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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 27, 2011 12:12:15 GMT -5
you might need to build up the dash too.
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 18, 2011 0:53:36 GMT -5
i was in NAPA and they had a rack of close-out seat covers, and i got 2 of them for $15, and they seem to work, just put enough foam under them....
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 14, 2011 2:11:27 GMT -5
i need some too, or at least a font to get some made...
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 13, 2011 16:36:00 GMT -5
good for you!
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 12, 2011 23:19:34 GMT -5
a Bradley GT1? they use a 1963-67 corvette windshield.
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 12, 2011 12:26:11 GMT -5
How about a mental health evaluation. I' don't know how many times people have told me I must be crazy to build my own car. Then they say I'm insane for driving it daily. Of course the last car I built was a 1934 Hupmobile hotrod. hehehhehehe i like that one........
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 11, 2011 23:58:17 GMT -5
Get a can of Fix-a-Flat and a good prayer book. Warmest... i sat 2 cans of fix a flat. 1 for the tire, and if that dont work, one for the deflated spare that i will put in that box im gonna build.....oh and you forgot the crash helmet, and the flame retardant suit...
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 11, 2011 11:09:23 GMT -5
i want one!!!
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 10, 2011 17:24:33 GMT -5
Bradley GT License plate frames? Or how about a Bradley boat, Surfer GT?? could be more than a few dollars though. i like the idea of a Bradley boat....i know very little about them, do you know what kinda moter they used? etc...
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 9, 2011 22:53:39 GMT -5
i had the same problem but on the top, so i got out my 3 ft beaker bar and torqued it until the top of the shock bolt broke off....but you cant do that......so i say WD-40, and a torch in turns. (and a hammer)
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 8, 2011 23:35:23 GMT -5
The cooling intake for the engine is on the rear of the fan shroud. There is very little room for any kind of ducting to channel air from outside the body due to the proximity of the fuel tank to the fan opening. Cooler air is pulled from underneath the body. At least the intake is always in the shade and ahead of the exhaust. yeah but i will have a vent out of the body to release air presser when you have the back window on and the vents open, and that will be in the right place....
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 8, 2011 23:31:28 GMT -5
you can make the aluminum look pretty good with a drill press and a wood dowl rod. don't have to "turn"it. i might try that.......
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 8, 2011 23:23:03 GMT -5
Aset of bradley valve covers? i just painted it in big letters on the inside of my engine compartment. but good!
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 8, 2011 23:13:11 GMT -5
A compact tool kit with room for a flashlight, spare set of points and a spare gen belt. good idea! i have my used points and gen belt! (they wer still good) i might make one up.
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 8, 2011 22:47:44 GMT -5
hi, its my birthday next week, and i just wondered if you guys had any suggestions of something cheap that adds horsepower, or cools the engine, or kills 99.9% of household germs, or whatever, that i can ask my family for. thanks
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 8, 2011 21:20:23 GMT -5
How about running an intake to the outside of the car for cool air to be used by the engine fan? i can run a bit of tubing down to the scoop...
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 6, 2011 0:08:11 GMT -5
well i have the old "tower" cooler and it looks like the meatle on it had gotten REALLY HOT!!!! like exhaust pipe hot, its all flakey, and discolored like that, so that's why i thot i might need an external one.
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 5, 2011 14:01:07 GMT -5
so is it better to keep the stock cooler? or put in a transmission oil cooler?
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 4, 2011 23:49:20 GMT -5
You do have all the original air cooling tin, I hope. Sealing the top of the engine from the bottom as the original Bug did is important. I can explain why if you like. A good investment is to convert the engine to a full-flow oil system. It's not that hard to do. Then you can run an external oil cooler and filter with no problem. On mine I have the larger Setrab brand cooler with thermostat controlled fan. yeah, i removed it for a bit but yeah...how do you mean Sealing the top of the engine from the bottom? i just got an old oil cooler and thot it would be better than the stock one.
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 4, 2011 23:45:14 GMT -5
Why? ? Race inspired cars had no wood. You should use engine turned aluminum or something. thanks! oh i for got to say, but im putting ceder wood on the dash and inside of the roof. yeah but im 14 and have a hard time getting jobs, and engine turned aluminum cost money, and this ceder was free. and i like it.
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Post by spyderdriver on Jan 4, 2011 23:43:16 GMT -5
Nice to see the pictures. Be careful, it looks like the P.O. may have used a transmission cooler instead of an (engine) oil cooler. The difference is that engine oil coolers flow more volume and have larger diameters on their connections. yes it is a transmission oil cooler. is the anything wrong with that?
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Post by spyderdriver on Dec 26, 2010 11:23:13 GMT -5
this one has nothing to do with Bradley's, VW's, or fiberglass. i have a good friend whose parents had a storage yard, and a few years ago sed parents died, so my friend got this storage yard. and shes trying to sell it now, and she asked everyone to take their stuff away. but some didn't want to pay their fees, and she had to lien sale some stuff, but she wanted to sell this place and get it off her hands. and she had something i was very interested in.... a 1960 jaguar mark 2, with all the trim (and no rust) and the wire original wheels! and now for the best part, i got it only 500$!!!! it has the 3.8 liter straight 6 with 220 BHP, and the automatic, 4 wheel disk brakes and cruse control. leather interior with rat nest trim. and in the back you get TV trays! it has rear wind-wings wire wheels and a chrome jaguar. well, what ya think?
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Post by spyderdriver on Dec 26, 2010 2:57:05 GMT -5
i would just build up the fiberglass seats and smooth off the inside of the seats and then, drill them. not to many holes, and make shur whats left is strong, and then insert some aluminum tubing to in the drilled holes to make it look cool. and maybe if you have seat covers, flare the tubing on one side, and cut holes in the cover and punch em thru kinda like this. www.nzmustang.com/NewMustangs/Gt40-4.JPG
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Post by spyderdriver on Dec 26, 2010 2:37:43 GMT -5
i will!
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Post by spyderdriver on Dec 25, 2010 23:39:49 GMT -5
thanks! oh i for got to say, but im putting ceder wood on the dash and inside of the roof.
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Post by spyderdriver on Dec 25, 2010 12:39:05 GMT -5
thank you very much! i glad of your support, and will continue post pics until its finished!
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Post by spyderdriver on Dec 25, 2010 1:21:06 GMT -5
UPDATE! anyway, i have not done alot to it... my dad had a stroke and almost died. and now its like 90 out and i don't want to work on it when its that hot. but soon it will cool down. i have about 20-30 hrs of body work to do, and then its time to paint....i swear. i hope to have it put back together soon after, i want to drive it this October. thank all you guys for your support and help with her little foibles, tanks again! anyway more photos soon, and i have some new ideas on how i want to do some things to her. thank you some more, Darwin. I've had my GT for a year and a half now. i got it for 1500$ from a poor guy who was not very happy about selling his baby. it has the 1300cc, its all torn apart so i could make sure its in tip-top shape, but it all was rebuilt before i got it so it runs well and has good compression. it was a 6 volt , but i got a new 12 volt alternator for it. i have it spread allover the yard right now getting it ready for the paint. gulf blue and orange, with racing number and decals. i think it will look great! ;D i just hate the crappy black that the last guy sprayed it. SO im sanding it back to the original silver gellcoat. the floorpan was kinda weak when i got the body off it, so i welded up a frame to sit between it and the body (and replace the slightly wormy wood it had,) out of 1" square tubing, and it ads alot of stiffness witch is good! then i hurculined the entire thing. THE FIBERGLASS WORK i doing a complete frame off on it so it looks like hell, but you can see that already. i worked a lot on the underside in front and under the dash, building it up where the center spine meets the firewall and where the firewall meets the body skin in general to keep the front from flexing and cracking the body skin, i used 1.5 gals of fiberglass resin and about 30 square feet of mat and like 20 of cloth, plus some sheet-metal bolted on top with strips welded on for reinforcement. i added a bump on the dash so i could get the original spedo in. the speedometer with my new "carbon fiber" mirrors. i rounded off the inside of the front wheel arch to improve the under car airflow. im in the process of cutting open the boxes in the sides and building them up from the inside with plywood reinforcements to add strength. i put in 2 little scoops on the bottom of the door boxes to funnel air up and in to the engine compartment. i also cut 2 little square holes in the rear engine cover to let the air blow out past my oil cooler, and to help it out while siting still i put in 4 CPU fans, 2 with red LED's in them. (i now will have 6 taillights) all 4 fans together will move 109 cubic feet of air per minuet. i also made 2 little covers to go on the bottom of the taillight box to keep them from caching air and acting like a brake. i had to repair alot of air bubbles in the fiberglass just under the gellcoat, i had em in the dash, the seats, and in the rear fin. and other than that just hour upon hour of sanding ....its getting depressing, but i hope to be done with it by mid January/early February. i have some plans to make a second top that's easily changed for when you want a roadster, but im not shru about that one yet. anyway feedback makes me happy, i want to know what you think!
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Post by spyderdriver on Dec 21, 2010 20:26:49 GMT -5
I saw a GT I at a car show a few years ago that had the roof cut off just behind the windshield. I asked the owner about windshield flexing and breaking. He said that he had no issues with flexing or cracking. He had run 1" square steel tube down through the side supports of the windshield frame and welded them to the floor then ran another piece between the 2 side supports and welded that. Then he glassed over that and shaped it. It looked good, but without the roof the car didn't look right. yeah i know, but i think if you change the windshield entirety it could look very nice.
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Post by spyderdriver on Dec 21, 2010 16:50:38 GMT -5
no no, its in own top, ill mold a new one to play with.
and yes i plexi will be ruined just driving to the store and back, i think you can get flat safety glass that's road legal, and it you do a split window with 2 or 3 sections of glass you can still curve it enough.
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Post by spyderdriver on Dec 21, 2010 14:47:17 GMT -5
yeah i will have the stock top with the vette windshield in it (i know some who can get it for 150$ installed) but i want to make another window so i can have a more convertible experience, like on a 40s race car.
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