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Post by centralvalleygter on Dec 21, 2011 16:34:21 GMT -5
whcgt, I am confused. I do not think I have ever seen anyone accuse jspbtown of that you have accused him of. It appears you react out of your own insecurities. I have seen his responses as just informational comments at least until you start striking out. This is a forum where people add by expressing their views, even if they differ from our own. There have not been personal affronts until you start. Sincerely...
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Post by centralvalleygter on Dec 1, 2011 11:59:55 GMT -5
Funny, how different people have different experiences with cars. My brother is definately a Chevy fan (partly because is broader availability of performance enhancing parts for less money), but I have had great success with Fords (put more than 250,000 miles on three different vehicles without major problems). However, have had a bit more trouble with my current Ranger pickup (rear axle bearings 2x - warranty repaired & previously mentioned ignition switch problem - not under warranty). Warmest....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 29, 2011 18:02:47 GMT -5
Skip20's suggestion is probably the most economical, but you can but three point aftermarket ones with retractors for about $70 each, less than $30 each without retractors. The tough thing is finding a place to mount the shoulder strap, if you do not have a roll bar to connect it to. Warmest...
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 28, 2011 15:43:14 GMT -5
I agree with guamie, one of the main reasons I have two ACVW vehicles is that I know I will always be able to find parts to repair it, people to work on it, etc. I want pre-1975 cars to avoid dealing with smogging issues and to be able to fix it myself (ignition switch went bad in my late model vehicle with a computer chip key just as we were leaving on a vacation trip and was impossible to bypass-delaying trip, and cost about $500 to repair). It just reminded me why I like ACVW. Warmest....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 27, 2011 13:06:55 GMT -5
Bob, Really am sorry to hear that you are going to have to sell. Really enjoyed seeing your innovation and work. Your web site communicated the story well. Wish you well in you future endeavers. Warmest Regards....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 25, 2011 19:56:41 GMT -5
It is one of the corollaries of Murphy's Law.
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 13, 2011 20:14:42 GMT -5
Yes, there is a trick to getting into a GT 1. I asked this on the old board when I first got mine (under "how do you mount your steed") and after some rather humorous responses one member did a fantastic job of describing the process step by step. Once he did, a good number shared that that they did it the same way, but they did not know how to clearly describe the process.
I will not attempt to give you the step by step process that I received but I think you can figure it out with the following hints: 1.) Put your right foot inside on the floorboard 2.) Your right arm rests on the top and your left hand is place under you "rear end" on the side panel. 3.) You raise up and swing your left foot in and place it on the floor and then move your suspended "rear end" over the seat and slide down into it.
To get out, use your leg muscles and arms to raise yourself (slide up the back of the seat) to the highest position can and reverse the process. Hope this helps.
Warmest Regards,
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 11, 2011 23:47:06 GMT -5
I have to admit to being confused about what whcgt has written about jsbtown. While there have been people who posted here that were critical of others, I have not ever felt that jsbtown's posts came accross that way. He has not directed comments at anyone - he has just stated general conclusions drawn after many years of observation while being involved in the kit car world. I must say I find whcgt's posts much more offensive in comparison. Regards....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 4, 2011 14:02:46 GMT -5
The following link takes you to a supplier of hinges that are at least very close to the orignial ones. I have bought and used a a couple of sets and have been quite satisfied. www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=S3824-1Hope this helps...Warmest Regards
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Post by centralvalleygter on Nov 1, 2011 13:22:03 GMT -5
Not all insurance companies are willing to deal with kit cars. I use State Farm and it seems that a previous survey on this board found that State Farm was the most common carrier because of their willingness to cover kit cars. I only have PLPD on mine, so value is not an issue. Grundy will insure specialty cars and will work with the owner to establish an agreed to value (they are not overly tied to the true market value). Regards.....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Oct 29, 2011 17:18:52 GMT -5
Just sharing my enthusiasm. A few weeks the electric fuel pump on my Bradley went out. Replaced it with one I had on hand and everything was fine for a few days, but then it quit and had to tow it home. Each weekend I only had time to check one thing, so started a list. fuel pump - check coil - check carburetors (put in rebuild kit) - check Electronic Ignition - no go. Seem my Pertronix points replacement module went out. Guess it had a right to since it had been in the engine since like 1985. Recently obtained a Pertronix distributor assembly for the bus (currently using vacuum advance with points), so I put it in the Bradley & it fired right up. Idles well and runs well on top, but got a hesitation in the transition - Kadrons carbs are sensitive to advance, so still have to tweak it. Jazzed to get to drive it a bit before the rain sets in. Regards.....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Oct 22, 2011 13:10:23 GMT -5
The original windshields used a generic gasket, which unfortunately is no longer being made. I found a Cal-look VW windshield gasket that has nearly the same x-section, but of course was not long enough.
I actually had to extend the bottom lip (my first FG experience) for mine to fit right (it kept coming out at the bottom).
I have heard that the windshield can be installed in a bed of urethane without a gasket, but have not personally done it.
Warmest Regards....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Sept 24, 2011 10:51:06 GMT -5
On this message board, you can not attach or upload pictures like Facebook, etc. You must have them stored on a server somewhere (like photo bucket) and then put the address to the pic in between img tags (which will be automatically provided if you click the picture icon). Following is an example: web address to your picture here! [/img ] Note I added an extra space inside the image tag brackets, so the computer would not think I was trying to actually show an image. Hope this helps....Warmest Regards.....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Sept 18, 2011 16:45:04 GMT -5
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Post by centralvalleygter on Sept 15, 2011 10:48:20 GMT -5
Drum brakes work as well as disc, the first couple of times they are applied in a given time period. The reason disc brakes are consider superior is that the stay cooler during repeated braking and thus you have less brake fade during repeated hard cornering.
Seems like I read somewhere that 70%+ of a cars stopping power comes from the front brakes, so it is more important to have the better braking system at the front.
Regards.....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Sept 7, 2011 10:43:09 GMT -5
I used a Corvette luggage rack. Warmest...
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Post by centralvalleygter on Sept 7, 2011 10:30:27 GMT -5
My thought exactly jslande01. Make sure the engine will turn over (with wrench or pushing the car and letting out the while in gear). Warmest,
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Post by centralvalleygter on Sept 5, 2011 0:59:07 GMT -5
To date, as far as is known, they were custom made for the GTII and now rare as hen's teeth. Do a search for them on this board and you may find a couple of people that have them, but shipping is also an issue. Warmest....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Sept 4, 2011 0:47:16 GMT -5
Same old problem. You can do anything with enough time and money. But the real answer to your question is no. Super beetles had the top part of the suspension system attached to the body, so when you remove the body to put on the GTII body, you have removed half the suspension system. The fiberglass body is not equiped for mounting the upper part of the system, nor is it strong enought to support it. So, you would have to find a way to fabricate a framework that does not interfere with the body, or cut off the front end and weld a standard front end on. Cheaper and easier to find a standard chassis. Warmest Regards...
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Post by centralvalleygter on Sept 1, 2011 11:42:52 GMT -5
Additionally, as jspbtown noted in another thread, having valves that are too-tight can also make it so it will not start hot. When I first got my VW bus (before checking out the engine), it had this problem. However, if this is the case you will ususally notice that it seems to be turnning over easier/faster when hot (because the open valves are not allowing compression to build up). Adjusting the valves solved the problem completely. Regards....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 31, 2011 14:53:32 GMT -5
Yea, I had a stock intake on that engine (since I built it to sale). The Weber carb is better (higher performance and better fuel economy) if it is working right. If you are going the keep the engine, I would be hesitant to abandon it quickly. You could probably pick up the intake manifold from a salvage yard cheaper, but you can order them from JC Whitney, etc.
Regards..
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 31, 2011 10:36:43 GMT -5
Bob, Glad to see you working on it again. Rear window is looking good.
The last time I rebuilt an engine to put in my BAHA, I had the same problem. After trying a lot of things, finally gave in and bought a $140 Bazilian carb. Solved the problem.
Warmest Regards....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 31, 2011 10:32:43 GMT -5
Sometimes just slightly retarding the timing will help. Advance timing makes for a great running engine (higher r's), but sometimes makes starting difficult. If the advance is not functioning right it could be set too far forward to make it run best at the mid to top of the rpm range.
Just a thought.... Regards
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 29, 2011 0:04:18 GMT -5
You do not upload pictures to this message board server like you do facebook photos. They must be hosted on another server and then the link provided on here. Photobucket is a common picture host server used by many of the members.
To post the picture you then simply press the picture icon in the tag menu (4th one over, second row) and then put the url (address to the picture - you may cut and paste it) between the "img" tags.
[ img ]address goes here [ /img ]
I put extra spaces in the tags so the computer would not think I was posting a picture.
The best solution for the manual is to buy Jeff Troy's CD. He put scans of the manual on it. But, you will also get a lot of extra pictures and how-to info as well.
Warmest Regards...
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 27, 2011 18:44:11 GMT -5
I like it! It looks kinda familiar, is it Dodge Charger Green, by chance? lol Warmest....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 27, 2011 16:21:33 GMT -5
The following link takes you to a supplier of hinges that are at least very close to the orignial ones. I have bought and used a a couple of sets and have been quite satisfied. www.bosunsupplies.com/products2.cfm?product=S3824-1Hope this helps...Warmest Regards
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 26, 2011 13:09:14 GMT -5
The great thing about ACVW engines is they are very flexible and relatively economical to build. All the parts (or aftermarket replacements) are readily available. It is pretty easy to build a motor that is dependable that generates 150 to 175 hp. If you choose the turbo route, you can get that with a relatively stock motor (need stiffer than stock valve springs), bigger carb, and obviously a different exhaust system. You just adjust the psi for the power you want (staying in the above noted hp range - more requires stronger bottom end parts). If you go the normally aisperated method, it will take changes throughout the engine (more bore, stroke, cam, heads, dual carbs, etc.). My brother gets more than 350hp out of his buggy engine (obviously it has a turbo - but also fuel injection, cam, increased bore, stroke, heavier duty bearings, etc.), but maintenance definitely goes up - not only on the motor, but also the tranny, etc. There are places you can buy whatever motor you want pre-built. I am partial to Bernie Berman's due to the high performance fan/Alternator Porshe-like fan shrouds he uses. Depending on desired power & features pre-builts run from $2800 to $7000+ However, as said above these cars are light, so little hp increases result in great accelleration gains.
A 6 cylinder Corvair or Porsche can be hung on the back, but these cars are already rear-end heavy and you loose the economical and available parts advantage. A V-8 on the back would result in a permanent "Wheelie". As stated above, mid-engine or front engine is custom everything. V-8 in front would be difficult because of the limited depth and height of front end. Have to raise the body or really change the shape of "hood" area.
Make the first one as it was designed and while you are driving it, find Bradley body to put over a custom fabricated chassis, if you still have the bug to build a "wild one".
Just my input.... Warmest Regards
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 25, 2011 10:07:37 GMT -5
Welcome aboard, looking forward to the pics. Warmest Regards.....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 22, 2011 14:35:11 GMT -5
I too have this shifter. I got it because it was the shortest and was angled back enough to miss my extended dash board (my shifter and e-brake has NOT been moved back). I too love it, good solid, but short pattern. I have no problems finding reverse. However, I have found just minute position changes when bolting the shifter does makes a great deal of difference on the operation of the shifter. Warmest.....
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 21, 2011 22:42:03 GMT -5
As I have mentioned a few time in my posts, my Bradley is my daily driver at least 9 months of the year. As such i am wearing it out faster than restoring it. One of these days, I'll do some extensive restoration work again.
Yesterday, about half way to my destination a short distance away my Bradley went Waaaaaaaa. Like it ran out of gas. Well actually it did run out of gas. While at first I thought I might have accidentally turned off my emergency electric fuel pump switch, that did not turn out to be the case. A little investigating determined that the EFP simply burned out. Hoofed it home, located a spare pump (I use the universal solid-state type & try to keep an extra handy). Got is installed. Started right up and made several more errands without incident. Life is good again.
However...., today I jumped in the Bradley to get take-out for dinner (after I washed the engine to try to chase down the source of a small, but persistent oil leak), and again got about half-way and Waaaaaa again. This time it wasn't the fuel pump. Sometimes I have had it not start for a few minutes after I wash the engine, but letting it set 15 minutes or so will usually result in successful ignition. No such luck this time. After having my wife tow me home (which she hates to do, doesn't like the slack-tensioning that invariably happens). I did get it started, at least on two cylinders. Don't know yet, but I suspect my problem is a combo of wet electrics and getting something in the fuel line during my roadside repair that has blocked a carb jet.
Guess I'll be driving the VW bus until I get a chance to pull the engine, check the carbs and fix the oil leak (appears to be coming from top, beneath the shroud).
Maybe, I'll install a top center fuel spout while I am at it, so half my life is not spent at service stations nursing gas into the side spout.
My Bradley saga will continue, but will definitely have a short hiatus as we just started school again and I am the newly appointed Chief Administrator, so I don't know when I will have time to get to it (and talk my brother into helping me, as he is much more the engine expert than I).
Until next time.....
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