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Post by cycleman74 on Sept 2, 2011 16:32:37 GMT -5
Been reading just about ALL the posts on the forum have came to the conclusion of doing the one inch body lift on my newest GT ll. Which has brought some questions (so where's the BEST place to ASK? HERE of course)
As looking over the body sitting on the pan I notice the body touching the front of the pan and the rear of the pan, but a gap on both sides underneath the doors. Is this the proverbial butt sag? Jacked up the rear to take pressure from the middle but gap still exists. NOTE body has NEVER been attached. Any thoughts?
On the question of the body lift am assuming using 1 inch square tubing along the sides and bending the tubing for the front and the rear to match the original contour. Are the guys that have already done
the lift using a gasket or just sealer between the tubing and the fiberglass body? THANKS FOR ANY INSIGHT THAT YOU HAVE!!!
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Post by Wyn on Sept 2, 2011 21:49:11 GMT -5
Cycleman I used the 1" square tubing lift. I did that because the standard GT2 seat will not go any lower because of the extra wide lip on one side. So if you are going to use the standard GT2 seat it does no good to lower the pan. If you use a narrower seat, Yes now you can lower the pan. Setting the body on the chassis, yes the pans will sag but it is not the butt sag problem. See if the body is straight by sighting down the mold seam on each side. I sanded mine off. The the major butt sag is the rear end sagging allowing the rear window and roof to pull on the windshield distorting the roof and doors. When it get really bad it will bend the body through the door opening. Any frame work will help stiffen that problem. A 1" lift frame or a 1.5" angle iron under the pans edge. As for the mounting seal, I used the VW seal on the bottom side and a 1" foam seal on the top side of the lift frame. The foward firewall lift frame needs to be cut down as the body will not seat properly. All the parts were cut and welded to shape except the forward firewall. I took a 1” piece to Tubular Techniques in Columbus along with a plywood template, and had them bend it. But there is a problem the downward sides of the tubing needed to ¾” thick instead of 1”, so I used the air grinder and cut a ¼” section out of the sides used Rob Stones sledge-a-matic ;D and beat it closed and welded. The rear firewall is just 1” tubing cut and welded to shape.     Wyn |
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Post by cycleman74 on Sept 2, 2011 22:28:29 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 2, 2011 22:50:45 GMT -5
They will likely be too tall and too wide.
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Post by mwilson on Sept 3, 2011 21:43:41 GMT -5
jspbtown, I hate to debate this with you since I'm pretty much a newbie, and I really appreciate the advice you've given me but I managed to get my Bradley GT II Seats to work. Granted I had to toss out the adjuster rails and cut an inch off one of the sides but they do work. Using your idea, I added a strip pf metal to secure the L brackets. 3.bp.blogspot.com/-HLgWYSh10a8/Tl7ZsLZkrzI/AAAAAAAAASY/DiZrrGxH-ZM/s1600/HPIM0937.JPGGranted, I have a skinny butt but with the 3 inch lift I put in, I now have plenty of headroom. Thanks, |
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Post by jspbtown on Sept 3, 2011 22:00:20 GMT -5
Your using the stock seats right? I think they are perfect.
The poster said he was going to use "Ricardo" seats. I assume he meant Recaro...and those will likely be too tall and too wide. And if they fit width wise they will have to be reclined at such a silly angle they will be very uncomfortable.
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Post by mwilson on Sept 3, 2011 22:04:41 GMT -5
Agreed. I must have misread the post. Sorry.
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