitting that force-fit the openings thereby blocking them and reconnected the tubes. Has anyone had any experience with doing this? I don't want to get rid of the heater boxes altogether since I'll need some heat when I'm driving in the Catskills during fall and besides that the tube set-up is really pretty
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 3, 2012 9:27:56 GMT -5
Now those are really-really funny! Gave me a good laugh!
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 1, 2012 23:35:38 GMT -5
Nice idea, I like that! Good on Ya! I've had quite a few AHH S#$t moments with drivers down here in south FL
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 1, 2012 20:44:18 GMT -5
Just got off the phone with a gent that had disc brakes (brand new in the box) advertised on Craigslist.
It turns out that he has a complete MG kit never been built, it comes with everything including a modified engine with dual Webers (except wiring harness).
He said he originally tried selling the whole deal for $2200 but would be glad to get $1000 because his wife would like him to clear out the garage.
His name is Lee Page and he can be reached at 954-968-2904
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 1, 2012 18:12:27 GMT -5
That's an idea but I'd still like to get some storage out of it since if I'm riding alone the empty seats gets loaded with a pile of cd's, sunglasses, remotes for the radio, garage door etc. etc.
I'm thinking about making a framework with a door on top that opens for the storage part and is covered & padded on top and around the the side edge. I've seen the technique they use for speaker clusters where they stretch fabric and coat it with resin, I think that would about do it.
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Post by horen2tas on Feb 1, 2012 14:09:51 GMT -5
Has any one made arm rests for the 2? I've been thinking about doing them along the door panels and making storage inside for all the odds and ends you need when on the road.
The center console is comfortable for one arm but it would be really cool to have a place to rest the other one.
My dash doesn't have a glove box because of the radio mounted in it. CD's GPS etc. etc. need a place out of the way. Probably would effect the gulls lifting but That's fixable.
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Post by horen2tas on Jan 30, 2012 18:20:46 GMT -5
Here's a Picture of Steve's 2 with the plexi engine cover When I got the car the cover had been smashed and the scoop was cracked in half. I had a friend bend a new piece of plexi (120 degrees in case you're interested) and went on line and found some boat vents that I liked and after a few tries at cutting the stuff I came up with this: a closer view:
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Post by horen2tas on Jan 29, 2012 1:11:02 GMT -5
Mine has a 2180 with about 500+ miles on. It has a stroker crank and mod cam set-up and my concerns were the same as yours, how long will this last as a daily driver. The first part of the advice that you got was good, don't put your foot in it. I was told by the mechanic who rebuilt it to set the valves at .016 another mechanic who I've grown to like said no-way set them at .006. He also said to use Brad Penn racing oil straight 30. I'll probably do that also. I've gotten over the amazement of how fast it is out of the gate and am now driving it for longevity and using and enjoying all that torque and power when I am up at highway speeds but still not punching it. I'm probably going to pull the engine at 1000 miles and torque the heads and whatever else I can get to. I'll keep you posted as I get more miles on it.
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Post by horen2tas on Jan 26, 2012 20:08:01 GMT -5
The GT2 takes a windshield that was made only for that model Bradley. They are rare to find but there are some around. Skip20 on this board did a mod that takes a 280Z windshield. If you do a search there's a long string on that mod. Sometimes buying a junker that has a windshield is a solution that will give you extra body parts to patch with if you need them.
Good Luck!
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Post by horen2tas on Jan 22, 2012 23:20:08 GMT -5
everyone washes their shirts differently and that treatment over the years, has been less than satisfactory with vinyl transfers. I have some for years, that I like as a design but not to wear because it's like having a plastic bag on your chest. Yes you'll love the design but be if-y on comfort.I've been designing and printing T's for 50 years and I still say screen or subli-graphics is the way to go!
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Post by horen2tas on Jan 22, 2012 11:34:29 GMT -5
T shirts are very simple to do, I would not recommend using a cut vinyl transfer, unless you want a metallic or sparkly effect. Printing direct screen with fabric inks makes for a softer more comfortable and breathable wear. Maybe someone who has some graphics already prepped can post it so each member who is interested can download it and take it to their local printer. Often in mass printings quality is sacrificed especially when it comes to the shirt, if you pick your own garment with a printer and take them the design it'd be fairly straight forward
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Post by horen2tas on Jan 17, 2012 21:09:00 GMT -5
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Post by horen2tas on Jan 16, 2012 9:16:01 GMT -5
I'd go with Laser cut brushed metal
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