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Post by mrbigh on Oct 24, 2010 16:33:23 GMT -5
The master cylinder carries at least one switch for the stop lights
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Post by mrbigh on Oct 22, 2010 19:39:02 GMT -5
Does anyone here own a GT2 that was sold by Bradley as a turn key car? If so what was it titled as on your title/ownership? Also did they use the original VW chassis number as the VIN or did they get a new VIN assigned to them? If you have a car that was not a turn key and is not titled as a VW, what is yours titled as? What VIN did they use {chassis # or something else} Thanks Dan Mine is titled as a '79 Bradley GT II. Original chassis is IRS '74. Was register in PA and the DMV assigned their own number.
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Post by mrbigh on Oct 21, 2010 12:39:50 GMT -5
Horatio, Would you be so kind as to provide vendor info and P/N's for the lift struts you purchased? Thank You, Tony O OK, here I found the dealer and their part # 10148. gas liftersI used this for the GT-II gull wing doors and the rear glass too, they are the same size, ball socket. Their current price is about $17.00 a piece. In the "search by keyword" type the part number. I hope this information help many ones.
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Post by mrbigh on Oct 19, 2010 20:58:20 GMT -5
This just sucks, After hours of searching the net, I located a supplier of the struts for the doors and rear glass. McMaster-Carr Supply, they have a searchable online catalogue and online ordering. and reasonable prices. I set up an account with them and placed my order. A few hours later I got this email from them. Thank you for your order. Unfortunately, due to the ever increasing complexity of United States export regulations, McMaster-Carr will only process orders from a few long-established customers in Canada. We sincerely regret any inconvenience this causes you. Thank you, Tiffany Sedlacek Customer Information McMaster-Carr Supply 330-995-5962 I just spent another couple of hours searching for a Canadian supplier with an online cat and ordering. Cannot find anything. Does anyone have a link to a Canadian supplier of the gas struts for a GT2? I'm willing to receive your merchandise from McMaster-Carr and sent it back to you in Canada. I do not know how much they quoted you in price, but I replaced all my GT-II door and glass lifters with a local supplier and very economic. Horacio
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Post by mrbigh on Oct 17, 2010 20:46:13 GMT -5
DAVIDSIGOUIN I sent you a PM Horacio
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Post by mrbigh on Oct 14, 2010 15:06:54 GMT -5
JSPB, is this a swing or IRS chassis?
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Post by mrbigh on Sept 30, 2010 18:54:36 GMT -5
Man, you'r right; and I have the same problem in mine.
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Post by mrbigh on Sept 30, 2010 10:28:04 GMT -5
Nice pictures of the upgrade and rejuvenating process. Keep up the tedious job............ ;D
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Post by mrbigh on Sept 27, 2010 11:46:48 GMT -5
You guys are giving SKIP20 to many ideas....... ;D
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Post by mrbigh on Sept 26, 2010 18:51:26 GMT -5
Just say no Skip!!! It changes the lines of the bradley too much in my opinion!!! the bottom 10"-12" would look nice if you just used the center 4' section. I would have to use the original upsweep on the tail though if not it's gonna start looking like an ordinary ricer from the back!!! Hey, let " Igor" finish his Frankenstain car....... it will be ONE of a kind....but not a Bradley.
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Post by mrbigh on Sept 7, 2010 8:01:11 GMT -5
The long tie rod off the GTII I'm working on has a bend in it. Is that correct or should it be straight? Mine looks the same, with a small curve towards the end but, the car drives fine and I never wanted to fix what ain't broken. Now I'm getting concerned.
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 29, 2010 15:35:59 GMT -5
HELLO TO ALL I AM FRENCH I have a GT BRADLEY VERY VERY VERY RARE IN EUROPE FROM U.S. HERE YOU SPEAK OF ONLY 4 IN EUROPE FULLY RESTORED EVEN ME I CAN YOU POST PICTURES IF YOU ARE INTERESTED Welcome to the forum This Bradley will be a great restorer project. Congratulations on your GT1 acquisition.
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 27, 2010 16:20:24 GMT -5
Cooolll ;D ;D I want to play with your toys..
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 19, 2010 17:49:48 GMT -5
Thank you to all looks good , i will try to insert another picture on my own, aHAHHAH Holy banana!!! that is big i will see why the pictures are so big. maybe that's why, my work server wont except them! I will post the pictures of the propane conversion tonight but they mite be large also. Thanks again Friends Jerry, when you take the picture with the camera, reduce the quality of the take, 1024 (PC screen) or 640 (Normal) resolutions. This formats will take care of the problem if you can NOT reduce them.
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 19, 2010 14:09:37 GMT -5
I like the idea of the LP/CNG conversion, I would like to adopt it.
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 19, 2010 14:08:28 GMT -5
i HAVE TRIED INSERT HTTP IN BETWEEN THE INSERT image ICON, DOES NOT WORK TRIED BEFORE AND AFTER the icon,DOES NOT WORK. I tried insert just pictures doe not work. profile.imageshack.us/user/pulso57/ this is the site WHAT AM I DOING WRONG?i am not computer illiterate,just doe not work Help Jerry I took the freedom to post a picture for you Below is the way to insert a image in your post }I took the freedom to post a picture for you Below is the way to insert a image in your post [ img]http://a.imageshack.us/img18/6417/d[/img ] taking in consideration that the beginning and end bracket do NOT require an extra space in their statement. You will have to reduce a little bit the pictures, are over sized for this board. EDIT: removed photo link upon owner request
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 19, 2010 13:54:17 GMT -5
The other thing is, I doubt I will break even when I decide to sell it. That will never happen, this is a work of love for the thing an a LOT of patience!!!
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 14, 2010 15:57:45 GMT -5
I installed a 3" channel frame from JC Whitney, I think it was an EMPI brand. Installation of it is not very complex once you have the fiberglass body loose from any fastener/bolt. You need to elevate the body no more than 5" from the chassis for the installation of an additional rubber gasket and the 4 pieces of the 3" Kit frame. I found that 3" is to much lift in between chassis/body. I would like to see a kit with 1 3/4" or 2" total hight. But that is just me. I do not regret the investment nor the work involved with it. By the way, I'm 6' tall.
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 12, 2010 11:44:33 GMT -5
the pictures need to be hosted in a server like "photobucket" and then insert the short cut in between the post.
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 11, 2010 12:40:40 GMT -5
30 and 32 I do in my GT II on 195/65/15 front and 205/70/15 rear
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 11, 2010 12:39:15 GMT -5
mail sent.
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Post by mrbigh on Aug 11, 2010 8:58:13 GMT -5
Welcome to the Bradley website group. You have a nice looking GT; congratulations on your trade.
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 28, 2010 21:03:18 GMT -5
anyone looking for fiberglass stuf, I have been dealing with fibreglast their web site fibreglast.com get on the mailing list and they send you specials ect.. also they carry this awesome carbon fiber look fiberglass but its hella cheaper than the real stuff,and it isnt cheasy like parts that are painted carbonLOOK.... Very interesting products, thank you for the link
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 24, 2010 21:46:26 GMT -5
It sounds like you may be dealing with the "infamous butt sag" that happens to the GTII. I understand it affects the door openings. Do a search for "butt sag" and I think you'll come up with a thread or two on the symptoms and fixes. I think there have been some threads on this since we moved to this board. Regards, Wyn has a nice drawings of his approach to the "But Sag" GT-II illness. I'm most sure he will chime-up.
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 19, 2010 8:35:15 GMT -5
What are the chances you'll sell those windshield retrofits?? BTW Incredible work! He had made molds in order to make extra retrofit frames for sale.
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 17, 2010 8:14:59 GMT -5
Horacio, Excellent pic's and info. Thank you. What is your opinion of getting an actuator with more force and eliminating the torsion spring? Tony O. It will work but I took the approach of using the spring, it was there and made the open /close operation kind of effortless. I'm seeing that " leslamcke" bought a heavy duty one. Lets here from him
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 16, 2010 12:47:09 GMT -5
Yes pics would be sweet, i may consider it even though my current set up works fine I created a new thread upon your request, not to hickjack this one Horacio
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 16, 2010 12:44:58 GMT -5
Upon some members request, I'm posting some rescued pictures I took while I installed the electric actuator replacing the defunct whipper motor set-up for the headlight mechanism. -I removed all limit switches assembly. -Removed the motor assembly. -Reused one L shaped bracket for the actuator rear support. -Reused part of the original wiring ( modified connections) for the actuator operation, extension and/or retraction. -4", 12 VDC actuator was this one from Firgelli automation. This device has internal NON adjustable limit switches. Once the shaft reach their ends (up/down) will stop automatically. -I use a two positions rocker switch to manually open and close the headlights and stop anywhere in between. I hope that this pictures will help others in their future mods...
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 15, 2010 21:56:57 GMT -5
It wasn't completely done in those pics. It was a GT....although I did build a GTII. Headlight motor was fried so I picked up a new one from a large panel truck (like a UPS truck). It was a wiper motor. It is woefully inadequate for the job. My Aztec 7 will use a linear actuator for the motor. I highly suggest you consider one as well. I concur with jspbtown, an electrical linear actuator is the way to go for the GTII headlight assembly. I used one and it is easy to do. I can provide photos to the interested ones.
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Post by mrbigh on Jul 15, 2010 11:40:38 GMT -5
Look at the fuse box. Old style ceramic fuses. Look how the wires attach...they are held in by screws! terrible...terrible...terrible. Yeah...I am a fanatic about wiring. After rebuilding 10 kits I found that the most universally poorly done part is the wiring . And there is no reason for it. it takes less skill than bodywork or mechanical work. It just takes time, and a desire to be neat. Well said
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