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Post by horen2tas on Jun 7, 2012 13:53:28 GMT -5
Skip, it would be great if you show some pix of how you set up and do that,
I've wondered about glassing in metal parts and the best way to do it.
Thanks for all the great info so far,
Mike Horen
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Post by horen2tas on Jun 3, 2012 18:01:49 GMT -5
Hi Leonard, your car looked great in the pix, but I noticed one thing, the VW's opposite you were very close to the ground. I think maybe the problem you're having with your turn signals could be the ground so I modified your stance to be more like those other VW guys-- I think they're onto something!
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Post by horen2tas on Jun 2, 2012 20:57:29 GMT -5
Very cool guys,
looks like a lot of fun & good times,
thnx for sharing the pix
next best thing to being there!!
Enjoy!!!!
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Post by horen2tas on May 30, 2012 20:18:40 GMT -5
Well dropped the muffler off in Chicopee Mass. Then wandered down to Berlin Connecticut to Bug City, www.bugcity.com/a pretty amazing parts and repair shop for vintage VW. Worth checking out Picked up a Bugpack glasspack to hold me over until my staniless beauty gets fixed. It fit perfectly under the Brad and when the muffler repair is done I'll put it in with a "never-built" GT2 kit that I'll be selling in a few weeks on CL.
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Post by horen2tas on May 25, 2012 15:41:12 GMT -5
[quote author=horen2tas board=general thread=41 post=10134 Could turn the seat around I guess. There's a LOOONG way to good. You may notice there's no floor & thinking of making a fiberglass front firewall. No floors is good ya see watcha run over Fred Flintsone no floors too, stop real good!!
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Post by horen2tas on May 24, 2012 22:38:46 GMT -5
Hoo boy! You R Fahmoos! Now we waitin for the you drivin around in utube! Hope not 4 gears in reverse and one forward!! you gettin close! Much luck!! Mike
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Post by horen2tas on May 22, 2012 19:20:41 GMT -5
Thanks big bob, as luck would have it I paid for the trailer with my wife's Amex card and decided to call them and run the whole tale past them. The Amex rep said they would take over the dispute with Uhaul and that the arbitration would take 6-8 weeks, he left me with the feeling that they were not going to back down and pay them! Today an adjuster/ assessor from Hagerty showed up and took pictures and measurements (required by Hagerty's) and also left me with the impression that they were going to cover the repair--I've got zero deductable. I also found what looks like a great shop to do the welding and straightening on Steve's muffler-creation, the owner Andy Gray said he'd love to do the work on it. Here's his website-- very Zany guy! www.leftfieldengineering.com/Life is Good!!
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Post by horen2tas on May 17, 2012 8:56:32 GMT -5
Yep, got back Tues about 5:30 pm, but the aggravation started the next morning when I took the Brad off the car carrier and found that the beautiful exhaust system crafted by Steve was pushed back on one side and cracked in the middle. Made me sick to my stomach!
Called UHaul and complained on two counts: 1. The equipment they rented me was old and not set up for a vehicle with low ground clearance 2. Uhaul dealer guided me onto the carrier and saw that my muffler hit a raised tab on the trailer and didn't say anything.
Uhaul offered to deduct $50.00 from the bill and give me a $40.00 gift certificate on my next rental. I told them I didn't want to be charged anything for the rental -- the drop off dealer up here in NY couldn't believe they gave me such an old rig to travel the distance I did. Fortunately he was on my side and noted all the things that were wrong with the trailer.
When I called again after I dropped off the trailer they said my case was closed since I had declined their offer. I complained again about the damage and they referred me to their insurance carrier to set up a claim--Republic Western when I called them Igor answered and I asked if they were the ones that covered claims with Uhaul and he became evaisive, so I hung up and called Hagerty, my insurance co and they were very understanding, and set up a claim.
They said an adjuster would get to me within 24 hours and they would proceed from there, so that's where I am right now.
In order to make it right the passenger side muffler will have to be bent back in place and a new weld laid into the seam and then most likely need re-plating. Fortunately my Hagerty policy is zero deductible so I'm hopeful to get it fixed back to original.
Anyway that's why I haven't posted my arrival back--been occupied with the hassle with Uhaul.
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Post by horen2tas on May 14, 2012 21:30:09 GMT -5
Today 2 hours of sun through Georgia then 6 hours of driving rain extreme thunder/lightning storms plus typhoon warnings over the radio, made it to Richmond, VA and the waterproof cover managed to stay on (strapped down) the twoie, otherwise it would have turned into an aquarium.
Hope to make it back home by tomorrow evening.
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Post by horen2tas on May 13, 2012 23:17:30 GMT -5
Goodbye FL making my way back up to the Shawangunk Mountains, pulling the twoie back home on a UHaul.
Just hit Georgia and shut down to spend the night, get a fresh start in the morning, one more night on the road and hopefully home by Tuesday.
Would have liked to have driven the twoie but just got it running again this week and didn't have the time to check it out for a long run!
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Post by horen2tas on May 13, 2012 22:34:33 GMT -5
Those are decent blocks but I went with the heavy duty nautical one that I pictured at the start of my string.
In the first place it has a snap on cover that stores a spare fuse and all connectors are screw on.
I've had it with push on tabs and I want to avoid them wherever possible.
My electrics are 110% better now as a result of installing that fuse block and wiring in the heavy duty ground cables suggested by MJ, and terminated with JSP's suggestion for using the radio shack blocks with the common bridge they sell.
Thanks to you both very big help!!!!
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Post by horen2tas on May 10, 2012 22:40:07 GMT -5
I agree it's big time illegal to feed reptiles down here even if it's with your own body!
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Post by horen2tas on May 9, 2012 21:38:02 GMT -5
I could see driving without the doors on a GT because the door sills are cut higher.
But on a twoie, I don't think so. You're really low to the ground as it is and the doors are cut much lower. Down here in FL, I'd be afraid of lizards jumping in.
I run without the roof windows and that has a very open airy feeling not exactly like a convertible
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Post by horen2tas on May 3, 2012 11:35:35 GMT -5
As I get further into the wiring problems, One of my fuse blocks has terminals that spin around (rivets loose). I need a six in line fuse block. I'm thinking that I'd be better off with screw down terminals rather than blades and the new type fuses rather than the glass. Lots out on the market, any recommendations? I tracked down a fuse block called Blue Sea model 5035 any thoughts???
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 29, 2012 22:01:54 GMT -5
Thanks Gary, The under dash is my next step.
As you might know Steve was a mad man, besides the afterburners that are activated by a micro-switch on the shift handle, there are blue flourescents all around the underneath of the car, that and pretty much everything else he added on is done in red wire which he must have had a huge spool of.
There are faded masking tape tags here and there on wires, some of which are cut off and some which have three or four different color wires spilced in one line as well as cryptic notes in the build manual, believe me it's not for the faint of heart.
I think you're correct with your suggestion on the fuse blocks and ign switch, I plan to start there. Though I'm not exactly sure how to use a volt meter, I'll figure it out.
Thanks for the input!
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 29, 2012 19:30:18 GMT -5
Thanks Gary, I wasn't sure about whether the coil had to be mounted on something that was itself grounded.
The Battery negative does go to the starter mounting bolt through the trans and engine case. The ground between the trans and chassis was originally hooked up to the trans nose mount on the chassis and I moved it to the trans itself and the chassis.
From there I used MJ's suggestion and picked up #2 ExCellene welding cable and ran it from the trans nose up the heater channel to the front and brought it inside the foot well.
I ran a second cable back to the drivers side rear light well where there was a really nasty looking bunch of wires all twisted together with a blob of solder on them I used the terminal blocks suggested by JSP on the "Belchertown Special" and soldered and shrinkwrapped away. Result--the tail lights work fine, but no juice to the motor.
I hope that I'll find it - but somewhere there's an intermittent - and I'm not real great at shooting electrics.
Also my turn signals--sometimes they work and sometimes they don't.!
Too dangerous too drive a twoie without turn signals, I can't get my arm through that little window quickly and easily enough to signal.
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 29, 2012 10:43:42 GMT -5
This may seem a stupid question but I'm having a lot of electrical problems with my GT2.
It seems to have an intermittent problem (among others) with spark to the motor.
My coil is mounted on the side wall of the engine compartment whereas most that I've seen are mounted on the fan shroud. Does the coil get it's ground from being mounted on something that is already grounded?
My turn signals are also an intermittent issue.
Ive just finished running separate grounds in the driver's side rear tailight to a terminal block and the lights work fine, I plan to do that though out the car wherever the grounds are daisy chained but the intermittent stuff in the mean time is driving me nutz!
Anyone have some thoughts?
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 20, 2012 8:39:06 GMT -5
I would get the passport and find a way to come down and pick it up in person,
It's not worth the risk unless you build a crate, fill it with shock absorbent material
& insure it for much more than it's worth so you can get another for free.
If you're really set on having one shipped I'd get in touch with a glass replacement company
and find out how they ship product also with a shipper to get some tips and info.
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 19, 2012 7:17:01 GMT -5
Right you are Dan, there are so many pages of great viewing It didn't dawn on me until after I posted that you were using the Sube auto-tranny with your build. I envy you talent and skills!!
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 18, 2012 22:07:39 GMT -5
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 18, 2012 21:57:14 GMT -5
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 15, 2012 17:48:29 GMT -5
MJ Thanks so much for all the help I'm ordering the cable and I have another question--you stated"Wherever I wanted ground, I tapped into the cable and used connection blocks"
Do you have a link or a description on the connection blocks? Obviously you didn't cut the cable so I'm thinking these blocks must come in halves sort of like the grounds you see with plumbing stuff that splits to go on a pipe?
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 14, 2012 23:45:22 GMT -5
Thanks MJ you're on a roll, like jump down turn around pick a bale o' cotton!!! I appreciate the help, I'm sure Steve's smilin' down! Thanks man, Mike horen
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 14, 2012 21:32:00 GMT -5
MJ a few questions:
Front ground do you mean using the Frame head / chassis as the beginning point for ground?
Grounding Engine and transmission separately? cable from engine to Chassis? cable from transmission to chassis also?
Could you be a little more specific as to how you eliminated daisy chain --separate ground to each instrument?
Does the negative from the battery equals ground? So wherever that attaches is the start of ground?
Excuse my stupidity but I forgot a lot of my junior high electric shop it's been more than 55 years!
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 14, 2012 21:18:54 GMT -5
A few years ago I posted that I used a #2 welding cable that is bolted to the front ground , then it runs behind the dash, and then to the transmission and engine through the heater channel. Wherever I wanted ground, I tapped into the cable and used connection blocks. It is important to ground the transmission and engine independently, although a lot of people just put a cable between them, and ground the transmission. See jspbtown's setup. It is beautiful. Another thing I did was to rewire the instruments, everything behind the dash. The original wiring was horrible there, wires daisy-chained in series between instruments so that when one connection failed, other instruments would fail. It was worth the trouble. Welding cable: store.weldingdepot.com/pdf/weldingcable.pdfOriginal switches: www.bradleygt2.com/cat/catalog.php?auto=gt2
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 4, 2012 22:13:22 GMT -5
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Post by horen2tas on Apr 3, 2012 22:25:39 GMT -5
Someone not to long ago gave sources for a ground set up that was like a terminal block that allowed a lot of connections to one block that was fed by a heavy line from ground.
I'm starting to have intermittent electrical problems. I'm seeing that the P.O. twisted a bunch of wires together and then soldered one wire on to that and ran it down to the chassis it looks like they're starting to come apart here and there so I'd like to take care of it piece by piece.
I also am suspicious of some of the rocker switches on the dash, there's an outfit in the UK that has them, but has anyone found a good U.S. source?
Any help/ advice would be appreciated.
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 26, 2012 21:59:12 GMT -5
Back to my original question re: stainless steel line through the tunnel.
How much time do you think I have before I can expect it to break apart?
B.T.W. I see a lot of applications of stainless on automotive web sights including fuel and brake lines.
I need some time to regroup and get the materials that I'll replace the s.s. set-up with but I'd like to be able to drive in the meantime.
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 25, 2012 17:45:37 GMT -5
The PO on my GT2 ran a stainless braided gas line from the tank in front along the outside under side of the chassis (beside the body mounting bolts) to a filter in the drivers side rear fender and then rubber line to the fuel pump (standard mechanical) and then to the carbs. Last week the braided sprung a leak and I had a friend replace it with a braided hose he picked up at a swap meet (15' long) that also turned out to have a leak so we ran a stainless tube through the tunnel from the front center of the tunnel head and exiting the back along the drivers side transmission mount.
My question is on the rubber connectors from the tank in front and from the stainless tube in back there are quite a few twists and turns up and down.
Is there an Physics Laws that won't allow for ups and downs in the line if the gas is going to flow?
I don't want to install an electric pump but I'm having some trouble with the motor cutting out.
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Post by horen2tas on Mar 22, 2012 19:54:56 GMT -5
Thanks Wyn I thought being able to turn the lock with the key would simply lock the push button and prevent it from plunging.
Duh! (wishful thinking) .
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