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Post by mwilson on Aug 22, 2011 13:41:22 GMT -5
I bought and installed a Bugspak shifter on my Bradley GT II. This was based on the feedback I saw here and at thesamba.com. I didn't want to spend the $250 on a Berg shifter - the cadillac, and was definitely going to stay away from the EMPI - the Yugo. 3.bp.blogspot.com/-80u4n6whhnc/TlA_nRuzaRI/AAAAAAAAARo/JR360G8FroA/s1600/HPIM0909.JPG Man I love this shifter, the pattern is definitely reduced. However, finding reverse is a challenge. Granted, it was a challenge before with the OEM shifter - not too mention the fact it was painful to shift into reverse, OUCH!! Is this an indication that some of the clutch parts are worn? Thanks, |
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 22, 2011 14:00:35 GMT -5
Do you still have the plate on it? I don't think you need the plated with a reverse lock out shifter. I would also add a washer under each bolt.
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Post by centralvalleygter on Aug 22, 2011 14:35:11 GMT -5
I too have this shifter. I got it because it was the shortest and was angled back enough to miss my extended dash board (my shifter and e-brake has NOT been moved back). I too love it, good solid, but short pattern. I have no problems finding reverse. However, I have found just minute position changes when bolting the shifter does makes a great deal of difference on the operation of the shifter.
Warmest.....
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Post by smyrnaguy on Aug 22, 2011 18:48:37 GMT -5
You might need a new shift rod bushing. It makes a big difference.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 22, 2011 18:59:25 GMT -5
Jspbtown,
Yes, the plate came with it and the old was very worn. The directions said to install the new plate with the ramp to the right, find reverse, tap the plate forward slightly then tighten the bolts.
Smyrnaguy,
I'll look into the bushings.
Thanks,
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 22, 2011 20:12:58 GMT -5
Sorry to say but this is the best shifter.   cip1.com C15-80501 - SCAT DRAGFAST DUAL T-SHIFTER ANGLED 46-67 BEETLE / GHIA Phone-in/Mailorder Price US $129.95 Website Discount Price US $119.95 You save US $10.00! Comes with a boot. |
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 22, 2011 20:24:59 GMT -5
Hey Dan can you tell us what makes this the best shifter?
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 22, 2011 20:58:43 GMT -5
Ease of inst, no plate under it.
easy, natural reverse lockout.
good quality chrome. My buggies stay outside in the rain and fill up with snow, 3 years and no rust.
nice feel, tapered grip with finger grooves, nice finish
very short throw
spring loaded to natually want to go to the 3/4 side. Helps eliminate blown shifts.
durable
available in straight or angled.
perfect gate location matches the VW tranny so no need to hunt for gears.
I have had the berg the bugpack and a few other no longer made models. Of all the cars I have, some are stock, some are shortened stock, three have the scat unit while the other shifters I have tried are sitting in a box.
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Post by kitcarguy on Aug 22, 2011 21:04:48 GMT -5
Thanks for the clarification. Was asking because I am going to be changing mine out.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 23, 2011 10:16:15 GMT -5
Even though it says 46-67 this is for stock installs where VW went to a straight design. They fit all years of chassis.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 25, 2011 11:54:02 GMT -5
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 25, 2011 12:29:09 GMT -5
Yup..thats the bushing retainer ring and I think I can see some of the bushing. No fun to replace that sucker! I always replace them when rebuilding my pans while the body is off.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 25, 2011 12:32:43 GMT -5
jspbtown,
Great advice, even in hindsight. I'll keep that in mind for my next build. : )
Since I'm going to be in the thick of it, what else should I look for?
Thanks,
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Post by jspbtown on Aug 25, 2011 12:45:59 GMT -5
I would replace the connector at the tranny as well. They are cheap and not something you want to go back into after your done. Thye make some nice heavy duty ones.
Spend some time really cleaning the shift rod. Almost polish it. The extra time you spend with it out cleaning it will make putting it back so much easier.
Get a quality bushing. Some of the new China stuff is real bad.
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Post by Dan MacMillan on Aug 26, 2011 6:48:34 GMT -5
You do not have to take the rod completely out. Disc at tranny, slide rod so bushing area is visible through shifter hole, clean rod with a strip of emery cloth. Move rod further forward till it is almost clear of the bushing support then run a piece of wire under it so you can pick it up once it is clear of the bushing. Take it out of the bushing and let it rest on the bottom of the tunnel. Remove old bushing if still there. Put spring clip on new bushing, install bush. Grease bushing and end of rod. Feed rod into bush, I use big needle nose vise grips to grip the rod, twist and push. The hard part is starting the rod. When almost all the way in, grease the rod where you sanded it.
I also drill a 2" hole in the side of the tunnel about 1.25" behind the shifter hole on the pass side to aid in getting the bushing in. An alternative is an access cut under the tunnel below the bushing. Making a round hole eliminates stress on the opening. Cover with a nice plate screwed in place.
jspbtown is right about cleaning, it does make it easier to put the rod back in.
Dont forget to get a new spring clip with the bushing. spring goes in forward narrow section, support bracket goes in square cut groove near middle of bushing.
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Post by mwilson on Aug 27, 2011 10:25:33 GMT -5
Dan,
Good to know but I'm thankful I took mine out through the front. Huge amount of grime, dirt, rust on the shift rod. I used some PB Blaster and a wire brush attachment on the drill to clean it up. Nice and shiny now. Headed out the door to buy a new bushing and coupler. : )
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Post by Jeff Troy on Aug 27, 2011 14:04:04 GMT -5
No personal experience with the Bug Pack shifter, but I've been using an original Hurst trigger since the 1994-96 restoration. That's roughly 310-325 thousand miles without a single hitch - ever.
Glad to see that someone else is also having a good time with a Bradley on the road.
Warmest...
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Post by mwilson on Aug 27, 2011 22:26:43 GMT -5
If anyone is going to do this and is a virgin like me, (blushing cheeks) you need to put the bushing into the support brace first! That's the ring end toward the shifter. It just pops into place. (I wish I would've seen a visual on that.) Then slide the shift rod through the bushing.
Yes, I wasted time and blood trying to put the rod in with the bushing already on.
I just tested my new Bugspak shifter - AWESOME!!! Huge difference, I'm 99% assured of hitting reverse without pain. : )
Thanks everyone.
PS I bought an EMPI coupler and it didn't work, the two posts aren't wide enough for the shift rod to go through. At least I got to use the bushings. EMPI sucks!
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