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Post by killswitch0201 on Sept 12, 2011 18:23:30 GMT -5
Im thinking about cutting the top of my Bradley GT. Anyone have some pictures that I can see? It poses literally no use to me. I realize the windshield most likely has to be reinforced, but in what way? Possibly molding the bottom of the windshield in?
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 12, 2011 21:43:55 GMT -5
You will need to do more than just molding it in. You will need to run steel up and around it.
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Post by Jeff Lande on Sept 13, 2011 7:01:53 GMT -5
I've briefly considered doing the same with my GT II, I think because of the reinforcing issues I will probably not do it and will probably just cut the doors in half and have the bottoms swing like normal doors. Then after a bit, maybe make some plexi top halfs like the original GT.
After making and installing a butt-sag support and lots and lots of wrangling, my doors still don't fit right, and it bugs the crap out of me. The wife saw a picture on the web of one where someone made a roadster and thought I should try it, but I think making it more like a GT will be less complicated.
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Post by Charles Thomas on Sept 13, 2011 14:42:56 GMT -5
In addition to reinforcing the windshield… The sides will want to either pull out, or sag in without the top to hold them firmly at the right distance apart. You will need to restructure the pan/frame, or add a crossbar. It may take time to sag, and it may not sag sitting still, but when you put the additional force of the wind, the engine torques, and the driver's weight into the equation none of the preexisting work will hold. Fiberglass has always been one of my favorite mediums to work with, but without a good frame or support bars, it will not hold its own weight under load. The Bradley GT would be an awesome car topless, and I have seen one other done that way (I will go look for pictures, I may not have any), but it becomes quite a project.
IMO – best bet to reinforce the windshield would be to bring the supports all the way down and tie them into the chassis beneath, preferably into whatever work you do to strengthen the sub frame of the pans. While you are there, add crossbars to the pan section, and run the frame up inside the side panels and a bar across behind the seats to keep the sides straight. In time, I will be doing that to my GT in order to have some impact protection, and allow the top to be removed at will.
-Charles
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Post by smyrnaguy on Sept 13, 2011 16:50:31 GMT -5
If you remove the top it will become a fair weather only car. You will have to garage it or the pans and interior will rot quickly. I can envision no convertible top that would allow entry and fit the lines of the car. A tonneau cover might be an option but they never last more than a year or two.
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Post by horen2tas on Sept 13, 2011 18:10:49 GMT -5
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Post by Jeff Lande on Sept 13, 2011 19:23:17 GMT -5
That is exactly what I intend to do... with the future addition of GT style removable plexi top half doors.
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Post by rebel67 on Sept 13, 2011 20:09:35 GMT -5
If Im not mistaken, arnt these pics of a GT II? Not a problem, and quite attractive, but if your taking the roof off a oney I have a good suggestion. remove the windshield, do any re-enforcing and frame work, then have the windshield re-installed with urethane sealer. When dried it will add structural stability to the frame. And, if done right, will eliminate the need for windshield trim. I will post pics of mine as soon as I figure out how to get them on here. Computers and I arent on "same languedge" terms right now. As far as re-enforcing the sides,Im installing a bar from the pan up to the highth of the sides then across to the other side. I can attatch anchors to the side walls that will keep it from sagging out. Also gives me a mounting spot for the shoulder harnesses. All will be hidden when I design a wall to section off the big, seatless area that doesnt have a use in an open car. But with a lid hinged over it, desguised as a convertable boot, I will have a secured storage area. My shop is finally all set up, so I will work on progress pics soon. Didnt mean to take over a post, so Ill apologize and move on..... Any questions about the topless work, E-mail me and I will try to help! Mike @ stark42366@yahoo.com
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Post by cocacoladodge on Sept 14, 2011 23:17:12 GMT -5
one of the guys i talked to at a car show did smething like this, but he is lousy at fiber glassing. here is what he did. he pulled the windshield, back window, and wings off his GT and then unbolted/screwed the top unit and took that to a boat shop. there they used that to make a template to make a free standing windshield unit. theu used 1/4 in tubing and made a couple brackets for it to slide into when placed on the can and is held in by i pins on each side. Now here is the nice thing about doing it this way, he still has the original top unit so if there is a chance he might have to keep it outside in rain, he switches units (takes him about 15 minutes and about 10 more to put his spare windshield in place (the other stays inset in new unit) so in about 1/2 hr he can have a stock looking gt into a convertable. he won some prize at the car show for doing that... good luck, measure 4 times, and mock up before cutting. bob
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Post by ekanfield on Sept 28, 2011 13:48:18 GMT -5
this is how i did mine Attachments:
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Post by Jeff Lande on Sept 28, 2011 16:33:12 GMT -5
Here's one that did the half doors and kept the top sort of open So what do you suppose they used for hinges on the doors? Anyone try this yet?
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Post by dawgdk on Sept 28, 2011 20:30:03 GMT -5
these doors are fiberglassed shut!! Mine was something similar but someone cut the back part off for some reason or the other.
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Post by Jeff Lande on Sept 28, 2011 21:48:44 GMT -5
I agree :/
I'm gonna run down to the local woodworkers store and pick up a couple Sass hinges... they look like they might just work.
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Post by Wyn on Sept 29, 2011 11:10:31 GMT -5
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Post by Jeff Lande on Sept 29, 2011 14:31:00 GMT -5
funny you should say that... I was looking at maybe screwing a stainless regular hinge to a stainless pivot hinge recessed into the door, then using a very light duty gas spring to push it up.
the door is so light that those kits made for regular cars would be just way too much (not to mention expensive).
Stay tuned, I think this might be really fairly easy...
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Post by bobevans on Sept 29, 2011 16:17:19 GMT -5
I would be interested in how you do it....I had cut my doors 2 years ago...tried every type of hinge mech I could find...the way the doors are set into the body and their shape and proximity to the windshield would not allow for lambo type doors...I even tried a drop down concept, but it was not practical...Glassing them in seemed to be the best solution.. I finally sold the whole mess and bought another GT2 with top and doors...I still have the old cut top and windshield frame and door tops..if anyone is interested.. ;D ;D bobevans
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Post by Jeff Lande on Sept 29, 2011 16:34:10 GMT -5
I'll take pictures for sure...
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Sept 29, 2011 16:42:34 GMT -5
Also most lambo kits only push the door out about 5 inches and they go up on a 45 to 60 deg angle. When done on a "normal" car they do not lift high enough to be out of the way. On my gt2 it is hard enough to get in with the gull wings as I am 6'3" 300 lbs. A forward hinged door would be worse. Now a suicide door would be out of the way.
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Post by dawgdk on Sept 29, 2011 18:38:37 GMT -5
What would be wrong with using a single hood type spring hinge at an angle. It would have to be a small hinge and the spring would have to be for a light weight because the door only weighs like 7 or 8 pounds cut down without the windows !!
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Post by Jeff Lande on Sept 29, 2011 19:28:12 GMT -5
its gotta come out a little before you swing it up. We'll see if I can get it far enough out of the way with a simple combination of hinges... without having to custom make something like the guys with big heavy metal doors have to deal with.
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Post by Jeff Lande on Oct 2, 2011 17:41:05 GMT -5
crap, Rockler doesn't stock all their hinges at the store. Gotta order on-line.
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